Old Ray Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 If re- registration is such a major pain in the rear then it sounds like the Jag route needs to be the focus if that is the intended goal. Me thinks, ….reading between the lines (maybe incorrectly), that the way he means to do this is register the stock six as a running car and THEN, if necessary swap in the jag under the cover of darkness. And NO I’m not suggesting or condoning any unlawful act, ….I have already been spanked severely for that elsewhere ! sig......You’re a courageous and brave man ……but it can be done, ……mostly with perseverance, patience, time and money (in the reverse order). Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 WELCOME! What a cool project. I hope you go with the Jag setup. I'm thinking that 6 cyl is laid over toward the passenger side and may yield enough clearance for the steering column. And as others have said, Mopar offset engines to address the same issue in the first V8 cars. By the looks of the floor pan, you will be faced with some repair. When addressing that and accommodating a new trans tunnel, modifying the firewall (if required) will not be much more work. And, for what it's worth, my 40 Plymouth sedan's drum to drum dimension is 59". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted October 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 I have to say all this encouragement and the measurements so far push me towards the jag set up straight from the beginning. I think I´ll set myself a limited time period to get the flatty working again but with the end aim being the jag install. (assuming its allowed) heres a pic of the jag engine from the front . I´m not sure how offset it is. the distributor could be notched into the inner wing as it takes about 5 inches of width on its own the thing in the front of the fan is the oil cooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Here is info on a 41 I believe that is similar to the 39. Maybe it will give you a little idea of how the original setup is. You have a great project there..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ray Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I’m not suggesting or condoning any unlawful act, (assuming its allowed) As Mom said, when dealing with bureaucrats anywhere, it is much easier to ask for forgiveness then permission, don’t ask! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 wayfarer, there are disadvantages in using the jag set up, basically its a very complex car. I have everything still, the loom was taken out intact and its full of extras that I really don´t need or want, electric roof, mirrors, windows, central locking, ride stabilizer, headlight washers! , auto ride control and all that rubbish. at the moment I have no idea how to do what I would need to do to reinstall it ...I have a manual!...but it is all a bit scary. also the rear diff has a bad reputation for eating bearings, however mine seems to be ok so far, it has 60000km on the clock all this preliminary stuff is a big feasibility study..it is also very nice to know that people will back me either way, as I doubt i would be capable of this project without a decent forum behind me If the electrics are unplugged, it should be the same as if the window (or whatever) was simply not being used...unless of course there is some odd-ball feed back, but, in that vintage car I would not expect that level of sophistication. The ride control is likely the most convoluted of the equipment but, unplugged, would it not just think that the car is stationary? Hhhmmmmm... Although we are a bit distant we are all eager to offer what help we can via a bunch of electrons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Sig, welcome from Oz.........good to see another old Dodge being brought back to life......my 1940 Oz Dodge has been a hot rod since 1973, but I degress.........I know you already HAVE the Jag & bits but you may find that the better version to use is from an XJ6 Mk 1/2 or 3(maybe Mk3, not 100% sure.......the reason I say this is that the independent front end from the XJ6 can easily be i8nstalled in a 30/40's US car chassis due to the way its unbolts from the Jag, also the Mk 10/E Type thru to at least Mk2 XJ6 uses an independent rear end with inboard mounted discs, 4 coil overs etc all mounted into an unboltable "cage" that can be easily mounted in the 30/40's US car chassis......I have seen a few used in late 30's mopars here in Oz and they are a fairly common adaption into Fords and Chevs going from the mid 30's up to late 40's using the cage still.........the later Jag front and rear ends whilst maybe quite a good setup in a Jag are not as user friendly to mount in other chassis......I have a mate who has a Mk2 XJ6 Jag front & rear in his 1940 Ford Coupe and it was a very neat and tidy installation.......am not trying to put the mocker on you, just trying to give some advice.......lol......whichever way you go it will be a neat car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) Sig, welcome from Oz.........good to see another old Dodge being brought back to life......my 1940 Oz Dodge has been a hot rod since 1973, but I degress.........I know you already HAVE the Jag & bits but you may find that the better version to use is from an XJ6 Mk 1/2 or 3(maybe Mk3, not 100% sure.......the reason I say this is that the independent front end from the XJ6 can easily be i8nstalled in a 30/40's US car chassis due to the way its unbolts from the Jag, also the Mk 10/E Type thru to at least Mk2 XJ6 uses an independent rear end with inboard mounted discs, 4 coil overs etc all mounted into an unboltable "cage" that can be easily mounted in the 30/40's US car chassis......I have seen a few used in late 30's mopars here in Oz and they are a fairly common adaption into Fords and Chevs going from the mid 30's up to late 40's using the cage still.........the later Jag front and rear ends whilst maybe quite a good setup in a Jag are not as user friendly to mount in other chassis......I have a mate who has a Mk2 XJ6 Jag front & rear in his 1940 Ford Coupe and it was a very neat and tidy installation.......am not trying to put the mocker on you, just trying to give some advice.......lol......whichever way you go it will be a neat car......regards,Andy Douglas Edited October 28, 2013 by Andydodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) thanks robert thats great, really useful, but I´m surprised the cross members arent drawn on (where the prop shaft goes through) heres a pic I found on google showing the chassis as I understand it Ray I think Mom was right. spain is overrun with paper pushers , god alone knows what will happen when it reaches our shores! wayfarer, yep thats what I´m hoping, but I kind of don´t want to cut anything from the massive loom (in 3 parts) until I actually hear the engine running, then trial and error mixed with info from the manual should indicate which wires can be pulled out. andy, great sedan there, its always nice to see pix of the thing as there is very little on the google searches. also I´m trying to figure out the stance that I want.wheel combo etc. and yes I´d heard that the older jags are more user friendly, and I looked for one but immediately the scrap value was about 2000€. to be honest the fabrication on the chassis for extra supports etc doesnt worry me at all as its easy to weld the thicker steel and both front and rear cross members contain the whole suspension so it ought to be quite straight forward...if not normal. the trick will be to make any chassis changes look like they are stock, to confuse the inspectors here! Edited October 28, 2013 by sig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 quick question!, would a 54 chrysler new yorker fall under the umbrella of this forum? its mopar v8 not sure on the limits of the forum. still waiting for info from NJ on the dodge and in the meantime I´ve been window shopping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 The 54 Chrysler New Yorker, would fit on this forum very nice, even a airport tug with a Chrysler engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 well thats a good job Robert because I´ve just put a deposit down on this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Has something become of the 39 or have you gone mad and want two projects going at the same time? From the single photo the 54 looks pretty good, what are the plans for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 no I have actually gone mad! the 39 is still sat at the port for some reason, so the theory is if I send 2 over it works out cheaper for the container??..also this one could be sold on straight away on entry in the country to some rock n rollers, which will pay for the 39. okk thats the theory tha I´ll tell my mum and wife, and it depends wholly on not falling in love with both at first sight!! the chrysler boasts 18000 miles and complete with the hemi etc...cost 1500 dollars!...impolite no to I´d say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Reddie Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Blind man here. Sorry for the front wheel reference. I go in Wednesday this wek to evaluate my vision. Everything in my left eye is cloudy. Discovered this when I was in California on the road trip. I believe eye surgery will be required and I dont look forward to that pun intended. Don, Good luck with your eye problem. I have cataracts and will need to have them removed in the near future. Part of the joys of advancing age. John R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ray Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 so the theory is if I send 2 over it works out cheaper for the container??.. By the size of that Chrysler, you might need a bigger container or maybe even a bigger ship.! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 oh my goodness, I´ve just looked it up and its wheel base is about 6 inches more than the dodge!, and I thought the dodge was massive. never mind the boat, I´m gonna need a bigger house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Well, the price is right on the Chrysler! And, getting some extra cash to help with the '39 is good planning in my book. In the whole scheme of things, the 54 Chrysler is not all that big. Compared to something like a 59 Chrysler wagon it is down right small... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Hi chaps!, I´m still here and still waiting!, we have an urgent / difficult problem that I don´t understand and I hope you pros, can shed some light on the matter please. the Vin number on the chrysler newyorker is different to the paperwork. but I´ve been told that there are various numbers dotted around the car and its simply a matter of finding the right one!!!..(this sounds strange to me but could I suppose be true), the seller says this I have been told that these numbers are often below the valve covers (?) on the passenger side. But you will need a person (a mechanic is best) who is willing to get dirty, and they should have some tools because the numbers could be behind a engine part, such as the generator. They will also be on the outside of the frame. (Generally somewhere behind the driver?) But you will need to lift the car. is there any truth to this or is it a scam?..its the v8 hemi firepower engine on a 54 newyorker. any pointers would be very helpful indeed, otherwise they won´t let me export or import the car cheers sig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 heres the found Vin number, and the one on the papers is C541818909..if that helps at all????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 heres the found Vin number, and the one on the papers is C541818909..if that helps at all????? The number in your photo looks up to be: Serial Number: 76608128 Found in range: 76591001 to 76610490 Serial: 17128 of 19490 Year: 1954 Make: Chrysler Model Name: New Yorker Model Code: C63-1 Engine: OHV V8 331.1 cu. in. Wheelbase: 125 1/2 inches I was thinking that your registration paperwork was showing the engine number as it starts with a Chrysler engine number looking prefix (C54) but if my lookup is correct the engine number should start with C63 instead. Engine numbers are often stamped on the driverside frame rails but the locations varied a bit with year and I don't know where it would be for 1954. Also, 1954 is about the time the Chrysler started flirting with VIN style numbers so the numbering scheme may not match the earlier serial number based methods nor the later true VIN numbers. Sorry I can't be more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 (edited) per a note in my Motors manual for 1955 the location of the serial number on the 54 Chrysler V8 is Top front center of block..this may be the very match for the number on the title as many states did title only by engine number...I am thinking that the trend to stamp the engine number is still being used on the 54 and you should find this number stamped on the left frame rail at the rear just ahead of the axle tip-up..cleaning this with a wire brush and wiping with oil may present this number for the authorities to again...match said title number..(this is back up incase the engine has been changed over the year...original engine number is recorded on the frame... be careful, if you go behind center of the tip-up odds are the number found may well be the stamped factory rail number and you will see the other side stamped similarly I think one will have a L and the other an R in their somewhere.. Edited December 11, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 you guys are the best! all info passed on to the people that need to know..lets hope they´re in agreement I´ll tell you what happens, thanks for the fast response xxxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 small update!..they´ve given me a date !, theoretically the dodge leaves the "new continent" for the old one on the 10th of jan..which means it´ll get here around the end of the month. meanwhile the chrysler is still stuck with the numbers. they found something resembling numbers on the engine but were too rusted to decode. so they´re redoing the vin number paperwork so it can actually leave the country, they reckon they looked all over for other numbers but I can only insist so far from this distance!..anyway excited about the dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Very interesting that the block would be so rusty as to obscure the stamped ID. Most often this area is covered with decades of grease. The stamping would look something like this 392 block: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.