53b1bpickup Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 The rear brake bleeders on my truck are frozen. I have placed generous amounts of liquid wrench on them over a couple weeks. Looks like whoever had it last rounded the corners off so I can't get a good socket grip on them. How would you go about getting them loose? Thanks. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 (edited) not going to be easy without taking them off the backing plate and disassemble them to protect the innards..once that is done I would heat them two cycles of cherry red..when they have changed color from red back to normal on the second cycle..give them about another 30 seconds then use a vise grip..they should readily break free..if not, cycle the heat again...as for replacement bleeders..you may be able to find these on the help shelf at the local big box.... Edited October 2, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
MBF Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 You could try a vise grip pliers. Make sure the teeth on the jaws are sharp. If it starts to turn go back and forth a couple of times while saturating them with penetratiting fluid. If they break off you'll need to replace the cylinders. Mike Quote
DJ194950 Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 Suggest using a drill bit to clean out the center hole of the bleeder. get getting larger sizes in until cleaned out. Put the shaft end of the last drill bit in the bleeder hole to keep the hole from just collapseing and try the visegrips. If if does'nt come out without to much pressure, remove bit and heat per Plymouthys post, reinstall bit and try-try again. Best of luck, Doug Quote
Young Ed Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 Personally if they are that screwed up I would say its a fairly safe bet the cylinders themselves are trashed too. That is unless you know them to be fairly new or something. Quote
Kensoldtruck Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 I must agree with Young Ed. I've done a few of these and found that if the bleeder is frozen then the system has not been maintained and most likely water has been drawn into the system which can cause pitting in the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. If you are that far into the system you will ultimately be money and safety ahead to replace all the components including the lines. For the amount of money you will spend in order to do the job properly the safety that you, your passengers and all those around you gain is priceless. Do it right the first time and save yourself a major pain. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 cylinder condition was not the gist of the thread but a way to remove the frozen bleeder.....and while I have had to remove a few bad bleeder in my time..some the cylinders were still serviceable..so..if he were to remove and disassemble..a quick look would inside would tell him it is worth the effort to remove Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 Remember... truck stepped wheel cylinders are not easy to come by. Usually they need to be re-sleeved. Do what Plymouthy says and it should come out. Quote
MBF Posted October 3, 2013 Report Posted October 3, 2013 I've also had excellent luck using a 5 point socket after liberal soakings with PB and Kroil. The stepped cylinders are available from NAPA-I replaced all of mine on the 1ton a year or so ago. I also use never seize on the bleeders when I reassemble them. I try to flush the fluid each spring to get the moisture out of the system. Mike Quote
53b1bpickup Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 I appreciate all the good input. Not traveling next weekend so will give it a go. I'll update this post withe results. Thanks again for all the input! Quote
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