ruff1148kr Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Read a lot on here about what to do for the seam between the fender and the grill section. everything from glass tape to normal welting I looked at a few with the welting but did not like how much it stuck up from the fender and saw a few where the welting got cut and was hollow inside . I had already ordered the Dennis Carpenter stuff for the gaps at the far end where it meets the cowl. So I searched for Welting made of the same stuff that had a solid bead that was much smaller then normal fender welting 1/8 bead instead of 1/4 or more. Found this going to give it a try this Spring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350993444915?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 your welting in areas like this is actually anti squeak and is an oiled cloth..sold by the foot from various retailers...Restoration Specialties comes to mind...available in many sizes and thickness..1-814-467-9842 Quote
pflaming Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Patina is also anti squeak, except what comes from the neigh-sayers. LOL Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) PP street jive says: Patina is also anti squeak, except what comes from the neigh-sayers. LOL PP what in the name of sam does the cry of a horse have to do with it all....... Edited March 6, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
NiftyFifty Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 I don't recommend the Roberts stuff....I haven't even installed it and I'm not sure it will ever look right, it just too bulky as it's just vynil sewn together with a plastic round strip inside....I'm really worried the gap it's going to create between fender and grill. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 I used body caulk. Looks about as close to original gaskets as possible. NOTHING should stick out on these trucks. the Stuff from Roberts is as close to stock original as I could find for the gap between the top of the fender and cowl. Everything else was either WAY BIG (Carpenter stuff) or WAY SMALL. Roberts isn't 100% but it was the closest. Quote
ruff1148kr Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 Since this stuff is sponge rubber type and only half the size of normal welting we have all saw, it should look a lot neater. and allow me to take it apart easy if I need to. Just not real good with caulk, don't think I ever have done a real neat Job, and test fitting fender last year I saw some pretty good size gaps we shall see.... Quote
MBF Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 I used a clear silicone sealant on mine. I masked both sides of the seam before applying it to give both edges a finished look that is receessed just slighly below the surface. A few years ago I had to remove the right front fender to do a valve job. I carefully ran a razor knife down the seam and was able to separate the fender from the grill section quite easily. When I do a finished paint job on it while I have it apart I'll probably use some rolled flat rubber stock that I found at a swap meet. Mike Quote
ruff1148kr Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Posted March 7, 2015 the flat rubber was something I was thinking about too, but since this stuff had a solid bead that was small, I thought If I don't like it I can trim it down with razor with out having to remove grill. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 I used a clear silicone sealant on mine. I masked both sides of the seam before applying it to give both edges a finished look that is receessed just slighly below the surface. A few years ago I had to remove the right front fender to do a valve job. I carefully ran a razor knife down the seam and was able to separate the fender from the grill section quite easily. When I do a finished paint job on it while I have it apart I'll probably use some rolled flat rubber stock that I found at a swap meet. Mike I've been told to NEVER use silicone on a painted metal surface...something about rust forming more easily...no ide if it's true or not, but from what I've seen on people trying to seal up a window on a car that does seem to be the case. At least where there is rust already present. A fresh paint job might be a different story. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 Yes certain types of silicone sealants.... "acetic cure" for example will cause corrosion. . Polyurethane sealant products.. say like Auto Sikaflex sealants will not cause corrosion in the metal joints being sealed up. 1 Quote
NiftyFifty Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 Used dumdum caulk last time, and it comes off very easy and works well, but very tough to mould properly and to get all the gaps right and not have any stick past...it also won't take paint very well, so I had to live with the black line between the two, which was fine with a black grill...but now going off white...I'm stuck looking for something new Quote
ruff1148kr Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Posted March 8, 2015 sounds like everything has its own problems, just wish the made the gasket in the parts diagram Quote
ruff1148kr Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Posted March 12, 2015 Well I got my new extra small rubber welting in and took a few pic's to compare it to normal welting others have used. to show the difference I think it will work out fine for me Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.