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Posted

Oh the brass thing. Yeah I think my favorite thing under the hood is the QC stamps on the fire wall!

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

Scored at the scrapyard. Found 4 parts cars to dig at and ended up coming home with a new upper grill piece and 2 bullseyes headlights, all for $50. I meant to look for a steering wheel too but I was too distracted by the fact that I found the headlights.

I didn't "need" a new upper grill piece, but the one that came with the car was sanded and spray painted with chrome spray paint, so I guess in a way I kinda did need a new grill piece.

 

What I bought:

 

55F78D8F-6E3C-45CD-86AB-FB6965C210FD_zps

 

The donor Car (for the grill):

 

30E6099B-EDF2-495E-859F-671272C89FD0_zps

 

My car with the new grill piece:

 

03E5901D-8735-4A41-A1E9-210A651D8874_zps

 

For some reason I can't upload the picture of the Jeep that donated the bullseye headlights. Maybe some day.

Edited by Vermonter
Posted

Nice project.  I'm just over in New Hampshire working on a '54 Club Coupe.  I'll keep an eye out for anything '51 over in this area. 

 

RSD

Posted

Thanks for the update. Otherwise, I'd never have seen this thread.  (I'm a fairly new subscriber.)  Nice old car!

Have you figured out why she won't crank yet?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have not figured it out yet. Unfortunately I have other priorities this year. Trying to get my RV up to snuff so me and the lady can go on our honeymoon journey across the USA. I have been spending every waking moment that I'm not at work trying to get it up to her standards. Every waking moment, that is until this past weekend when I took it to York, Maine for the weekend to test it out.

 

 

 

12195065_433407823510718_177199649321121

 

12122427_427171824134318_221587045880852

Edited by Vermonter
Posted

I'm getting about 12mpg at any given time. Living in the northeast I assume decreases the number a bit. I expect i'd get better mpg in a flatter area. Also I could use a tune up and alignment.

Posted

I saw an old thread where Alshere59 used his OEM glass headlight lenses and slapped them on to a hella reflector. I have been wondering about restoring the headlights in my 51 and was thinking about doing a similar approach.

I want to remove my bullseye lenses and put them on some over the counter 6v headlights so I can basically "restore" the original bullseye lamp. All of the reflective surface on the inside of my headlamps have chipped away and my headlights appear dull and black. Normally I am okay with the old tired look, but I'm more concerned about safety and night driving.

Aside from Alshere59's approach using acid and electro methods, is there a way to safely and easily pry the glass from the housing, or is there another method that will work? I'm sure I can't be only the second person to attempt this.

Thanks

Posted

Thank you for the input. I'm trying to keep it as close to factory as possible, so I may not attempt the h4 retrofit. I'd like to attempt to take a replacement 6v sealed beam and swap out the glass to retain the sealed beam headlights, but it really boils down to how much motivation I have vs the benefit. I know h4's will produce a brighter output so that could be worth it.

Posted

Yea I was just thinking out loud. Pretty sure the h4 upgrades are not "sealed", as the bulbs are removable. That's the case on my motorcycle anyway, when I upgraded to h4.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am working at releasing the glass from the reflector...not easy to do but I am hopeful. I'm thinking I want to try and save the reflectors and try to nickle plate them to give them their shine back and re-use them. The idea of keeping the car original as possible is in my interest. I heard if you upgrade to the H4's you have to add relays because of the extra draw of the H4's. Don't know if it's true but I've seen it done that way in a magazine and I didn't like it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Can anyone confirm if nickle plating the old reflectors will give it a sufficient light reflection and "look" for keeping the headlights as original as possible? I'm not really sure how you would restore an old sealed beam.

Posted

Nickel is not really a good reflector coating for headlights. For converting bullseye headlights I thought the usual method was to use a modern reflector with the H4 mounting and attaching the old lens. If you do that then you have a modern reflector.

 

If you want to reuse an old reflector then you should check out Uvira. You put nickel plating on then send the reflectors to them and they put a vapor deposited aluminum layer followed by glass. This makes a good reflector that will not degrade with time.

Posted

By the way, to check the distributor problem:

1. Remove the dist. cap.

2. Remove the distributor from the block.

3. Using a long screwdriver, stick it down the distributor hole placing the blade in the slot that is meant to drive the distributor.

4. Have your helper hit the starter momentarily and notice if the screwdriver moves.

 

If the screwdriver moves while the starter cranks, you've got the wrong length distributor.

If the screwdriver doesn't move, you've got a broken oil pump, or a broken cam.

 

This test should take all of about 12.475 minutes.

  • Like 1
Posted

Wouldn't removing the dist. cap and watching the rotor as someone hits the starter do the same thing ?

  • Like 1
Posted

Wouldn't removing the dist. cap and watching the rotor as someone hits the starter do the same thing ?

 

Technically No, because there's always a chance that the distributer is busted. In theory.

 

It's been a while and my memory isn't great so I may have already mentioned this, but the previous owner replaced the distributor and there was no change (he clamins it was the right length, which tells me he was at least knowledgable enough to know there were 2 options). Although it's doubtful that the distributor could actually be so broken that it wouldn't turn is highly unlikely, I do appreciate Jeffs troubleshooting tip. And it would be quite fun and fulfilling to watch a screwdriver spinning around in that hole...

 

When I get the time I am going to try it without a screwdriver first. If there's no movement (which there won't be) I might try the screwdriver out of desperation. Who knows, it might give me some insight to what's going on. I seem to remember the previous owner saying that he removed the oil pump and it was fine... leaving me to beleive in my original theory that the Cam is FUBAR'd.

 

As far as the headlights go, I'm not entirely convinced I want an H4 bucket. I don't want to run extra relays and I'd like to have as much original parts and proper pieces as I can afford or realistically keep.

My idea for the nickle plating seemed like a good way to reatin all that, so Tod do you have any personal experience with working with Uvira? Do you know what they charge? I will check them out. Thank you

Posted

. . . My idea for the nickle plating seemed like a good way to reatin all that, so Tod do you have any personal experience with working with Uvira? Do you know what they charge? I will check them out. Thank you

I had the reflectors for my bulb and reflector headlights done by Uvira back in the 1980s when they did it all (now they want them to come prepped with the nickel plating). They still look good now. I recall it was a bit of a splurge for my way back when but don't recall the pricing then and haven't seen any recent pricing.

 

I documented my experiences at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/lightsand the last contact information I had for Uvira is:

 

Uvira, Inc. 

310 Pleasant Valley Rd. 
Merlin, OR 97532 
Telephone: +1.541.956.6880 
Fax: +1.541.476.9096 
email: uvira@terragon.com
 
I think they do things for either the medical or aerospace industry and the side business in headlight reflector finishing is only because the owner, Bill Atwood, is an old car buff.
Posted

Thanks!!

 

I will ask them what they would charge.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Looks just like mine, is it the same year?

Posted

Looks to be the same trim? Club coupe?

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