New to the Hobby - Questions

[ledfootslim]

Ok, I talked with my grandad, the master wood-grainer, and he said the secret is really getting the second layer of paint mixed right. First, of course, prepare the piece to be painted, sand and clean it well, then hit it with a layer or two of spray paint. Our choice was Krylon Brown Boots. After letting that dry fully, mix up your "graining" paint. We used burnt umber and plain black oil paints, if I remember correctly. DO NOT mix it thoroughly, as the swirls and streaks of the varying colors make up the wood-grain effect. I would suggest getting some practice in on a piece of scrap wood or metal. After dabbing a medium-small fine brush in the mixture, you just drag it lightly across the base coat, making sure you are going lightly enough to skip spots, and not covering the whole thing. Of course, you should try to drag in the same direction, with the occasional swirl to simulate knots or imperfections. It takes a lot of practice to get it looking nice, which is why you want to practice on some scrap first.  Afterwards, we used several coats of polyeurethane  to seal it. 

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I see now that Mr. Skinner already supplied a fine answer, so hopefully between the two of us, you guys can get your dashes, trim, garnishes etc. looking like they were carved from mahogany in no time!

[46CoupeSD]

Thanks everyone for all of your help describing the wood-graining process. Is there any way to determine what the original wood-graining would have been from the factory, short of ordering a build card from Chrysler?

 

Speaking of which, has anyone ever used that service? (link: http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Pages/Build-Records.aspx) I think it'd be interesting to see exactly how this car came from the factory.

 

I gave the old girl a good wash and wax today, she looks great! I was worried that the car soap I had used was leaving weird marks on the paint - but they disappeared after it had been dried and waxed.

Edited September 14, 2014 by 46CoupeSD

[ChrisRice]

Thanks everyone for all of your help describing the wood-graining process. Is there any way to determine what the original wood-graining would have been from the factory, short of ordering a build card from Chrysler?

 

Speaking of which, has anyone ever used that service provided? (link: http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Pages/Build-Records.aspx) I think it'd be interesting to see exactly how this car came from the factory.

 

I gave the old girl a good wash and wax today, she looks great! I was worried that the car soap I had used was leaving weird marks on the paint - but they disappeared after it had been dried and waxed.

I used the Chrysler service, and was thrilled with the results I got from them. They even sent me more information then just the build card and decoding. Well worth the cost IMO.

[46CoupeSD]

Quick update:

 

I recently showed my car at the Edgar Rohr Memorial Car Meet in Manassas, Virginia. Awards were decided via participant voting, and the '46 Business Coupe earned second place in the 1940-1949 group!

 

Everyone really seemed to love the Plymouth, and so many people had fond memories ("My mom used to drive me to school in this car" or "I learned how to drive in this car, looks exactly like I remember it"). Additionally, many of the meet organizers mentioned to me how happy they were to see something that wasn't a Chevy or a Ford. It was so great to see the car bring out so many emotions in people stopping by the show!

 

One problem I've been having, however, is with the battery. Every once in a while I'll stall out at slow speeds (my fault entirely), but then the starter button won't work. I've determined that sometimes there is a weak connection in the battery knife switch, causing a lack of power. Someone suggested I tighten up the prongs with pliers and apply some dielectric grease. Does that sound like it might solve the problem I've been having?

 

Thanks!

 

P.S.

Cars also shown in my group were a 1947(?) Chevy Fleetmaster, a 1949 MG T-Type, and a 1943 Willy's Jeep.

[Don Coatney]

Quick update:

 

I recently showed my car at the Edgar Rohr Memorial Car Meet in Manassas, Virginia. Awards were decided via participant voting, and the '46 Business Coupe earned second place in the 1940-1949 group!

 

Everyone really seemed to love the Plymouth, and so many people had fond memories ("My mom used to drive me to school in this car" or "I learned how to drive in this car, looks exactly like I remember it"). Additionally, many of the meet organizers mentioned to me how happy they were to see something that wasn't a Chevy or a Ford. It was so great to see the car bring out so many emotions in people stopping by the show!

 

One problem I've been having, however, is with the battery. Every once in a while I'll stall out at slow speeds (my fault entirely), but then the starter button won't work. I've determined that sometimes there is a weak connection in the battery knife switch, causing a lack of power. Someone suggested I tighten up the prongs with pliers and apply some dielectric grease. Does that sound like it might solve the problem I've been having?

 

Thanks!

 

P.S.

Cars also shown in my group were a 1947(?) Chevy Fleetmaster, a 1949 MG T-Type, and a 1943 Willy's Jeep.

Good looking car. Suggest you check all battery cable connections for your starting issue.

 

In 2006 I attended a car show in Manassas. Most likely the same show. Follow this link for a few photos.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DonCoatney/library/Boro%20Car%20Shows/Manassas%202006?sort=3&page=1

 

Pictured below at that show are Chet Brzostowski, Rodney Bullock, me, and Jim Yergin.

 

[greg g]

Check clean and tighten all the connections and wires on the battery side solenoid terminal. Lots of stuff connected there, and a little looseness or corrosion there can effect the whole electrical system.

[46CoupeSD]

Some brief background information:

 

I’ve been driving my ’46 Plymouth once a week for the past two months or so without any problems (approximately 200 miles). I was scheduled to bring her to a fundraising car show this past Sunday, but was unable to get the engine started; I blamed the early morning cold weather (47°). The starter would crank, but the engine itself would never catch. I followed the advice linked here for cold starts to no avail.

 

On Sunday afternoon, after coming home from the car show, I tried to jump start the car using my 12 volt daily driver (the Plymouth still runs on a 6 volt system). This, too, proved to be unsuccessful. Ambient air temperature was 61°, if that matters.

 

Cut to yesterday afternoon/evening: I picked up some starter fluid to see if that might help me get it started. I tried to start the car without using any… and surprise surprise, the car starts right up on the second push of the button. I let the engine warm up to 160°, and drove it around the block for about 15 minutes. Everything sounded great! I thought the problem on Sunday must have been due to cold weather.

 

I parked the car after my short 15 minute drive, let it sit for about 15 minutes, and then tried to start her again – no problems, the car started immediately.  I drove to my friend’s apartment about 10 minutes away and parked for another 20 minutes. After sitting for that amount of time, we got back in the car and she started up with no problems yet again – I was confident that whatever problems the car previously exhibited were only temporary.

 

We took the car on a drive through one of the local “small towns”, which consists of relatively tight turns, hills, and narrow roads. After about 20 minutes on the road, the engine started to misfire while going up-hill. As the drive progressed, the misfiring became worse and worse. For about 15 minutes, the car would absolutely not reach a speed above 25 miles per hour. While idling, no misfires were apparent. The misfires did not appear to coincide with driving up and/or down grades – it occurred while we on flat terrain as well. Additionally, I noticed that while idling at a stop sign/red light, the speedometer light would go out- all of the other lights on the instrument panel remained fully lit (amps, oil, fuel, and temp). When the car was moving again, the speedometer light would turn back on. Approximately 1/8 mile from my apartment, the car died at a red light as I waited to turn right.

 

Here is a quick and dirty list of symptoms:

• Car misfires in every gear (1 through 3)
• Car would not go above 25-30 mph
• Hills/grade did not seem to effect frequency of misfiring
• No engine knocking sound was noticed
• Speedometer light would go out at idle
• No misfires were noted while car was idling/in neutral
• Car died while idling at a stop light, would not restart

Now, I know next to nothing about cars. I do not have access to a garage. I have limited access to tools, which I will be fixing. I’ve searched the forum for “misfire”, and found some promising threads. Sadly, nearly all of them recommend a course of action for maintenance/repair that I am not currently capable of undertaking. Given that, I’d still like to get my hands dirty and see what I can do myself before resigning to a mechanic. I will do what I can with advice previously given to me on this thread (check battery cable connections, solenoid, etc).

 

My first plan of action will be to check/replace the spark plugs. I am not sure how old they are. Do you have any other advice on what course of action I should take?

 

Thank you so much for reading and offering any advice you might have! I’ll try my best to keep everyone up-to-date on my progress.

[DonaldSmith]

I think you can rule out the speedometer light as a cause or effect of your problem.  The light changes color with speed, and is very dim when the car is stopped.  The bulb does not change intensity. A moving prism does the color change and dimming.  

Edited October 7, 2014 by DonaldSmith

[Plymouthy Adams]

tune it up.......

[46CoupeSD]

I think you can rule out the speedometer light as a cause or effect of your problem.  The light changes color with speed, and is very dim when the car is stopped.  The bulb does not change intensity. A moving prism does the color change and dimming.  

 

Sometimes, the simplest explanation is the best! Thanks, I never noticed that was the case.

[46CoupeSD]

tune it up.......

 

Plymouthy,

 

For the tune up, is this the process that you are recommending?

 

What does it mean to set the Resistor Plugs at 0.035 Gap?

[casper50]

some of those plug types/numbers are resistor type plugs.  The gaps are set different

[Plymouthy Adams]

46CoupeSD, on 08 Oct 2014 - 09:56 AM, said:46CoupeSD, on 08 Oct 2014 - 09:56 AM, said:

_Plymouthy,

 

_{For the tune up, is this the process that you are recommending?}

 

_{What does it mean to set the Resistor Plugs at 0.035 Gap?}

 

_{that is not a process...those are specification one sets their engine to when doing the tune up...I would start with a fresh set of points, condenser and set these with a dwell meter if you can..being new however you should get by with a feeler gauge if you got a good eye and feel with the gauges in your hand.  A tachometer would be nice along with a vacuum gauge in balancing out he carb and you really need to see if your distributor is functioning both mechanical and vacuum advance along with setting the timing with a timing light...you will need a well marked damper/pulley for the degrees to be read or at minimum a timing light with this feature built in so to read the total advance mechanical and also vacuum..vacuum hand pump makes this an easy check and be sure your vacuum gauge is T'ed into the pump line so you know what advance you get at x vacuum as per specifications for that model distributor.  Also you need to know your plug wire condition..you can read these with a meter based on length if carbon style..if wire make sure the insulation is not breaking down and allowing cross fire in the loom from the distributor.  Read your cap and rotor for specs and if questionable replace if needed..be sure you get these parts per your dist ID number as if you mix and match you will never run on the highway.  Make sure your air cleaner is also properly serviced and clean with clean oil..should be part of the tune up  and if you have changed to a paper filter....hopefully it is of a style and size not to restrict air flow...check your coil for leakage inside the secondary tower and replace if oil is present...}

 

_{to further enchance your tune up a valve adjust would be good but as you were running good and then poof you were not..I am looking at the points being nasty, high resistance and or a failed condenser...with a failed condenser or nasty points you can run at idle and actually rev no load and seem fine..under load it breaks down and you thing everything in the world had now gone wrong at once...ok...now next point}

 

 

_{if all this sounds strange to you, you do not have the proper tools etc..find a friend with said knowledge/tools and let him walk you through a tune up..be time well spent....and while it is nice to ask questions....you have two ears, two eyes and one mouth..twice as important to listen and see during training time that to open ones mouth..not trying to be harsh but this is a process that must be done right to ensure optimum performance from you car and your money when buying said tune up parts...take notes also if you get aide from a seasoned techie}

Edited October 8, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[greg g]

The distributer is best and easiest serviced out of the car. It is also necessary to get the part number off the tag on the dist body to assure you get the correct replacement parts. The replaceable parts include cap,rotor, points, and condenser. Other parts are also serviceable and replaceable but would not be part of a normal tune up. They would be considered if you were to rebuild your distributer, but not normal maintenance. There is also a flexible wire that connects the coil terminal (the wire connecting the coil to the dist) to the points. This wire can breakdown with age and fail in two common ways. Most common is wearing off of the insulation, causing the wire to contact the dist body when movement of the advance mechanisms flexes it. The other fault is breaking of the wires within the wire causing high resistance, or lack of current flow to the points.

Removing the dist seems daunting at first but is a relatively simple procedure. Marking the position of the vacuum advance relative to the engine block, and position of the rotor relative to the dist body will assure it is returned in proper position. Hint, never turn the engine over with the dist removed.

With the dist out it is far easier to r and r the parts and set a proper gap at the points. Take your old points to the parts store with you. Today's replacements are mostly off shore junk. Compare the new and make sure they have a good quality rubbing block, a lubrication wick, and similar feel resistance on the points spring. If all the have is Chinese or Mexican junque try other parts stores.

If you are not comfortable with ant of the above procedures, then as was suggested before try to find some one who can assist you. Another thing to do is take pictures of each step as you proceed so you have a visual record of how things come apart and go back together.

[46CoupeSD]

Plymouthy and Greg,

 

Thanks so much for your detailed write-ups! I plan to tackle this either this weekend or sometime in the near future.  I will document and keep everyone up to date with my progress (or lack there-of).

[Don Coatney]

If you have not yet done so, buy a service manual for your car. These can usually be found on eBay. A MoTors manual that covers the year of your car is also a good investment. Pictured is the wire Greg made reference to and what the tag looks like on your distributor. The number you need starts with IAT or some other similar 3 letter code.

 

 

 

Pictured below is a page from a MoTors manual listing tune up specifications for distributors.

 

 

 

You can also setup up a test bench using an electric drill and a power supply to set the dwell with the distributor spinning as pictured below.

 

[SQ4MN]

I think the fellow said he does not have access to a garage or tools, nor does he have any previous experience with working on cars. My suggestion would be to spend as much time as necessary before going any further trying to locate someone with the time, ability, and desire to help him with this. I don't think it would be a good idea to raise the hood and start removing and replacing parts without help at the side of the road if this is his first time. Odds are that the car will spend to much time at said location in a "not running" condition until the authorities tow it away. Whenever I hear of someone that does not own tools or a garage or at least a covered spot in a yard I think it best and cheaper to PAY someone reputable to fix the problem. I am afraid the guy may end up with an album full of photos of parts he removed from a car he used to own and an oil spot on a piece of roadway where it used to sit.

Edited October 9, 2014 by SQ4MN

[46CoupeSD]

Thanks for the photos and specs, Don! 

 

Jim Yergin was gracious enough to offer me assistance in this task - we'll be trying to take care of business this Saturday. Big thanks to Jim! I'll keep everyone updated on how everything goes.

[greg g]

Jim is good folk, hopefully he can provide help in sorting your car. Good luck to both of you. Hope you have a productive time.

[SQ4MN]

WONDERFUL

[46CoupeSD]

Jim made it out my way today, and we immediately set to work tuning up the '46.

 

Although the rotor, points, and condenser installed in the car were relatively new, it looked like there was some corrosion/wear on the points. Jim noticed that the battery had been installed with a negative ground, and thinks that might have been the root of some of my problems.

 

After installing the new points, rotor, and condenser; adjusting the timing; and fixing the battery orientation; the car started up and drove like a dream.  She was a little shaky in first gear, but after driving for a few minutes that symptom seemed to go away.

 

Again, big thanks to Jim Yergin for helping me out today! Couldn't have done it without him.

Edited October 12, 2014 by 46CoupeSD