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Posted (edited)

post-6773-0-03121000-1395781975_thumb.jpgHello everyone. My name is Virgil, I live in Colorado Springs, and I recently picked up my first street rod project. I am 27, dad, husband, and I was in the Marines from 2005-2011. Ok so about the car. This will be my first complete build. I learned how to weld from my grandad. I learned alot on my own so far but I know there is plenty more for me to learn. I picked up a 1966 Chrysler 383 for $200 bucks that I plan to drop in it. Motor is complete minus intake and carb but I did get all the pulleys, accessories, and all the nuts and bolts the guy could find. Going to keep looking for a 4-speed for it. With all that said and done I am into this project so far for $900 and I am trying to keep it that way. I am in no way saying that I will be taking the cheap route on everything I do. If I need to spend money to do something the right way I will but where I can save I want to. I have seen that a shock relocation on the front of these helps. I dont want to spend $2K on a Mustang 2 front end. I also have seen that the steering will be an issue with my big block. So I have a few questions:

1. What rearend should I be looking for? (trying to stay all Mopar, 383 will be a mild build)

2. How good is the front end on these? What do I need to change/upgrade?

3. Anything I need to know before I start the build?

I plan on doing everything I can myself. I orginally wanted to build a gasser but the more I looked at the body I saw it more of the cruiser for the family. Thanks in advance for everyone's comments and inputs.

Edited by VCustoms
Posted

Check with Rustyhope.com for shock relocation, and disc brake conversion.  As previously posted, B-body Mopar (I used a 69 Roadrunner 8 3/4"unit). 741 case is supposedly the weakest.  If you intend to drive aggressively, you might want to look for a 742 case, or 489 (I think).  Lots of info on the net regarding the differences.  Easy to Google search for this info.  Good luck, and please keep us posted .

Posted

If I started from scratch today I would consider welding the front frame of a Dakota pickup onto the frame of the 48 using the motor, transmission and the rear end and having the drive shaft shorten.  You will have to move back the fire wall 3 inches but that sounds like something your ready to do.

Posted

attachicon.gifResizedImage_1381179604890.jpgHello everyone. My name is Virgil, I live in Colorado Springs, and I recently picked up my first street rod project. I am 27, dad, husband, and I was in the Marines from 2005-2011. Ok so about the car. This will be my first complete build. I learned how to weld from my grandad. I learned alot on my own so far but I know there is plenty more for me to learn. I picked up a 1966 Chrysler 383 for $200 bucks that I plan to drop in it. Motor is complete minus intake and carb but I did get all the pulleys, accessories, and all the nuts and bolts the guy could find. Going to keep looking for a 4-speed for it. With all that said and done I am into this project so far for $900 and I am trying to keep it that way. I am in no way saying that I will be taking the cheap route on everything I do. If I need to spend money to do something the right way I will but where I can save I want to. I have seen that a shock relocation on the front of these helps. I dont want to spend $2K on a Mustang 2 front end. I also have seen that the steering will be an issue with my big block. So I have a few questions:

1. What rearend should I be looking for? (trying to stay all Mopar, 383 will be a mild build)

2. How good is the front end on these? What do I need to change/upgrade?

3. Anything I need to know before I start the build?

I plan on doing everything I can myself. I orginally wanted to build a gasser but the more I looked at the body I saw it more of the cruiser for the family. Thanks in advance for everyone's comments and inputs.

Thanks for your service and welcome to this site. Sure glad your going to power your ride with a Mopar, I wouldn't to have to share the heat for my SBC in my P-15, but I'm old and can handle it. I'm in the process of installing a headliner as we speak, have never done one before so it's kind of interesting. Several folks on this site have been really helpful in guideing me through disk brakes, and other items and  I'm sure they will be more than willing to do the same for you, myself included. So again welcome! :D

Posted

Check with Rustyhope.com for shock relocation, and disc brake conversion.  As previously posted, B-body Mopar (I used a 69 Roadrunner 8 3/4"unit). 741 case is supposedly the weakest.  If you intend to drive aggressively, you might want to look for a 742 case, or 489 (I think).  Lots of info on the net regarding the differences.  Easy to Google search for this info.  Good luck, and please keep us posted .

the 741  case is the smallest  pinion,but by no meens week,,even tho its the smallest  8 3/4 pinion it is still larger then a ford 9  inch,,,a friend had a 741 case in a dart,,with  4.56 gears and a 4 speed   340  motor and slicks,,,beat the snot out of it never had a problem,,,any  8 3/4 will do you just  fine,,,as well will a 8 1/4  B body  rear end,,, dakota rear end diplomat  rear end fits nicely also,,,

Posted

Thanks everyone for your kind words and input. I am planning on having to recess the firewall if needed. Not really wanting to cut off the front of the frame. I have seen alot about the rustyhope.com site so I will be going there for a few things. Will the B-Body rear be too wide for the Plymouth?

Posted (edited)

one 8 3/4 is a bolt in including correct perch width..do some searching on line with your measurements..many folks here measure in  different methods...and use other than stock wheels which again will make your width come into question..do your own measurements just to be sure...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Another Hot Rod.  Cool!  Welcome.

I have an 8.25" rear in my Coupe and it seems plenty stout,.....i.e. haven't broken it yet.

Posted

Don, Thank you for that chart describing the mopar rear end dimensions.  Where did you find an 8.25 rear with a 3.55/1 gear set?   Did you but the gear set separately?

Posted

I bought the gears separately.

don what vehicle did you get that 8 1/4 out of ? there are many applications this rear end fits,,,nice job  finding one with same  perch width,,,

Posted

Don; glad you got a chance to post that "Rear Axle Chart" again, I was beginning to miss it !!!  lol .. :D . Good luck with your build VCustoms, and keep us posted. Welcome to the Forum !!!  Cass, alias littlemo...

Posted

Don; glad you got a chance to post that "Rear Axle Chart" again, I was beginning to miss it !!!  lol .. :D . Good luck with your build VCustoms, and keep us posted. Welcome to the Forum !!!  Cass, alias littlemo...

Actually the chart can be found in the resources section of this webpage but most folks ask before searching.

Posted

Ford 8.8 from Explorer works too and has same bolt pattern. Post 1997(?) have disc brakes. The Ranger Station site has a chart with door codes so you can see what axle came with the car so you don't have to pull the rear or hunt for a tag on the rear at the junkyard.

Posted

I put the Explorer rear end in my '41 and it works great. However, you do have to relocate the spring perches and the rear disc brakes will not work with the standard wheels without removing material from the brake calipers.

Jim Yergin

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