Acceleration problem

[Joe Flanagan]

The wire broke off at the terminal. Looks like the other one is ready to do the same. 

[nonstop]

So you remove the block and just run your new wire right through the hole in the side of the distributor?

Yeah, the factory wire has a grommet that goes through the hole. The grommet is round and the hole is square, but I put a wire tie on each end to keep it centered in the hole. Even the wire off of a V-8 distributor should fit no problem.

As for the Pertronix, I have never been overly impressed with the quality, and that is after running it and a few different vehicles myself. I have seen problems with both the pick ups and the coil. The last time I had a problem with the distributor, I was about 40 to 50 miles from home. I was able to fix it with a spare piece of wire and some scotch tape until I got home. I had forgotten how good points distributors CAN be!

Edited May 15, 2015 by nonstop

[Joe Flanagan]

So right now I'm in the process of installing new lead wires in my distributor. The ones I made (and which promptly broke) were about 1 1/2 inches long. I notice that in the chart that Rich Hartung posted under "Small Distributor Lead Wires" the stock lengths are well over 2 inches. Does anyone think the fact that I used a shorter length made a difference? Would a longer wire hold up better under the constant flexing? Also, the wire I used was not copper and I think the original was copper. Does that make a difference in terms of longevity? When I first rebuilt the distributor, I used a thicker wire than the one that recently broke. It worked fine for a long time before it finally gave way. I'm thinking of maybe using that thickness again. Any suggestions are more than welcome. Would love to hear from anyone who's done this and actually had the wires last for a while. I plan to make the trip to New York in August to meet with the other forum members, but I would not attempt it unless I figure out a better solution.

[nonstop]

Longer wires give it more length and room to flex. That's what I ran into. I made a couple of my own leads prior to replacing that wire. I started with thicker wire and it lasted longer - but still broke. One other thing about changing out to the longer wire, it was easier to work with than trying to get into that small space to tighten the lead nut.

[Joe Flanagan]

I might have figured out my problem. I noticed that on the replacement NAPA wires, the terminal is crimped onto the insulation as well as the strands of the wire itself. On the ones I made, I crimped the ring terminals onto the wire only, with the insulation starting well back of the terminal. So the only thing the terminal was grabbing was the strands of wire and it had no hold on the insulation at all. When the thing flexed, all the stress was on the bare wire. If I have the terminal crimped on to the wire insulation as well, it looks like there's a lot less stress on the wire when it flexes. Does this make sense to you guys? 

[casper50]

make sure to fold the wire back along the insulation so that it contacts the terminal when crimped.

[Joe Flanagan]

I'm using the NAPA replacement wires with their original terminals, so I should be good there. The only modification I'm making is grinding one of the sides off the terminals so that they'll fit in place. I also plan to get an extra pair of wires to keep in my car along with the tools to make a roadside repair if this should happen again. 

[JerseyHarold]

Wires that flex should be made of 'instrument' wire that's designed to move in service.  They won't eventually break due to work-hardening from flexing.  One example is the lead wires used  on test meters.  I've never looked for any but it should be available.  Might be a better choice in the long run.

[Jerry Roberts]

... The ones I made (and which promptly broke) were about 1 1/2 inches long. I notice that in the chart that Rich Hartung posted under "Small Distributor Lead Wires" the stock lengths are well over 2 inches.... 

 Joe , I measured my original equipment copper wire IGS181 . It measures 2 inches from center of eye terminal to center of eye terminal . I would't want to install anything shorter . 

[Jerry Roberts]

Wires that flex should be made of 'instrument' wire that's designed to move in service.  They won't eventually break due to work-hardening from flexing.  One example is the lead wires used  on test meters.  I've never looked for any but it should be available.  Might be a better choice in the long run.

Here is a company that might sell a flexible wire that would work .http://www.coonerwire.com/silicone-flexible-power-cable/

[desoto1939]

Another good way to get these replacement wires is by purchasing  a NOS breaker plate that is the correct one for your car or truck. The compete breaker plate with upper and lower plate will come complete with the wires, points and condenser already in place.  When ever I do a tuneup I have a couple of spare NOS breaker plates and just install the new one and then rebuild the old one with NOS parts.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Joe Flanagan]

Thank you for all the responses. I was able to make a new pair with some thin wire I had around. I think my mistake was in the way I crimped the terminal to the wire. All the stress was focused on a small area at the base of the terminal. This is because I did not have the terminal gripping the insulated part of the wire. I've fixed that and I'm back up and running. I'm pretty sure, anyway, that that was my problem.

[deathbound]

I might have figured out my problem. I noticed that on the replacement NAPA wires, the terminal is crimped onto the insulation as well as the strands of the wire itself. On the ones I made, I crimped the ring terminals onto the wire only, with the insulation starting well back of the terminal. So the only thing the terminal was grabbing was the strands of wire and it had no hold on the insulation at all. When the thing flexed, all the stress was on the bare wire. If I have the terminal crimped on to the wire insulation as well, it looks like there's a lot less stress on the wire when it flexes. Does this make sense to you guys? 

 

Use heat shrink tubing for more support at the terminal ends.....I think they make adhesive lined tubing also.

[Mark Haymond]

Joe, now is the perfect time to make an extra wire to keep in the glove compartment. You will feel better knowing you have a spare.

[Joe Flanagan]

Exactly what I was thinking. I made two spares and am now keeping them in my trunk along with a small flat blade screwdriver, an open end 7/16 wrench, a 3/8 socket, a 7/16 socket, and a ratchet. That will be my roadside emergency kit in case the wire breaks again. I've also put a mark on the engine block that shows exactly where the line to the vacuum advance is positioned so that I get the timing close when I put the distributor back in. It was a really dumb mistake on my part, crimping the wires the way I did. Like I was just asking to break down. 

[Jerry Roberts]

I  mark where the rotor is pointing with a piece of chalk so that I don't get the timing 180 degrees off . 

[Sharps40]

I always used desoldering wick for the wire in the dizzy.  Crimped terminals and then either insulated with tape or heat shrink tube.  Very flexible, seemed to last and last. 

 

Desoldering wick has rosin on it.  If you want to solder the terminals on its fine or you can simply use finly braded ground strap if the presence of the rosin in the soldiern wick causes ya concern. 

 

Either way, insulate yours with heat shrink tube works well.  Ya can  even add a second layer of heat shrink where the wire bends and typically rubs the inside of the dizzy.

Edited May 19, 2015 by Sharps40

[Joe Flanagan]

That sounds like the best way to go. This is available at electronics stores?

[Jerry Roberts]

That sounds like the best way to go. This is available at electronics stores?

Plymouthy had posted a link to the product on ebay . ' Braided Copper Soldering Wick '  .  I ordered a roll from China for 99 cents with free shipping . He also mentioned that it is available in the electronics stores . I can't find his posting right now . 

[_shel_ny]

Plymouthy had posted a link to the product on ebay . ' Braided Copper Soldering Wick '  .  I ordered a roll from China for 99 cents with free shipping . He also mentioned that it is available in the electronics stores . I can't find his posting right now . 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/38718-small-distributor-lead-wires/

[Joe Flanagan]

Right, I had forgotten Tim had posted that link. Thanks.

[Jerry Roberts]

Today I made up some lead wires from 2.00 mm  solder wick . The terminals are crimped and soldered . I put heat shrink tubing one one and that one seemed a little stiff , your heat shrink tubing may vary . I coated another one with liquid tape and I prefer the liquid tape . 

[Niel Hoback]

When I made my wires, I used the desoldering wick, but I made them long enough to make a 360 degree loop so the flexing is distributed all around the loop not just the ends.

[Joe Flanagan]

Interesting way to approach it, Niel. 

[Niel Hoback]

Just don't make it big enough to get hit by the rotor.