Started the teardown, and now the build up.

[casper50]

A few more parts ready for bodywork.

 

[mm289]

Surprised if there is any "sand" left in Alaska the amount of work you have been doing

 

lookin good

 

MM

[casper50]

unlike most people that sandblast i reuse mine a lot before I dump it and buy new.

[dale]

What kind of rearend are you planning on with disc brakes ?

[casper50]

Stock with the disc brakes.  The kit bolts right on.

[dale]

When I tore down my 46 Ply convert I assumed a previous owner had welded it in.. With all the bolts around the top of the dash and the larger two on the sides mine is now removable and seems to be pretty solid. I painted the dash, steering wheel and door trim the same dark maroon as the rest of the car. They sure have alot of chrome for a lower priced car.

[casper50]

next to last batch that needs blasting.

[casper50]

Some progress this "weekend".  First coat of filler/primer and what I'm dreading is the 1st of many skim coats of body filler.  Didn't take long for me to remember why I hate this stuff.  Goes everywhere but where it's suppose to.

[Dave72dt]

Certainly looks like a big job when skimming the entire body at once. I tend to work a panel or section at a time if I can, perfecting it and then moving on to the next. Seams and body lines are natural break lines for separating areas to work on. Breaks one big job into smaller ones and helps to focus your attention on getting it right, not missing an area that will show up when the color goes on.

You're also going to want to get the doors, trunk back on and gapped so you end up with smooth transitions from panel to panel. You don't want to have spent a ton of time and work getting quarters smooth only to find they don't blend into the doors and trunk. If you're welding the rear fenders on, do it now before any more filler goes on. The heat will soften the filler that's near the weld area and make it useless. If bolting them on, that seam will also need to be watched.

I used to hate the sanding. Now, it's something I relax with when doing, not forcing it or hurrying it. It's great for stress reduction if you let it. The time and patience you spend on the sanding and prep will reflect itself in the finished paint. When you do this for a hobby, the only time constraints are those you put on yourself. I'll keep watching your build. I think you're doing great.

[mm289]

That thing is gonna look better than it did when it came outta the factory - well done fella

 

Paul.

[casper50]

Sanded down to 220 grit.  Take care of a few low spots and then the last coat of primer/filler and sand down to 320.  Then on to the fenders, doors and hood.  My shop looks like a 1920's Oklahoma dust storm hit it.

[Dave72dt]

Looks like my floor does most of the time. It's getting cleaned up (again)this weekend prior to color going on the current project. You're sure making a lot of progress in a short time.

[casper50]

the final, (hopefully), coat of primer filler is on.  I'm leaving the body at this stage and will work on the fenders, doors, hood and smaller stuff to get all to the same point.  Photos tomorrow.  The shop is a bit hazy right now.

[casper50]

as promised. I don't know why the last photo isn't upright.  Tried everything to fix it.  Sorry.

Edited February 15, 2016 by casper50

[deathbound]

Looking great, just needs about 3"-4" off the top.....

[casper50]

I'm not brave enough but I do agree.

[fstfish66]

comming along nicely

[casper50]

Doors are at 220 with a primer coat on top ready for 400 grit.  On to the rear fenders.

[Frank Elder]

Very nice, have you discussed your color choice yet......I have CRS. and I'm too lazy to read the whole thread...lol.

[casper50]

I think I mentioned somewhere in here that it's going to be a very dark green.

[Frank Elder]

I saw a silverado with a green so dark I thought it black.....until the sun caught it and the green shone through.

[casper50]

Frank do you happen to know what year?

[knuckleharley]

Frank do you happen to know what year?

If you are just interested in a pretty dark green and not a specific Mopar green,you might want to look at a paint chart for 49-51 Fords. There is a Hunter Green that is a dark metallic that was also used on Kaisers and several other cars that is very pretty. I live up a dirt road,or I would use it on a couple of my cars.

 

Rust-o-leum even has a Hunter Green if you want to buy pre-mixed,although it doesn't look to me like it has the metallic in it.

[casper50]

Not looking for Mopar original or a metallic.  Just looking for a dark green that is almost black.  Closest so far is Ford rain forest green.  But, it's not dark enough.  I was thinking of putting black sealer under it.

Edited February 19, 2016 by casper50

[Frank Elder]

Frank do you happen to know what year?

Sorry....within the last 5 years.