The Oil Soup Posted July 28, 2014 Report Posted July 28, 2014 I did a forum search on this subject with no luck. Maybe that's my answer- can the drag link be rebuilt? Or is it possible to take new tie rod ends and fab a new one? Quote
Bobacuda Posted July 28, 2014 Report Posted July 28, 2014 I think it was member Fernando Mendes that had a drag link rebuilt. They cut off the old ends, threaded the link and used new tie rod ends, making an adjustable drag link, if I remember correctly. The post had photos. Try searching this site for posts by him. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Posted July 28, 2014 That sounds like a plan, thanks Quote
MBF Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 I did that a few years ago until I could find a good one. Bought a new one on ebay about a year ago. Just copy the bend angle of the original, and the indexing of the ball joint ends. One thing: The diameter of the shaft of the drag link is thicker than the tie rod shaft. You may want to reinforce the bend. Mike Quote
TodFitch Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 You might also want to give Rare Parts in Stockton, California a call. There is a good chance they make that part. If not they can create drawings from your original and then make it and add it to their parts list. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 I am sure I have seen a new drag link made by Rare Parts offered. New ones are on Ebay from time to time as well. Jeff Quote
The Oil Soup Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Posted July 29, 2014 Im dealing with two problems, 1) Charlie Akers disc brake kit moves the steering arm closer toward the pittman arm and I will need to shorten the drag link and 2) with Sids dropped axle I need to mount the drag link to the underside of the steering arm rather than the top. Having a drag link with adjustable ends will resolve both issues. Moog tie rod ends # ES158R or L same as stock tie rod or drag link ends. Quote
Paul Beard Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 NAPA has drag links but very pricey about $395.00 Quote
MBF Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) Before you go buying anything you may want to mach this up to make sure that you don't have drag link clearance issues with and the right side spring or binding at the pitman arm going lock to lock. Edited July 30, 2014 by MBFowler Quote
Bobacuda Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 Found the link. It was by Fernando Mendes. http://p15-d24.com/topic/17027-new-drag-link/?hl=%2Bdrag+%2Blink Quote
Drifter99 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 With Charlie's brake kit did you shorten the tie rods? Got my kit on and there's 1 1/2 inches toe in looks like the ends need to be trim 3/4 inch I got new ball joint from Auto Zone. Your front end looks good with Sid's axel I use his on a 55 Chevy good stuff. Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Charlie's kits on stock axles don't require shorter tie rods, as far as I know. It would have been brought up here by now if they had or Charlie would have addressed it in his kit. The dropped axle is the reason. Changing the angle of the base line will change the width of the connection points. Dropping an axle increases the angle and narrows the width, straightening it does the opposite. Plant you arm on a table and pivot it at the elbow for a quick demonstration if you like . As you raise your hand, it get's closer. That's what an axle drop does. To be done properly, you may need to address the steering arm angles since you've now changed the reference points for the Ackermann angles and may get some additional (or less, who knows) bump steer and now that the wheels will be closer to the frame as well, maybe some tire scrub when turning and a larger turning radius. Just one of the reasons dropped axles seem to have gained a reputation for some ill handling characteristics. Good handling dropped axles need to address all the steering geometry principles. Changing one affects the rest of them. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Charlie's Rusty Hope kit does move the steering arms inboard 1/4" on each side so the tie rod does need to be adjusted 1/2" shorter. If you have enough adjustment it's not a problem. On mine there wasn't enough thread left to come in that much so I trimmed a 1/4" off each end before threading in my new tie rod ends. Also, since I did mine my steering wheel is a little off from where it used to sit when straight. I've thought of modifying my drag link with an adjustable end so I could adjust it back straight. But I could probably also bend it a bit more to achieve the same result. Merle Quote
The Oil Soup Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Posted July 31, 2014 With Sids dropped axle ( http://www.droppedaxles.com/ ) the axle is lowered and all measurements reset to stock specs. I also reversed the spring eyes and removed one leaf. Now the tie rod and drag link wouldn't clear the springs so I used speedway motors dropped tie rod ends ( http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Tie-Rod-End-Drops,50152.html ) which drop the tie rod 1.5" and require shortening the tie rod ( 5 or 6" ) and resizing the mount in the steering arms. Lastly the drag link end at the steering arm is rotated 180 degrees to attach from the underside. Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) I understand resetting all the kingpin angle and inclination specs back to stock. I'm curious how and where he adds the length so the overall width remains the same. My rudimentary geometry skills tells me it has to change....UNLESS it's built from scratch. Edited July 31, 2014 by Dave72dt Quote
HanksB3B Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Charlie's Rusty Hope kit does move the steering arms inboard 1/4" on each side so the tie rod does need to be adjusted 1/2" shorter. If you have enough adjustment it's not a problem. On mine there wasn't enough thread left to come in that much so I trimmed a 1/4" off each end before threading in my new tie rod ends. Also, since I did mine my steering wheel is a little off from where it used to sit when straight. I've thought of modifying my drag link with an adjustable end so I could adjust it back straight. But I could probably also bend it a bit more to achieve the same result. Merle Merle, Not sure if I understand correctly The wheel is spline mounted. You just have to mess with the horn. Hank . Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Merle, Not sure if I understand correctly The wheel is spline mounted. You just have to mess with the horn. Hank . Hank, When I put the truck together I centered up the steering and installed the steering wheel with one spoke straight up and the other two pointing down at 4:00 and 8:00. After doing the disc brake conversion the steering wheel is now turned to the right a little bit because the drag link moved towards the drivers side 1/4 inch. If I could shorten the drag link by 1/4" I could recenter the steering wheel, and the gear box. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Charlie's Rusty Hope kit does move the steering arms inboard 1/4" on each side so the tie rod does need to be adjusted 1/2" shorter. If you have enough adjustment it's not a problem. On mine there wasn't enough thread left to come in that much so I trimmed a 1/4" off each end before threading in my new tie rod ends. Also, since I did mine my steering wheel is a little off from where it used to sit when straight. I've thought of modifying my drag link with an adjustable end so I could adjust it back straight. But I could probably also bend it a bit more to achieve the same result. Merle Yup......same thing here. Maybe it's a 3/4 ton thing? I had to shorten my tie rod about an inch. And reset the steering stops a tiny bit. I will just live with the steering wheel as it is. I don't look at it when I am driving any way. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Posted August 1, 2014 I understand resetting all the kingpin angle and inclination specs back to stock. I'm curious how and where he adds the length so the overall width remains the same. My rudimentary geometry skills tells me it has to change....UNLESS it's built from scratch.. The axle is heated and stretched between the kingpin mount and spring mount. That area is very stout and after its dropped it doesn't look any different than stock. Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Thanks for the explanation. Must be quite a setup to hold an axle firmly enough and provide enough tension to stretch it that far. Quote
HanksB3B Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Hank, When I put the truck together I centered up the steering and installed the steering wheel with one spoke straight up and the other two pointing down at 4:00 and 8:00. After doing the disc brake conversion the steering wheel is now turned to the right a little bit because the drag link moved towards the drivers side 1/4 inch. If I could shorten the drag link by 1/4" I could recenter the steering wheel, and the gear box. Yup......same thing here. Maybe it's a 3/4 ton thing? I had to shorten my tie rod about an inch. And reset the steering stops a tiny bit. I will just live with the steering wheel as it is. I don't look at it when I am driving any way. Guys, wait there's like 16 splines or so. Just pull the wheel and move it 1 spline at a time. Am I missing something here ? Hank Quote
Merle Coggins Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Yes that's an option, but it wouldn't center up the steering gear Quote
HanksB3B Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Hum, I need a more scientific explanation... Hank Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Ok... In this instance the true center of steering (TCS) has been changed by a factor of .ooo4 MFp. Consequently the drag link length (DLL) must be adjusted and a new COS steering modulus must be established. The simplified formula for speeds under 300mph is as follows : COS squared + MFp x .0004 DLL/2 = TCS Of course we can just live with it the way it is. Mine works fine. I actually prefer the feeling of flying by the seat of my pants. Jeff 1 Quote
Drifter99 Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 Thanks Merle before I started cutting wanted a second opinion. I can't get it started after a complete engine rebuild so I'll step away from the motor and get on the tie rods. Thanks again , Cheers Quote
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