Radiator Springs A Huge Leak

[55 Fargo]

Hey all, a few weeks back a Man who lives in my area, shot a bunch of rocks at my blessed 55 Fargo, with his flatdeck trailer with a Kubota tractor on it.

This resulted in rocks hitting my hood, bumper, grille bars and 1 right into my rad, and this resulted ina tube rupture.

I had no choice but to **** down my truck, and wait for a friend to hepl me tow it home, and that was not a pleasant experience either.

I have discussed this with the suspect, as I know him, he feels badly, but not totally responsible, and has not offered to pay for anything yet.

Tonight I had time to pull the rad, here are the pics.

I have been really busy lately, and also bought an off topic Ram 1500 crew cab 4X4 with a 5.7 L Hemi, this thing is wickedly fast and powerful, and nit that hard on fuel, if you take it easy....

 

Pics f the rad damage, not sure this can be isolated and repaired, or if I am looking at a complete re-core...

[NiftyFifty]

A rad shop can cut and seal off those tubes, but it does start to limit your cooling ability the more runs you lose. They can also recore it to the tune of $3-400,

[55 Fargo]

A rad shop can cut and seal off those tubes, but it does start to limit your cooling ability the more runs you lose. They can also recore it to the tune of $3-400,

Yes you are correct, will find out tomorrow. I may opt for a repair for now, as my eventual 318 swap, I will need to possibly change the bottom rad hose outlet, and would recore all at once....money money money......LOL

[HanksB3B]

I don't know how you handle things back where you are but we don't take no guff from no one here in LA.

 

http://www.wpxi.com/news/news/national/shocking-video-shows-violent-road-rage-brawl-los-a/nmZHh/

 

Hank 

Edited June 11, 2015 by HanksB3B

[55 Fargo]

I don't know how you handle things back where you are but we don't take no guff from no one here in LA.

 

http://www.wpxi.com/news/news/national/shocking-video-shows-violent-road-rage-brawl-los-a/nmZHh/

 

Hank 

This ain't LA Hankster, this is a very rural small town atmosphere, where everybody knows everyone, so you step on someones toes, there are many feet.

I know the perpetrator, he is generally a very nice fellow, so will give him a chance to come up with something.

I know how to handle things the tough way if need be, as I am a city boy, transplanted into the country.....

[White Spyder]

Don't look like no rock hit to me, looks more like a small bolder

[55 Fargo]

Rad shop called today, repair not likely or advisable, as 2 tubes have already been cut off, from a prior repair, I knew about that repair. New core job $400-$450, and possibly as high as $500.

I then decided to start an insurance claim, and made the call, will see adjuster next Friday, I did rat out the guy who did this, and hopefully he will pay my $300 deductible. If this claim goes through they most likely will want me to buy a new rad, say from US rad....geesh what friggin pain in the A$$

[NiftyFifty]

You must have a $200 deductible to make it worth it, I just carry $300 on the truck and car for now, but the truck will be getting appraised this go round. Good luck with autopac, in Brandon they would likely write the truck off and charge to tow it out to the wrecker!

[55 Fargo]

You must have a $200 deductible to make it worth it, I just carry $300 on the truck and car for now, but the truck will be getting appraised this go round. Good luck with autopac, in Brandon they would likely write the truck off and charge to tow it out to the wrecker!

yah whatever, write off for a rad, on a truck that is appraised at 5k. My neighbor will have to pay the deductible not me, according to MPI... ps don't dent your fender or bumper, they will write off your truck, and a light fender bender is far more expensive than a rad replacement, so a broken windshield, they gonna write off the truck too, don't think so

[NiftyFifty]

Is the truck been officially appraised? If not Mpi only values on the blue book value, which is likely $500. I guess you have no idea what it's like to really deal with them, I've had enough run ins with them and heard enough other horror stories.

[Jeff Balazs]

If it were me I would consider putting in a new alloy radiator......and a stone guard.

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Is the truck been officially appraised? If not Mpi only values on the blue book value, which is likely $500. I guess you have no idea what it's like to really deal with them, I've had enough run ins with them and heard enough other horror stories.

yes it is officially appraised, but who knows what they may try and weasel out of.

My dealings, although limited in the last number of years, has been great...

[55 Fargo]

If it were me I would consider putting in a new alloy radiator......and a stone guard.

 

Jeff

I have considered this, but which rad from Champion?

This set up requires a filler neck to the left side, have not seen that type for this application on their website, anyone else have any ideas?

[RobertKB]

Why not a recore of the original?

[55 Fargo]

Why not a recore of the original?

I agree Rob, with the rad and it's filler to neck to one side, it is hard to find a donor, unless I found a cross flow rad, that might be close in size and dimension. The hood design just does not allow for a center fill neck, at least it would be a PITA to check and fill with coolant.

Champions closest size/type rad would be close to $300 to my door, with shipping and dollar exchange, then the fabbing to fit, etc, the recore would be around the 400-450, and no playing around, so you get the picture.

I am waiting on word for a possible good used donor, I even pulled out a 48 Chrysler rad from the shed, but it has holes too.......LOL

[Jeff Balazs]

There is an alloy truck radiator available. One on ebay @ $380 right now. I have seen others. If you do a swap later it might make more sense than a recore.

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

There is an alloy truck radiator available. One on ebay @ $380 right now. I have seen others. If you do a swap later it might make more sense than a recore.

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff, could not find that rad, is it specifically for a 54-56 dodge c series trucks?

[Jeff Balazs]

B series but it might fit. Either way it would be worth researching if you are serious about an engine/tranny swap. Would have built in transmission cooler......

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

B series but it might fit. Either way it would be worth researching if you are serious about an engine/tranny swap. Would have built in transmission cooler......

 

Jeff

No B series and C series are a bit different in size unfortunately,C series is wider, B series is taller. I do understand and have seen the trans coolers on these rads, which is nice. I have at least 2 external type trans coolers in my shop anyways.

Not 100% sure which way I am going with this yet....

[The Oil Soup]

I don't know how you handle things back where you are but we don't take no guff from no one here in LA.

 

http://www.wpxi.com/news/news/national/shocking-video-shows-violent-road-rage-brawl-los-a/nmZHh/

 

Hank 

. That looks how guys from Nevada handle dopey drivers

[The Oil Soup]

I don't know about c series trucks but on a b series champions cc4749 radiator worked with a little bit of bracket fabbing. It was a slightly shorter but other wise is fine.

[Bobacuda]

I had to have the radiator in my B4B recored years ago - never cooled as well as the old honey-comb and it always leaked.  While rebuilding my truck, I found US Radiator online.  I got a new, High Efficiency radiator from them.  The only fitment problem was that the hose connection to the tank was centered on the side of the tank, not the bottom, so I needed a new, slightly longer upper radiator hose (to replace my other new, upper hose).  It was not cheap with sales tax and shipping, but it dropped right in, cools very well (so far) and it does not leak.  They have them for your truck, as well.

 

http://www.usradiator.com/radiators/dodge/truck.html

[55 Fargo]

As of today, nothing has been settled on this problem, but a number of things have been explored.

-recore is $450-550

-new rad from US Radiator is $640 delivered to my door

- used rads have 2 options $150, both are original 60 years old

- Champion rad, far from the correct type and size $210 plus USD/CDN exchange, plus shipping = about $320

I had my rad inspected, it was attempted to be repaired, infact the damage was repaired, but the shop said it is leakingfrom other areas now, it wsn't before, but it is again a 60 year old rad.

I did make an insurance claim, this is pending, but I would be responsible for the $300 deductible.

This is a problem I did not create but have to deal with, as is many other issues that can happen....

Edited July 5, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far

[Bobacuda]

Fargos -

I know that the price of buying a new radiator from US Radiator is not cheap (mine was slightly less than yours).  However, mine bolted right in, no mods or guesswork.  No brackets to fabricate (I don't have the tools for that).  It fits, and looks original - except it does is not a honey-comb and it does not have the Mopar letter stamping the tank.  It is clean as a whistle, does not leak should not fail and leave me stranded, or fry my engine.   I live in south-central Texas, so 100+ F in the summer is not uncommon.  The combination of the things I have mentioned made it worth the expense to me.  I chose to buy the radiator rather than pay $$$ and expend a bunch of time to rebuild my engine, again.  For me, it was money well spent versus a false savings.

 

Having been there, I don't envy you have to make this decision. 

 

If you get any kind of a damages settlement, think of it as a discount on a new radiator.  Plus, you can get a new one sized now for that 318 you were talking about and save money on it in the long run ("save" is probably not the right word, but not sure what else to use here).  Good luck on the settlement issue.

[55 Fargo]

Fargos -

I know that the price of buying a new radiator from US Radiator is not cheap (mine was slightly less than yours).  However, mine bolted right in, no mods or guesswork.  No brackets to fabricate (I don't have the tools for that).  It fits, and looks original - except it does is not a honey-comb and it does not have the Mopar letter stamping the tank.  It is clean as a whistle, does not leak should not fail and leave me stranded, or fry my engine.   I live in south-central Texas, so 100+ F in the summer is not uncommon.  The combination of the things I have mentioned made it worth the expense to me.  I chose to buy the radiator rather than pay $$$ and expend a bunch of time to rebuild my engine, again.  For me, it was money well spent versus a false savings.

 

Having been there, I don't envy you have to make this decision. 

 

If you get any kind of a damages settlement, think of it as a discount on a new radiator.  Plus, you can get a new one sized now for that 318 you were talking about and save money on it in the long run ("save" is probably not the right word, but not sure what else to use here).  Good luck on the settlement issue.

Yes I agree, this would be ideal, and would be the easiest.

I have no problem modifying a rad for mounting, my question is the filler neck, and whether or not I can access it with the hood on.

I am tempted to use a modern aluminum cross flow rad from Champion, and it would cost 1/2 of what a new US rad would be.

Who has used a Champion aluminum rad in there truck? Do you have pictures of the installed product?