Maintaining and repairing our air compressors

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

If this topic actually belongs in off topic I fully understand.  Guessing its on topic because we have no better tool to fix our cars than our air compressor for air tools ect.

 

Anyway here is my situation.  I inherited the use of an air compressor which is approximately 20 years old or older.  It is a large 110 motor on a 2 stage compressor,,,rolls around on 2 wheels and the handle as they all have.

 

Long story short this was on our farm for its useful life and Dad didnt believe in doing much preventative work on nothing,,,barely fixed what absolutely had to to run.  NEVER changed the oil in the compressor, EVER.  Last few years it ran but had a hard time starting, especially in the winter.  on the south end of a 80 foot shed(fartherest from fuse box) it wont start in winter and its all 12 ga wire.  next to fuse box it would.  Shed is now gone 5 years and it still starts so hard it trips breakers in garage outlets.

 

Also 5 years ago it didnt work any more, compress air, I took the head off and a reed valve was broke.  Bought new parts and never got it together.  90 year old dad took it home to his house and he put it together.  Poor eyesight and not good in dementia dept.  he has since passed but compressor doesnt work like it used to when it did work. Takes too long to pump up and low pressure .  Also air is blowing OUT the air intake filter.  Dont know if he got it together right,,,or even put in new parts where needed or if so.  I think its like a 2 or 3 hp motor on it

 

would oil get too thick to let it start? what would cause air to blow back out the intake filter?  why cant a outlet right under the fuse box carry enuf juice to .  Do I need a heavy duty 8ga wire and a 40 amp breaker to run?

Edited December 5, 2013 by Grdpa's 50 Dodge

[Tim Keith]

What brand and model is the compressor ?   Most can be overhauled.

 

Tim   

[Plymouthy Adams]

get a hard start capacitor for the unit...change the oil and let the big dog eat...

[Don Coatney]

If you do not have a manual for your air compressor get one. They are available on line for most every compressor ever built. If you have positive pressure at the air inlet there is most likely internal damage. Does your compressor have an unloader that allowes it to start and come up to speed unloaded. do you have 220 volt power avalaible and is the motor dual voltage? The nomenclature tag on the motor will indicate such. If so switch to 220 and you will bave no more starting issues. Been there done that.

[wayfarer]

I really don't think that a 2 or 3hp motor on 110v is very compatible with a 2-stage compressor. In fact, not sure that I have ever seen less than 5hp on 2-stage.

Best starting point is to copy all of the information from both data plates and let us have a look-see.  As Don mentioned, with the compressor data plate info you should be able to get a service manual and from there you can look for parts, or, find a repair shop.

I think you will be needing a 5hp or larger motor, and, 220v would be preferred.

After you have the motor sorted out then deal with the electric service required.

[Don Coatney]

I really don't think that a 2 or 3hp motor on 110v is very compatible with a 2-stage compressor. In fact, not sure that I have ever seen less than 5hp on 2-stage.

I suspect it may be a two cylinder and not a two stage much like this 2HP that I just replaced.

 

[Don Coatney]

Data tag will look like this

 

[chopt50wgn]

A small compressor like that is good for blowing off parts and maybe filling a tire or two, but a lot depends on what you plan to do. If you are saving it for sentimental reasons, that's one thing. But if you are looking to use this in your shop, you may want to just bite the bullet and move up to a newer one.

[Dave72dt]

A two stage compressor will have large diameter cyl and a smaller cyl. Two cyl the same diameter is simply a two cyl compressor

[wayfarer]

...words do have meanings...

 

Fully agree on the need to have a good-hard look at the intended use for any compressor. So many folks simply expect too much from a too-small unit not understanding the air consumption part and relying on hp as the be-all/end-all.

[Don Coatney]

It seems that horse power is now based on  "peak" power, not continuous. It takes "X" ammount of amps to get "X" ammount of watts to matter what you do. No motor can do otherwise. Volts X Amps=Watts, Watts / Volts=Amps. My old compressor motor has a data plate indicating 2 HP at the given RPM. (one horse power is exactly 746 watts of power) My new compressor is advertised as a 2 HP but they advertise that rating at "peak" meanng full load for a very short duration.

 

A few years ago Sears was (in my opinion falsley) advertising a 6 HP compressor that ran on 110 volts. A 20 amp 110 volt circuit will not handle anywhere near 7746 watts. On a 20A breaker at 125 volts your looking at a max of 3.3 HP without the breaker tripping.

 

Bottom line is as (stated above by wayfarer) that HP should not be the determining factor in buying a compressor.
.

 

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Sorry this took so long to get done.  Had some important stuff to get done.  Didnt know this was moved to off topic either.  How do we know when this happens?

 

Anyway I think you guys are right,,,I was wrong wrong wrong.

 

It is a 2 hp says 26 amps on the 110 side.  Think it also says it can be 220 as the plate reads 110/220.

 

Compressor is a Sanborn and I do believe it is 2 cyl with both being same size side by side. Model 104A200-22 serial #68416 mounted on a 22 gallon tank says pressure 120#

 

Hope this helps sort out what we have and where we are going.  I bought the new read valves at the compressor store I think.  Might have been it was put back together with the old broken ones or something else not too correct. 

 

I am guessing for 26 amps of draw I need a 30 amp breaker,,at least, will have to check if we have any at this house.  Wiring it 220 would work if we have a couple spare spaces in the box.  It would limit where it can be used.

 

On a side note I do have a spool,,,yes I said spool,,,of spare hose.Its either 1/4 or 3/8 and thinking its like 1500'or longer.  Was going to use it on another project that is now gone.  Ends can be put on easily,the last one I did I used my pex rings so didnt have nasty hose clamps to work around and snag.  Wish I could trade somebody 100' or more,,,for side glass for passenger door and or windsheild glass for my 50 Coronet.  Its Goodyear hose that came fresh from the factory

 

It was pretty continuous when it was newer, I used it on a thunder gun pressure washer for hours on end back then to power wash a house and prep for paint.

 

What is this hard start capacitor spoke of here?  Any other ideas how I can use it effectively here?  As I said before it has started very hard for years and years now,,,colder it gets the worse it is.

[Dave72dt]

There should be a check valve in the compressor to tank line that prevents back pressure from the tank to the compressor and a bleed off valve on the pressure switch so it isn't starting under load. Running it on an extension cord of too great a length or too small a gauge will also cause a hard start. Reed valves in backwards or the plate flipped or damaged reeds will have the air pumping out the filter

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Have not heard anymore about this story, but appears to be relavent.

 

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/quebec-man-dies-after-losing-leg-in-weekend-explosion-1.2457103