Added brake lights to 1947 Dodge

[central52]

On my 47 Dodge, I spliced in the two tail lite wires into the center brake lite wire giving me three brake lites. I installed two motorcycle lites and spliced in the tail lite wires, giving me lites at night. Seems to work. Ed

[central52]

Back, again. I noticed if I disconnect the center trunk brake lite, I'll get a brighter lite on the two tail lites that I connected to the brake lite wire. I put aluminum foil in back also, but was wondering if there is a product out there that has more reflective power, like glass. Any thoughts? Ed

[casper50]

if you can use glass in it a mirror would be the best

[White Spyder]

I added LED light to where the small reflector is located in my tail lights wired to the brake light circuit. Keeps the original look and adds a bit of safety. I like what you have done as well.

Edited July 22, 2015 by White Spyder

[Merle Coggins]

If your other lights get brighter when you disconnect one I would suspect some bad wires that can't carry enough current for all of the lights. When you reduce the load the remaining lamps are getting more electric current and burn brighter. Maybe a thorough inspection of your brake light circuit is in order.

 

Merle

[_shel_ny]

On my 47 Dodge, I spliced in the two tail lite wires into the center brake lite wire giving me three brake lites. I installed two motorcycle lites and spliced in the tail lite wires, giving me lites at night. Seems to work. Ed

 

 

I think I would have spliced the "add on" lights in as additional brake lights.

 

I think I would have left the tail lights as they were. Undisturbed.

 

They are mounted and pointed properly to be seen as tail lights at night.

 

As I understand it, you have made the stalk lights the tail lights. They are now lower, smaller, and not as visible to those behind you.

Edited July 22, 2015 by shel_ny

[central52]

Yes, I wasn't sure which way to go with the added stalk lite.  I figured with the added brake lite in the regular tail lite, that's where most people in back of me would see a brake lite go on.  And so, with my driving at nite is very limited, the stalk lite should be sufficient  enough for people in back of me to see.  Thanks for your suggestion, anyhow.  I might change my mind about it in the future. I'm always open for new solutions for things.    And the suggestion of checking the brake lite wires make sense.  Trying to figure out how they get from the dash to the trunk.  And how to run new wires.  Ed

Edited July 22, 2015 by central52

[DonaldSmith]

Do you have double filament sockets in the existing tail lights?  One filament for taillight, the other for turn signalling or braking. You might wire it that way for braking, and use the stalk lights for turn signalling. 

[_shel_ny]

    And the suggestion of checking the brake lite wires make sense.  Trying to figure out how they get from the dash to the trunk.  And how to run new wires.  Ed

 

On my D24 the wires to the rear lights ran up the A pillar, and over the driver's side door. Tucked in the channel where the headliner meets the metal.

Edited July 23, 2015 by shel_ny

[Plymouthy Adams]

On my D24 the wires to the rear lights ran up the A pillar, and over the driver's side door. Tucked in the channel where the headliner meets the metal.

 

yes...and might I add to anyone thinking of disturbing these wires..their age and location cause them to be rather dry and brittle as they get all that heat in summer from their close proximity to the roof metal.  they are also held in place by metal bend tabs that prevent a slow a careful extraction.  I would not recommend messing much with these wires unless taking down the headliner is in your plans also.

[_shel_ny]

The wires on my car were in good condition. Dome light wire switch wiring was also routed along with those wires.

 

I would suspect that any dimming/brightening of the lights is more likely to be associated with wiring/connections/bulbs/modifications in the rear.

[central52]

So, maybe, instead of going thru the headliner, why can't I just run the wire directly from the hydraulic switch in the engine compartment and go underneath along the frame to the trunk?   I'm looking at the switch and it has two wires, I assume one to the voltage regulator, and the other to the dash lighting switch.  Think it would work?  Ed

Edited July 23, 2015 by central52

[DonaldSmith]

Maybe you can run the wires inside the cabin, under the carpet, to the trunk. 

[_shel_ny]

one wire on the hydraulic switch is power in. Hot all the time.

 

The other wire goes to the brake light(s) where it goes through the filament(s) to ground.

[central52]

Yep, I think I'll try that. Maybe going along inside under the carpet.  Now, I'm looking at the brake switch, which wire is which?  Does one wire go directly to the voltage regulator?  All these wires underneath are taped together in a big lump.  Hard to trace them.  Ed

Edited July 24, 2015 by central52

[Plymouthy Adams]

what does your schematic say?  that is the best way to identify these faded out cloth wiring harnesses..

[_shel_ny]

One wire is hot(power) all the time.  That wire is most likely getting power from the lighting switch under the dash, but only as a common connection electrically. It could be connected anywhere that has power all the time. I do not know if it is controlled by the circuit breaker that is built into the headlight switch. It may be. Voltage regulator has nothing to do with power to the lights.

 

You can determine which wire is which by unhooking them one at a time, and testing for 6 volts from that individual wire to ground .

 

Once you determine which is which you could leave the one that goes to the lights in the back unhooked. Then before getting all froggy and running under the carpet, or under the vehicle, just run a test wire (16 gauge or heavier) outside the vehicle to the back eliminating the existing wire. There is also a disconnect (insulated bullet connector) in the trunk somewhere near the high brake light (follow the wire back from the socket to locate it)  that can be unhooked to eliminate the existing wire from front to back completely for your test. I would unhook both ends.

 

Personally I do not think that there is a problem with the front to back wire. You are using that same wire when you say that the lights get brighter when you unhook one light.   Your problem is in the back with the bulbs,or bulb sockets, or modifications, or connections. Clean the socket spring clips down to bare metal for good grounds. Make sure you have not wired up so that the front parking lights come on with the brakes.

[_shel_ny]

Back, again. I noticed if I disconnect the center trunk brake lite, I'll get a brighter lite on the two tail lites that I connected to the brake lite wire.

 

Have you completely eliminated the tail light function from the original fender mounted lights????? 

 

Do you have them connected as brake lights only???? 

 

Is someone, or a stick, holding the brake pedal down when you are making this observation????  

 

Do you have turn signals with this vehicle(dual filament bulbs in the sockets)????

 

If you have turn signals, you have opened a whole new bucket of worms. Undo your splicing and wiring. Return the taillight brake/turn signal wiring back to the way it was, and splice in your new stalk lights as additional brake lights to augment the trunk mounted high brake light.

Edited July 24, 2015 by shel_ny

[central52]

Ok, guys, here's the info.  I did run a test wire, 12 ga. directly from battery to the trunk  and the wires I hooked up to the tail light.  It was a little brighter than before.  I put a board between brake pedal and seat and checked the lites.  I have directional signals.  They go on when I don't push the brake pedal down, when I do, the brake lite goes on, but not the directional lite.  So, it's a trade-off, I much rather have the brake lites in the tail lites, since, as I mentioned before, most people in back would  see them as a normal brake lite in most cars.  As for the directional signals, they work, till I apply brakes.  If need be, I can stick my hand out the window, and signal.  I remember when I took my driving test when I was sixteen. (oh, so long ago),  Hand straight out, left turn, hand upward, right turn, hand downward, stop.  Any of you oldtimers, remember that?  Ed

[DonaldSmith]

Last I heard, it was hand straight out for everything.  But that was a long time ago.

[55 Fargo]

Ok, guys, here's the info.  I did run a test wire, 12 ga. directly from battery to the trunk  and the wires I hooked up to the tail light.  It was a little brighter than before.  I put a board between brake pedal and seat and checked the lites.  I have directional signals.  They go on when I don't push the brake pedal down, when I do, the brake lite goes on, but not the directional lite.  So, it's a trade-off, I much rather have the brake lites in the tail lites, since, as I mentioned before, most people in back would  see them as a normal brake lite in most cars.  As for the directional signals, they work, till I apply brakes.  If need be, I can stick my hand out the window, and signal.  I remember when I took my driving test when I was sixteen. (oh, so long ago),  Hand straight out, left turn, hand upward, right turn, hand downward, stop.  Any of you oldtimers, remember that?  Ed

only 2 ways to make this work correctly.

1) use a 7 wire signal stat, this will allow the brake lights and signal lights to work as a team, this would also allow you to have the trunk mounted stop lamp to come on when you hit the brakes. This will allow you to use the brake lights and signal lights at the same timer correctly and safely.

2), you need some homemade relay circuits for each of the tail light assemblies, again  this allows signals and brakes to be used correctly at the same time. You need the schematic and elctronic know how to make these.

Or as Shel mentioned, you add 2 auxiliary tail lights for stop lamps and use the oem tail lights for lights and signals......good luck

[central52]

Thanks, Fargo, for your input.  Will look into those options.  Ed