Jim Shepard Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Well, Doug's suggestion about separating the differential and using some cord and gasket-maker to fix my leak didn't work. I couldn't pull it apart enough to even pull out the old gasket and clean the surface. Looks like I'll need to pull the axles to free up the carrier. I can't tell from the manual whether I'll have remove the backing plates, shoes, and lines. Can't I just pull the axles out a few inches to free up the carrier, put a new gasket in and then shove the axles back in and button it up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 The axle bearings are held in by the backing plates so you really can't that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 The backing plates are easy - remove the brakes with them. Keep note of the shims on each site. While you're doing that, might as well replace the inner and outer seals on each side too, and repack the axle bearings. I think this is where Ed's PVC pipe trick comes into play, for getting the axles out? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 on the smaller trucks the backer plates can be removed? FEF's are riveted on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 The backing plates are easy - remove the brakes with them. Keep note of the shims on each site. While you're doing that, might as well replace the inner and outer seals on each side too, and repack the axle bearings. I think this is where Ed's PVC pipe trick comes into play, for getting the axles out? Shims? Where are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 They are behind the backing plates. The look like thin wheel spacers. The bolts that hold the backing plates to the housing go through the shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 bolts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 I've got the hub/drum puller. Is there a trick to pulling the axle or does it just slide out? If not, is this what you were referring to with the comment about Ed's PVC "pipe trick?" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobacuda Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) The way the local, old time mechanic showed me (for Mopar 1/2 ton trucks or cars) 50 years ago (damn that makes me feel old) was to pull the drum, then take off the brake backing plate. Once that was done, put the drum back on and snug down the nut that holds it. Hold a piece of 2x4 across the inside diameter of the drum and hit the 2x4 with a 5lb hammer to drive the axle out. You usually have to rotate the drum and whack the 2x4 several times, I have used this method more times than I care to count - it works. After the axles are out, replace the inner seals for the axles - or they will leak - then you can remove the pumpkin . When you put the axles back in, turn it till you feel it line up (it will go in a bit) and a light tap or two with the 2x4 once its lined up, replace the outer seal in the brake backing plate and bolt it back in place, connect your brake line and put the brake drum back on. Oh, and get the drums on the correct side of the car unless you want to pull them again - that whole L & R lug bolt thing (don't ask how I know...) Remember to bleed and adjust the brakes. Edited February 7, 2015 by Bobacuda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 The PVC pipe trick is a piece of pipe as a spacer. You pull the drum and backing plate then put the Pipe over the axle. Then you put the drum back on and use the nut to pull the axle. If you're careful you don't even get the drum stuck back on the taper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Does the axle need to come all the way out (remember, the original problem is a leaking diff gasket...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Never mind the last question-I got ahead of myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Ok, one more question: I noticed the 11 nuts on the differential are compression nuts (I think that's what they're called...). Can they be used again or are they one-use items? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 As in lock nuts? Or are there copper washers there too? I'd at least get new copper washers. Nuts should be ok to reuse. Use just RTV for the pumpkin to housing seal. no gasket - gaskets always leak in this case! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Not lock nuts. They have a rubber or plastic insert at the top. Takes place of a lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Pulled the hubs/drums today to save time when the guys show up on the 21st. Looks like one of the brake cylinders has been leaking. Darn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Pulled the hubs/drums today to save time when the guys show up on the 21st. Looks like one of the brake cylinders has been leaking. Darn! OK - now your starting to scare me as I have to do inner seals next. At least I know I won't have Bobacuda's problem as both my rear drums are left-hand thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Pulled the hubs/drums today to save time when the guys show up on the 21st. Looks like one of the brake cylinders has been leaking. Darn! You've got more will power than I do. I couldn't wait 10 days I'd be tearing it apart myself and hoping I could put it back together(well in this case I know I could) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I may yet do that to save time. However, I've got plenty of other "honey-do's" around here to keep me busy. After all, she has offered to get the pizzas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 As in lock nuts? Yes, nylon lock nuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 As in lock nuts? Yes, nylon lock nuts... I would guess that those have been messed with by some previous owner. My truck did have them too but all the others I've messed with were just standard nuts with lock washers. You are not swapping diffs right just fixing leaks? I swapped a car diff into mine and I did run into a couple spots where the housing was a little bit thinner than the truck one so I had to double washer them. If I had known this before I could have swapped in a new stud or put a couple more threads on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I generally don't reuse nylok nuts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 ggdad1951, on 13 Feb 2015 - 3:19 PM, said:I generally don't reuse nylok nuts I am in agreement. Nylok nuts are one time use only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I recall reading somewhere they were good for 3 times. Of course unless its something you had from new how would you know how many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 I had an older piece of farm equipment fail because the nylon lock nuts, which were quite old, came loose as the nylon had become brittle and no longer locked the nut in place. As for repeat usage, I reckon this varies with nut size & quality of nylon. I've seen larger nylon lock nuts that lose their effectiveness after one use, and smaller (under 1/4") nylon lock nuts that could be used repeatedly. Since using the prevailing torque lock nut, I generally have opted to not use the nylon lock nuts, as the PTLNs are not as susceptible to failure from heat, age, or fatigue...on more than one occasion, I have converted a regular hex nut into a PTLN as a temporary solution as I had a bench vise and machinist's hammer available and needed to complete a project in a timely manner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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