jorswift Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 Hey all. I just changed the oil in my P15 to Castro GTX high mileage, but prior to changing I put a bit of mystery oil in oil and gas. Now the car is smoking like crazy. I have a wedding to chauffeur this weekend and don't have time to do any major fixes. I know I may need to get it hot n drive it a few days to maybe burn it off. Anyone have any suggestions to anything? Engine honey or something? Thanks. Quote
DJ194950 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 DRAIN the gas and get that stuff out your gas tank pronto before you foul all the plugs and need to change them to. Oil change maybe if still smoking after some miles. DJ Quote
Ricky Luke Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 Hi Jorswift I had an engine in an Austin Healey Sprite that smoked like a chimney when I used GTX. I changed to a high weight Penrite HPR 50 oil with minimal detergents. Minimal smoke... Apparently the de-sludging additives also thins the oil so that it esaily gets past the rings. I dont know if you can get penrite near you, but you need a specific classic car oil with preferably no detergents, and at least 40-50W. That should get you through the weekend. Good luck! Rick Quote
jorswift Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Posted June 2, 2014 I put GTX 10-40w in the car yesterday when changing it. Quote
Ricky Luke Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 I put GTX 10-40w in the car yesterday when changing it. Yep, that's what I used. I know they say for high mileage, but I think they mean old 1980's. Not too good for our vintage... Rick Quote
jorswift Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Posted June 2, 2014 Yep, that's what I used. I know they say for high mileage, but I think they mean old 1980's. Not too good for our vintage... Rick I was told by a few others that this same oil stopped some smoking from other older cars. A guy put it in an old VW Bug, old truck, and an old show/parage go cart to stop smoking and worked in all. We shall see about the Plymouth. Quote
jeffsunzeri Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 One thing I've found out that applies across all vintage engine types is that multi-viscosity oils don't hold pressure as well as a good single viscosity oil. It's easy to see on the oil pressure gauge in back-to-back oil changes, especially on a warm day. I won't use them in any vintage engine, and I won't recommend them to any of my customers for their engines, and if I've rebuilt the engine and they have used multi-viscosity oils and have troubles related to lubrication they are on their own. Excessively thinned oil will promote smoking. In modern engines, it's a whole other story. 2-stroke engines are another thing altogether. By vintage engines, I mean: Pratt & Whitney, Lycoming and Continental radials, Lycoming and Continental flat aircraft engines, BSA, Triumph, Norton, AJS/Matchless, Ariel, Case gas engines, all older mopar engines up through the LA series V-8's. Quote
1941Rick Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 I wont comment on aircraft engines but I run 20/50 Pennzoil in my flatty with no trouble what so ever. idles 35psi hot and cruises 45-50psi Put oil in gas you get smoke..... 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 One thing I have found out that applies to all vintage engines I have owned is running multi weight detergent oil is not a problem. I have over 40,000 miles on my current engine with no problems. I have used multi weight oil in Triumph, Norton, Briggs, and many other vintage engines with no problems. Quote
greg g Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 I have been using 15w40 Traveler All Fleet oil from Tractor supply for the past 4 or 5 years. It is diesel rated but also says it's good for heavy duty gasoline engine. 20K and no adverse reactions, idles at 25/30 psi hot runs 42/45 on the highway. It is blended by warren Performance Products. ZDDP is + 1200 PPM Last I bought about 1.50 a quart. It is available in qt, 4 qt and 2.5 gallon jugs. Quote
John Reddie Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 How much Mystery Oil did you add to the fuel? I always add this to my fuel with no smoking problems but I do what the bottle directions indicate. It is 4 ounces of oil for 10 gallons of fuel. It sounds like you may have added to much. If that is the case, it will burn off. Good luck to you. John R Quote
_shel_ny Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 Talking oil in high mileage engines, and rebuilt engines is an apples and oranges situation. Quote
jorswift Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Posted June 2, 2014 How much Mystery Oil did you add to the fuel? I always add this to my fuel with no smoking problems but I do what the bottle directions indicate. It is 4 ounces of oil for 10 gallons of fuel. It sounds like you may have added to much. If that is the case, it will burn off. Good luck to you. John R Yes. I believe this is the cause and cure. I thought I had more gas in the tank, but obviously I didn't. I am going to drive it to the station and fill her up. Also, Mystery Oil is not an oil. It is like sea foam as an additive. Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Here" an interesting read......... http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/motoroil.html Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Another interesting read........ http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/best/detgoil.html Quote
TodFitch Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Another interesting read........ http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/best/detgoil.html Fixed link: http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/best/detgoil.html Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 I've used Valvoline 10 w 40 for many years..........can't say it ever caused any problems. Also have run occasional Mystery Oil in both gas and oil. Lately, I have smoking out the draft tube and oil filler tube. I put straight 30 weight oil in on the last change but haven't driven it much since then. Maybe a ring problem.....I really don't know. Will just live with it for the while. Quote
james49ply Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 (edited) I will not even start my engine unless I plan on driving at least 25 miles. short runs will build up moisture and cause the downdraft tube to smoke, it is the water being steamed off. I use Valvoline 20/50 and do not use any additives. The oil stays clean for the 3,000 miles to the next change Edited June 6, 2014 by james49ply Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 I checked with my cousin who is a pilot and a certified aircraft mechanic. The following is his response to engine oil requirements. The info below applies to flat aircraft engines, like Lycoming and Continentals. Pratt and Whitney jet engines use "Turbine Oil" and round engines use "Radial Engine Oil." We use both straight weight and multi-viscosity, ash-less dispersant, aircraft "grade" oil. Auto engine oil will ruin an airplane engine, but I am not sure about the reverse. In TX where we have hot summers, I always used Aeroshell W100 which was SAE 50 (go figure) and in the winter, I used W80 or SAE 40. When I went further north I would lower the viscosity accordingly. I tried to use multi-viscosity oils a couple of times and my engines always ran hot. The FAA would do a flip if they learned you were using unapproved oil additives like Marvel Mystery Oil, but a lot of older mechanics swore by the stuff. I used it in my Cessna 182 for ten years with no ill effects. But did not use it in my Twin Comanche. Quote
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