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Posted (edited)

Looking for the sheet metal clutch cover that goes on the bottom of the bell housing. 53-54 dodge. Non fluid drive. Don't know what other cars will work.

The housing is 13 inches long.

I've never had one for it. Been running it open.

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Edited by 53dodgekustom
Posted

His car may well be non Fluid Drive.  '53 through at least '55 Dodge and '55 Plymouth standard trans V8 cars used the Fluid Drive housing with a long sleeve or spacer to hold the throwout bearing that took up the same space as the fluid coupling.   6 cylinder cars may have used the same setup.

 

Paul H

Posted

His car may well be non Fluid Drive. '53 through at least '55 Dodge and '55 Plymouth standard trans V8 cars used the Fluid Drive housing with a long sleeve or spacer to hold the throwout bearing that took up the same space as the fluid coupling. 6 cylinder cars may have used the same setup.

Paul H

Yes. All 53-54 dodges use the longer bell hosing. However plymouth standards use the short one in 53-54.

My collar.

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Posted (edited)

So now I'm kind of confused. If the Plymouths have the long input shafts...how do you plug one into, for instance, a '48 Dodge with the shorter length bell housing. ? Does not sound like such a bolt-in.

Ooops never mind...I think I got it/figured it out.

k.

Edited by Lumpy
Posted

So now I'm kind of confused. If the Plymouths have the long input shafts...how do you plug one into, for instance, a '48 Dodge with the shorter length bell housing. ? Does not sound like such a bolt-in.

Ooops never mind...I think I got it/figured it out.

k.

You have to tare half the transmission apart and switch the input shafts. I had to do this back in 2008. The overdrive was out of a 52 plymouth standard shift and my three speed had the longer shaft. I guess you could switch bell housings and move your crossmember too. Ha.

DSCF4664.jpg

Posted (edited)

Seems like any car that was available with a v8 used the long housing no matter what engine and trans combo. 53-56 dodge and 55-56 plymouth.

Edited by 53dodgekustom
Posted

Okay, good to know. Does not sound like a big problem, just some extra work.

 

k.

Posted (edited)

You have to tare half the transmission apart and switch the input shafts. I had to do this back in 2008. The overdrive was out of a 52 plymouth standard shift and my three speed had the longer shaft. I guess you could switch bell housings and move your crossmember too. Ha.

DSCF4664.jpg

What input shafts? That's a nice calender though.

Edited by Frank Elder
Posted

Well, looking at everything involved I decided to just pay the $130 to have Fatman modify them for me. I'm getting down to the wire on time and modifying those would easily take a whole Saturday. I was kind of weary on bending them. Seemed like a fair price to modify them. 

i could be wrong, but  im sure they are not going to  rebend your steering arms,,all applications are different,and  they have no idea how far up or down the  rack  is positioned,, but u never know  do you know are they going to  re-reem them  also ?

Posted

i could be wrong, but im sure they are not going to rebend your steering arms,,all applications are different,and they have no idea how far up or down the rack is positioned,, but u never know do you know are they going to re-reem them also ?

I'm running the stock steering box. And the spindles move the arms up 3inches. So they should know were it's all at. The instructions say you just bend the one so it has a 3ich drop and swap sides and flip over to take advantage of the one that already has a drop in it. Then ream them.

Posted

I'm running the stock steering box. And the spindles move the arms up 3inches. So they should know were it's all at. The instructions say you just bend the one so it has a 3ich drop and swap sides and flip over to take advantage of the one that already has a drop in it. Then ream them.

ok kool   ide have them  modify them  also,,,i may have them  modify them  and reem them  ill just re bend them,, once  i can  get  in the garage  if thsi  weather ever lets up,,,, yours  is comming along nicely,,

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well as of today I have a completed front suspension, steering and brakes on my car. It took a little bit of figuring. Here's what it all entailed. 

 

Firstly, Mike from Scarebird had told me that I will probably have to space my caliper brackets out because the measurements I had given him from my hub were offset from 49-52 cars. He supplied washers for this.

 

I also had the predicament of having to use the special countersunk bolts that Fatman supplies for the steering arms so everything has clearance when your turn the wheel at full lock. Fatman suggest to drill and tap your spindle for the larger bolts so they bolt in through your steering arms on the backside of the spindle. But this left me with no way to bolt my caliper bracket on!!

 

So I machined up some spacers and threaded them for the fatman bolt and welded them to the caliper bracket. Then drilled out the spindle and bolted the whole thing together.

 

Mocking things up in the beginning. Just trying to figure out my caliper spacing so the rotor was centered. You can see the scarebird suplied washers and bolts.

 

 D1D543A1-92E2-4B53-8039-B324AC82789C_zps

 

My spacers I made for the bottom two fatman bolts. I just made a spacer with a clearance hole for the top bolt.

 

2973C808-6211-48A9-80C6-00B73ACDB281_zps

 

I then drilled out my spindles just enough to clear the bolts and did the same to the caliper brackets. Then bolted the spacers to the bracket so I could weld them. 

 

C4B399C9-F458-4CD5-A130-64DD8A32BBD4_zps

 

Here's the steering arms after they came back from fatman for modifications. As you can see they milled and countersunk them for the special bolts and bent them for me.

 

 6D72FDD2-1969-42EA-BCA1-15DEBFBD9B8B_zps

 

Everything bolted together. Don't mind my ugly welds! I was worried that the bolts would be to short but they were perfect. 

 

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Edited by 53dodgekustom
Posted

The completed brake assembly.

 

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The backside.

 

D206AD1F-1071-4E3B-B08F-3679810B8126_zps

 

Adjusted the steering box and put the tie-rods on. Everything looks good. Set my steering stops and the turning radius looks good. Goes up and down with no issues!

 

5D664BB8-8525-49D5-B578-F612E8E1C5C4_zps

Posted

I have also been re-sealing the motor and getting it ready to paint.

 

Powerhouse.

 

49BC0FDC-0B1F-4D6C-A8BE-FE936FB7D3BC_zps

 

Engine junk.

 

96940E77-B74F-485C-9971-90E8DA8FACC9_zps

 

Made myself a mini paintbooth so I hopefully won't be painting the whole shop when i do the engine.

 

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Thanks for looking.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm about a week behind you on my engine. How did you clean it? Looks very good. Will be watching. 

Edited by pflaming
Posted

That's what I'm doing, wire wheels and a sharp scraper for the hard stuff. Will remove the front motor mount, timing gear cover etc and get them cleaned and painted. 

 

I like your paint booth, got to do something like that myself or lower it on a pair of car dollies and roll it out the door. Probably do that. Nice to have a shop that opens to the alley. Sure wish the city would let me extend my concrete shop floor out into the alley! 

Posted

I have also been re-sealing the motor and getting it ready to paint.

 

Powerhouse.

 

49BC0FDC-0B1F-4D6C-A8BE-FE936FB7D3BC_zps

 

Engine junk.

 

 

 

Made myself a mini paintbooth so I hopefully won't be painting the whole shop when i do the engine.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Is that front sump oil pan stock? I thought that was a truck thing.....

Posted

Wow that steering arm setup turned out nice! Lookin good man. I've been workin on my wagon here and there, just got my rear spring perches and everything to finish the front disc brake swap yesterday.

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