Alway Important to have Tools

[RodFru2u]

First off I would like to thank you all for the information. I have checked the search history and I believe the Axle Nut size for my1950 B2B is 3/4 x 16 castle.  I was driving this afternoon and for some reason the pass rear tire decided to try and escape. What I notice first was a thumping in the  rear,then the brake peddle went to the FLOOR and the engine over revved. I walked around to the rear and was amazed that I saved it from doing more damage. Found the two halves of the split pin in the axle hole but no washer or nut. Had to jack it up to pull the tire, then had to pull one shoe to mount the tire/drum back on the axle.

     I hope to get to the auto shop to get a proper washer and nut but the only way to get it to roll up the bed was to use my Vintage Plomb Pebble Finish Combo Wrench ( MFD  USA 1945 - 48 ) found a 8d common nail in my spare parts. The tow truck driver was blown away. So I guess I need confirmation on the Axle Nut Size is the Castle Nut Size  SAE  3/4" x 16 ? Thanks All for the great times I have enjoyed the posts,  Rod

[Dodgeb4ya]

Now here's a guy who knows how to use his tools!

[TodFitch]

On the car side, they used the same nut on the rear axle for all 1928 through at least 1948: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#53553

 

Its a 3/4-16 thread, 5/8" high castle nut with flats spaced 1 1/8". I would not be too surprised if the same one was used on the light trucks too.

 

So pieces of the cotter pin were still there? I suppose you are also missing the washer with the little tab that goes into the key slot to keep it from turning. That would be this one http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#50652 but I don't have a modern cross ref for it.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Same nut car and truck.

[MBF]

That's thinking on your feet!

[RodFru2u]

Excellent Information, Thank You. Yes the Axle Nut and Washer ( with tab) must be in the road somewhere I will check today, On the good luck side the Axle Key was still there and not beat up too badly, and the Axle Threads are NOT torn up. I will pick up a nut and check into finding the washer with the tab.That washer might be a tough one to find, I will have to dig through a ton of old rusted parts at a friends old car supply yard ( private junk yard ). Thanks again for the Great Forum and the Piles of information, Rod

[Jeff Balazs]

wow! You got really lucky. Nice save.

 

I am sure there will be people who disagree but this nut might be a good place to use a drop of Loctite.

 

Jeff

[jeffsunzeri]

The moral of the story may well be one or all of the following:

- Never re-use cotter pins.

- Only use high-quality cotter pins.

- Fit and bend cotter pins in the correct fashion.

Most of the cotter pins (split pins) I've seen in those inexpensive kits seem to be made of the softest, most awful material available. Use aircraft hardware here when possible. Otherwise the wrench-and-nail thing looks pretty cool!

[Desotodav]

Sounds like you had a lucky escape Rod. Good job on your quick thinking temporary remedy.

SO there was more than one nut loose behind the wheel of your truck at that time...

Let me know if you get stuck mate and I'll send you a washer and nut over.

Edited July 21, 2014 by Desotodav

[Jerry Roberts]

I found a castle nut like that at the hardware store . The private junk yard would be a good place to look too . 

[David Strieb]

WOW!!! That could have been a disaster!!  First post on the truck forum, long time member of the car side. I was always told by an old school mechanic (my dad) that you can't over tighten the rear axle nuts. I use a good fitting 3/4" drive socket, flex bar, and a 4' long cheater bar. if the cotter pin holes don't line up, tighten more till they do even if you have  to stand on it.  David

[TodFitch]

WOW!!! That could have been a disaster!!  First post on the truck forum, long time member of the car side. I was always told by an old school mechanic (my dad) that you can't over tighten the rear axle nuts. I use a good fitting 3/4" drive socket, flex bar, and a 4' long cheater bar. if the cotter pin holes don't line up, tighten more till they do even if you have  to stand on it.  David

+1 on this. Torque spec is 142 ft-lbs minimum. No max given. And definitely use a new cotter pin.

[HanksB3B]

I'm so glad you are o.k. (Rod drives on the highway..I don't) and that your truck got off so easy. With your knowledge of tools Rod, somehow that 's crazy fix doesn't suprise me. Remember yesterday when the guy was using a crescent wrench for a hammer? I guess your motto "The right tool for the right job" flew out the window on this one. Glad it wasn't one of your vintage Pebble Finish Plumb Tools. .

 

Let me know if you need help. (my power brake bleeder might come in handy) 

 

Check out the Vintage Oil Plug Wrench Rod spotted for me yesterday at the Rodium Open Air Market.(no big deal unless you don't have one) I couldn't resist the $10 Made in USA; in-the-box-never-been-used handrill either.

 

 

Meanwhile, I better check my nuts...yours fell off and I sure don't want that happening to me, 

 

Hank 

Edited July 22, 2014 by HanksB3B

[RodFru2u]

      Thanks for the Torque Specs, I will need them. It only took 4 Auto Parts shops to find the nut and washer,   

                               Dorman Part #'s 

                                 Spindle Nut  615 - 016

                                 Spindle Washer 618 - 005

      I picked two of each, with CA tax was less then $ 10.00.

Not sure if the tab/index is too long  On the Good news side, I did not ruin my axle nut threads, with some thread cutting oil and some patience I was able to install a new nut and run it home to the drum. However I am not able to mount the washer. I am not sure if I have the drum all the way to the brake plate or not. Going to file the tab down on one of them just a bit to slide over the 3/4" and see if I can get the drum to slide home. I am also going to get a thick 3/4" washer without tab and see if I can move the drum in some to expose the keyway. I'll pick up my Grandfather's Torque Wrench at my Pop's house. Thanks everybody for the advice and comments, I did indeed get LUCKY with this " Break Down "

Edited July 22, 2014 by RodFru2u

[Don Coatney]

I do hope you repaired the wheel cylinders before installing the drum.

[_shel_ny]

My 48, and 51 cars did not use a washer with the tab on the rear.

[Desotodav]

I'm glad that it was an easy fix for you Rod. You should be able to tell if the drum is on far enough by checking the distance it has slid past the lip of the backing plate.

I really enjoyed hanging out with you for the day when I was over that side of the globe.I do regret not having gone for a cruise in your old truck at that time. Maybe next time?

[RodFru2u]

Thanks Everybody for all  the help and advice. I ended up buying a bigger tab washer, file the tab some, and still had to add 3/4 flat washer to space for the split pin. Was able to torque to about 135+ ft lbs.  My Tuck is back on the road with a firm brake pedal and no axle wobble. I AM REAL LUCKY, I got away from this disaster for under $ 20.00.  Don, Thanks for that advise. I pulled the shoes and checked out the pistons and inspected the rubber. No cuts no scuffs no harm no foul, I got the brakes bled with no puddles of  dot 3. Drove it around the block doing emergency stops. She stopped straight  @ 35  MPH  with a nice  skid.

      I'm feeling ok at this time with the repair but I am heading out to Hanks place ( about 20+ miles ) to have him give me a hand pumping more dot 3 thru the system. Dav, Any time you are back in town Heck YES a ride in my old beater would never be a problem. I can ALWAYS use another body to help me push the beast after the next break down LOL ! I'm sure we can get you a ride in some old scrap iron laying around my Pop's or even at  friend or two.

        Thanks again EVERYBODY, You Guys are the BEST source of information.   Rod

[Jeff Balazs]

Rod;

Glad to hear the damage was minimal. It could have got ugly.

You can find good quality SS cotter pins at a well stocked marine hardware store. They are quite a bit tougher than most of the stuff out there these days.

 

Jeff