Dan Babb Posted December 31, 2013 Report Posted December 31, 2013 I installed new rubbers and a regulator on the driver side. Now I can't get the vent window to stand up straight When I roll up the window, it rubs on the vent glass at the top The window is straight and over to the side as far as it will go. It rolls up straight too I've beat on the vent window to get the top over into the channel a far as it will go. Other than bringing it to a glass shop to have the glass cut to eliminate the interference, I'm out of ideas. Help...it's driving me nuts! Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) I have the same issue, but not as bad, I think it has to do with aligning everything (including the roll up), but haven't worried about it. All my glass was directly patterned of my original glass and it all lined up, so IMO it's an adjustment someplace. My windows are down 95% of the time anyway. The wing window won't adjust all that much as far as I know. Just so you know you can remove some glass yourself with a belt sander (unless you have a polished edge). That's all a glass shop would do. Edited December 31, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote
MBF Posted January 1, 2014 Report Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) Are you sure that the wing glass and the front rail on the main window are fully seated in their channels? If they are it looks like one of the vent window patterns is off as there is more overhang on the top of the frame than at the bottom. Where did you buy the vent window rubber? Mike Edited January 1, 2014 by MBFowler Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted January 1, 2014 Report Posted January 1, 2014 I had read somewhere....probably here....that the Steele rubber product for these did not fit very well. I got mine from Roberts and they fit perfectly. I was actually blown away by how well they fit as I was expecting problems. One little trick I used was to use RZ50 dry lube spray on these before I installed them. This stuff really helped make things go into place easily. It could just be that some of the rubber is not seated correctly. You may have to pull it out and put it back in being careful to make certain it is seating properly. Hope this helps, Jeff Quote
HanksB3B Posted January 1, 2014 Report Posted January 1, 2014 The wing windows were set in what looked like tar paper. My #$@&^ glass man set mine in silicone and they were a bit off at the top (like yours). It looks to me like yours are the original glass in this tar paper. see how the glass extends about an eight of an inch past the frame at the bottom ? It's supposed to be the same at the top. Remove the windows and use gasoline to loosen the bond between the glass and tar paper and start fresh. Not sure what this glazier's paper is called, what is the modern day substitute or where to get it. Just don't use silicone. Hank Quote
gramps1951 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Posted January 1, 2014 the product is called channel tape and can come in different thickness . most glass shops will have this in stock. Quote
gramps1951 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Posted January 1, 2014 to help remove use a heat gun there is a tool to remove the glass from the vent frame and to install it but most people will not have one or need one . it is a vent glass puller it can pull the glass on to the frame too but in all my years I never needed one. by the way heat the frame not the glass. Quote
Dan Babb Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Posted January 2, 2014 If I heat the frame, do you think I cam move the glass a bit without pulling it out completely? I don't need it to move much. Will the tar sealant hold the glass again after it cools down? Quote
HanksB3B Posted January 2, 2014 Report Posted January 2, 2014 The wing windows were set in what looked like tar paper. My #$@&^ glass man set mine in silicone and they were a bit off at the top (like yours). It looks to me like yours are the original glass in this tar paper. see how the glass extends about an eight of an inch past the frame at the bottom ? It's supposed to be the same at the top. Remove the windows and use gasoline to loosen the bond between the glass and tar paper and start fresh. Not sure what this glazier's paper is called, what is the modern day substitute or where to get it. Just don't use silicone. Hank to help remove use a heat gun there is a tool to remove the glass from the vent frame and to install it but most people will not have one or need one . it is a vent glass puller it can pull the glass on to the frame too but in all my years I never needed one. by the way heat the frame not the glass. Just don't mix the two methods. Hank Quote
gramps1951 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Posted January 2, 2014 the glass will most likely come all the way out. the channel tape may tare that will depend on how tight the glass fits the frame it you use a channel tape that is too thin the glass can fall out and one too thick it wont fit or the channel tape will tare. sometimes you can use the tape over again no telling till you try it. you can take it out try the fit with out any tape to see how it lines up with the window it will be in farther because the tape is not there but atleast you will know if your window regulator needs adjusting. some. Quote
gramps1951 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Posted January 2, 2014 now that I have reread one of your posts not sure if they used channel tape to hold your vent glass or a sealer of some type like urethane of silicone or what from the picture I cant tell . if they glued it in it may be more work to get out razor blades between the glass and frame just take your time and don't bend the frame. Quote
HanksB3B Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 +1 on the 2 posts above. Now I know it's called channel tape. Hank Quote
Dan Babb Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Posted January 20, 2014 I was able to get this lined up without pulling the glass or visiting a glass shop. I was holding myself back by wanting to use the original holes for the screws. I simply removed the screws, then pulled the bottom edge closer to the window. That gave me more room to slide the top of the vent window forward and gave me the clearance I needed. The top two screw holes wound up in the right spot...just had to drill a new hole for the bottom screw near the window. It's close, but the window rolls down without hitting the vent. Project done. Only have to get the truck detailed and it will be ready for the auction in March. Quote
Bobacuda Posted August 29, 2015 Report Posted August 29, 2015 Been spending a frustrating day on my doors, only to have the same problem with the vent window alignment. My vent window is lower at the latch than at the front of the window, making it closer to the window at the top than the bottom - the angle is visible at a glance. When the holes in the vent window frame are lined up, the vent window is at an angle and will not even match up to its own rubber at the top. The window rolls up and down smoothly and "looks right." But that vent is obviously not aligned rignt. How the heck does fixed holes in fixed metal get out of alignment? I will try another some more tomorrow, then its out comes the drill and new holes in the truck. This is frustrating. Anyone else go through this and have any other solution than drilling new holes? Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted August 29, 2015 Report Posted August 29, 2015 How about some photos? The first thing that occurs to me is that perhaps the glass is not positioned quite right inside the frame. These are a bit fiddly but when everything is lined up correctly it is pretty obvious. Jeff Quote
Desotodav Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 Photos would be good (like Jeff said). Could it be that you just need to adjust your sliding window? Quote
Bobacuda Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 I'll try to get some photos tomorrow. The vent window metal frame is lower at the bottom towards the sliding window. When you close the window, there is a little more than 1/8" gap between the slider and vent and essentially no gap at the top. The metal frame of the vent window is actually higher at the top toward the sliding window than normal. There is about 1/8 to 1/4' gap between the metal glass frame and the "weather strip" rubber set in the metal frame. The overall vent window has a definite tilt, up in the front, down in the rear. Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 Are there now 2 threads about this problem? Quote
Bobacuda Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 Don - I started with this thread because Don Babb appeared to have the same problem, which he solved by drilling new holes, I am looking for insight and suggestions. I keep thinking there has to be something I am overlooking and this thread seemed like the place to start. I created the second thread based on the comment, "Do not overtighten the nut on the bottom of the vent window." I got the warning, but what is the consequence? Is it perhaps that it creates the vent window frame warp problem? Does it mean the window will not open? I have no idea, so I was hoping whoever wrote the "overtighten warning" would tell us what the consequences are. 2 Quote
wallytoo Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 Are there now 2 threads about this problem? not recent ones. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 30, 2015 Report Posted August 30, 2015 well I have never seen a vent frame that needed to be drilled with new relocation of mounting holes to go back onto the very same body it was removed from..am sure it was done as a quick fix but there is a underlying problem yet addressed... Quote
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