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Posted

The correct one has a machined groove around it.

Posted

That should be the correct one! :)

Posted

Well, the drama is on me this time.  As most of you know, the OD lockout switch is vertically mounted from the bottom of the housing, so you have to figure out a way to keep the plunger in the bore and then quickly screw in the lockout switch.  Well, I thought that the plunger would stay in if I oiled it before I stuck it in.  I oiled it, stuck it in, and it seemed to hold, so I put in the switch and snugged it down.  When I checked the switch, unlike before the connection was made in both positions, which isn't any better, so I pulled the switch back out, and got hit in the forehead by the plunger. 

 

Looking at everything, here's what I figured out.  The plunger must have fallen out as soon as I tried to start the threads on the switch, and landed sideways on top of the switch.  When I tightened the switch, the sideways plunger hit the counterbore angle below the 3/8" bore.  This did two things: 1-it collapsed the end of the switch, destroying it, and 2-it kind of peened into the counterbore angle and moved some cast iron, so that the 3/8" bore is slightly smaller in a couple of places.  The bottom line: the plunger no longer fits into the bore it is supposed to fit in.  I confirmed this with my 3/8" centering punch, which fit in before but not now.  The only good news is that the plunger seems undamaged after all of this.

 

I looked in the McMaster-Carr catalog, and found an adjustable 3/8" reamer that starts out undersize and then can be expanded to a full 3/8"; hopefully I can fix it with that, once I receive it.  If it works, maybe I'll try greasing the plunger to hold it in.  Then I'll find if my old switch is still okay, since it was the new switch that I destroyed.

 

Marty, truly unhappy tonight .............

Posted

You will be laughing about this little fiasco in a year!......say yes..... I will! :D

Posted

Jeff I know this may not be much of a consolation, but, just keep in mind it cost less to screw something up yourself than paying someone to screw it up for you.. hang in there...I have all faith you will come through all this...

  • Like 1
Posted

Your working the "process of elimination"........just don't eliminate yourself!

 

Put a few minutes into my OD. The relay was popping every fuse it got so the relay was swapped out and

the fuses held. Took it for a ride and engaged the OD but................Nothing! So the wiring will be trouble shot

the selinoid will be double checked. Hopefully on Monday or Tuesday more time can be found. 

Car inhailed about 1 qt. of motor oil within the past 500 miles. No smoke on cold starts, a little bit off gear changes

and a little more as the foot goes down. Compression needs to be checked and my unprofessional guess is rings!

 

Right now the OD is getting an evaluation.

 

Hope to add to the discussion here soon.

Doc

Posted

Doctor Dirt,

 

The first thing to check is whether the actuation cable is pushing the lever on the OD all of the way back; I had to play around with the cable routing and adjustment to get it to work right.  Then check the lockout switch; it should be open when the lever is straight down, and closed when the lever is all of the way to the back.

 

I received the reamer that I ordered, just waiting until it cools down in the shop a little to go for it.  And talked to a friend of mine, who told me what I should have/will use for holding the plunger in place: Dr. Trannies Assemblee Goo.  It is a grease that is formulated to dissolve in any transmission fluid without ill affect.  He dug around in his shop and found an old container that was almost empty and gave it to me.  Maybe I have a chance ......

 

Marty

  • Like 1
Posted

Pulled the relay, no good and 6volts along with the selenoid. Ordered new ones and then we'll see what happens. All the wiring looks fresh there is no old wiring anywhere. The car was changed over to 12V in 2011-12 with other add ons installed.

Hoping the electrical problems are the main problems and the mechanics are intact.

 

Whats up Marty???? Are you at the Bar????

Posted

I found out today that I didn't think through my theory about the adjustable reamer well enough.  The hole in the casting is only about 1/2" long, and the adjustment mechanism and the pilot bottom out before the cutters reach the bore.  So I went out and bought some small diameter tapered Dremel tool grinding stones, will try that tomorrow.

 

Marty

Posted

Progress at last!  It only took about 30 seconds of work with the Dremel tool to get the plunger to fit, then I blew it out, put some of the "Assemblee Goo" on the plunger, made sure it stayed in place, and installed the original lockout switch.  I then tested to make sure that the switch was open when the lever was disengaged, closed when engaged, and then made sure that it opened again when disengaged (wanted to be sure that the "Assemblee Goo" didn't hold the plunger out).  Now all I have to do is install the floor tunnel cover, the carpet and the seat, and then it will be ready for a test run.  Should be ready to go Wednesday!

 

Marty

  • Like 3
Posted

Excellant !!!! Good luck I hope you got it right and take a nice ride. Don't forget to gas her up. ha!

Doc

Posted

It works!  I got the car back together, took it for a drive to warm it up, then pushed the cable into the engaged position and took it up to speed in 3rd.  Lifted off of the throttle at about 40, and it shifted silently into overdrive! Drove it for about an hour, filled it with gas.  Seemed to run better after the fill-up, maybe because when I checked my records the last time I put gas in it was March, so it might have been starting to go bad.

 

Overall I'm a happy camper.  Now I just need to get the steering wheel straightened by setting the toe-in, and them see about replacing the rear springs, since one of them has been starting to sag a bit.  I think this thread is done!

 

Marty

  • Like 7
Posted

Who you calling dwarf Plymouthy????????

 

Should have the relay and solenoid in hand tomorrow afternoon. Hoping for the best....................then on to the rings!!!!!!

 

 

Never ends does it? HA!

Posted

Why didn't you pull the cover off the relay and check it out?

Probably only dirty points. They seldom melt down unless a 12 volt jerry rig (up?) grade..

Posted

We did, they were toast. The relay was original from 51 and the solenoid was a replaced piece both were 6V.

Was supposed to have the new pieces thurs or fri. but looks like monday will do.

 

 

Marty don't forget to go home once in a while!!!!  :cool:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

At my end once again, the relay & solenoid have been replaced. The wiring has been doubled checked! The kick down works fine.

However the cable that routs into the tranny doesn't engage, when its held the car won't go into reverse!!

The fellow trouble shooting will be talking to the fellow who worked on the tranny to find out exactly what was replaced.

I have Fifth Ave Parts helping with the electical in concert with the OD manual and a seperate Borg Warner spec sheet.

 

I remember folks here mentioning a fellow who is a tranny man and OD expert but I can't remember his name. I've doubled back on other threads but can't find his name.........can you help Don & Tim and others.

 

Obviously my stubborness to own an older car without being able to even change the oil has caught up to me.

thanx Doc.

Posted

George Asche (814)354-2621. Very nice and happy to answer any questions you have.

Posted

Thanks I appreciate the info. The fellow evaluating the OD has to take a break on it because of his plans to

go to the Sema show in Vegas. I will speak with him on Tues morning in Vegas and pass along the info. He will be in  touch with the fellow who worked on

tranny in Sarasota who he knows and along with Mr. Asche input I hope to solve this problem.

Once again thank you, Doc

Posted

Since my thread keeps going on, thought I would update my situation.  In my last post I had taken the car out and driven it for an hour, with the OD working perfectly.  I then decided that it would be a good idea to treat the fresh gas in the tank, since I don't usually drive it a lot in winter.  Put the treatment in the tank, then decided that it would be a good idea to drive it a little to get treated gas up to the carbs.  So I took it for a drive to the store.  It worked flawlessly driving to the store, but wouldn't shift into OD on the drive back.  Mechanically it was engaged, because it was freewheeling, but electrically it wouldn't engage.  I was so annoyed that I drove it into the shop and closed the door and haven't looked at it since.  I suppose when I stop sulking I'll jack it up (again!) and see if something has changed with the wiring, but I'm in no hurry.

 

Marty

Posted

Maybe something as simple as closed points? Don't take any crap from the old car Marty!!! :angry:

 

I'll know more on my come Tuesday, I hope.

Doc

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