Rear End Swap

[deponceau]

Hello everyone I am a new member to this forum and have a question that hopefully be answered.

 

I own a 1948 Dodge truck and would like to swap out the rear end for better drivability and ease of service for the rear brakes. My rear end is in need of a complete rebuild(brakes included)and feel this would be a more cost effective way to go. Just to service the rear brakes on the truck the cost of shoes and wheel cylinder is close to $300 due to the need of 4 wheel cylinders. On top of the fact I still need to purchase a puller for the rear drums. This is why I feel swapping out would be more cost effective, any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated  

[Jeff Balazs]

There have been several threads on this topic which you can access by using the search function.

I did a Grand Cherokee axle swap and gained rear discs as well as a 3.55 ratio. It is relatively easy but involves a bit more work than a Cherokee drum brake swap. Either way there is plenty of info on each swap. I believe that the earlier trucks used a different type of u-joint than my 52 model and this complicates things some. You will need to read up on this aspect.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Hi and welcome.

I paid $60 for the rear shoes and about that for rebuild kits for the four rear wheel cylinders.

That being said, I'm still considering the Jeep axle swap.

 

Pics of the truck please.

[pflaming]

If function is more important than originality, then the axle swap is a no brainer. I went with a 3.73 and wish I had put in a 3.53 yet I'm very pleased with what I did get, just would have liked a little higher speed on the highway. I run easily at 65 and a nice engine whine, with a 3.53 same speed but quieter cab environment. 

 

I considered theT-5, but when I reviewed my driving/shifting habits with the truck, all I wish I had was a 3.53 for a higher interstate speed. The T-5 gives that but with one more shift. NOW, if wanted to pull a small boat or small trailer house, then the       T-5 would be very nice for one could then drive it like a truck, use the gears to maintain RPM and torque on a long hill.

 

So to me use determines need.

Edited February 2, 2014 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

before you get too involved here and get to reading terms like backing plate to backing plate measurement...just remember that is almost a useless measurement....reason...while the old cars had 2 inch brakes....,modern brakes are a bit wider and the very width is usually in the brakes set inboard direction..thus the baking plates measurement difference...AND IF you have all intentions of running your stock wheels..then the measurement of the axle at the mounting surfaces left to right will duplicate the very rear track width to keep you factory profile...use of Mopar and some Ford axles will benefit you greatly for the use of the same bolt pattern..axle charts can be found on the forum by typing key words into the search engine at the top of the Pilot house page..

[NiftyFifty]

92 Jeep YJ was a great fit, cut the old perches, welded on new and all done in a day. I'm not sure if your driveshaft will work better then mine, but I was dealing with 1 ton vs 1/2. I was also under the assumption stock 1/2 to was 4 1/4 bolt pattern so that would allow stock rims too. I'd do it in a heat beat again... Better brakes, easier to get parts, and a much better gear set option for highway use. I also highly recommend the T-5 swap

[tom'sB2B]

I used an axle from an '89 jeep Cherokee with a 3.55 ratio . I have a three speed transmission and I can now cruise at a easy 55-60 and second is still low enough to make it up a steep hill. A search of the forum will give you everything you need to know...gear ratio, year and model of axle, perches, pinion angle, u joints, bolt pattern, ect.

[1952 Fargo]

There have been several threads on this topic which you can access by using the search function.

I did a Grand Cherokee axle swap and gained rear discs as well as a 3.55 ratio. It is relatively easy but involves a bit more work than a Cherokee drum brake swap. Either way there is plenty of info on each swap. I believe that the earlier trucks used a different type of u-joint than my 52 model and this complicates things some. You will need to read up on this aspect.

 

Jeff

 

Hello everyone I am a new member to this forum and have a question that hopefully be answered.

 

I own a 1948 Dodge truck and would like to swap out the rear end for better drivability and ease of service for the rear brakes. My rear end is in need of a complete rebuild(brakes included)and feel this would be a more cost effective way to go. Just to service the rear brakes on the truck the cost of shoes and wheel cylinder is close to $300 due to the need of 4 wheel cylinders. On top of the fact I still need to purchase a puller for the rear drums. This is why I feel swapping out would be more cost effective, any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated  

I have a complete rear axle for sale complete with rebuilt brakes and bearings. Brian     e-mail me at brianknapp@live.ca