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Posted (edited)

Ok as some of you know im here in the "stan" so my mind has some time to "chew" on things and i came up with a super slick parking brake idea that involved a sye on the tailshaft of the trans a motorcycle rotor samitched between the flange and the driveshaft yoke a bracket to hold a caliper from the same bike (i have a ton of extra harley parts if you couldn't tell) a rear harley mc actuated by the stock lever and a slip- drive shaft. I called around to a few places and it seems feasible that is until i found this http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/2769/Hydraulic-Brake-Park-Lock.-This-Is-A-Manual-Push-Button-Hydraulic-Lock-Using-The-Line-Pressure-To-Hold-The-Brakes-Locked-In-Place%2C-For-Drag-Cars%2C-Offroad-Sandrail-And-Dune-buggy/?gclid=CKur8cn57bgCFXLItAod_GUAqw

 

it works my pluming it in line with a set of brakes in this case the back ones you step on the brakes push the knob and wham the back brakes stay locked to release you push the pedal and pull the knob up so yea I'm going to go this route just figgerd id share with yall it seems like a simple solution if your changing your trans but don't want to swap the rear axel.

Edited by SSD
Posted

While that may work, a parking brake really should be a mechanical device or spring applied and pressure released. When you have a pressure activated parking brake, and there's a pressure loss due to a leak, or a line rupture, you will loose your parking brake.

 

Merle

Posted

Those are better suited for racing, rev it up push the button in...

 

Our C60 has a hydraulic line lock, but it is only for use with the pto running and the mechanical brake set. Never trust one for parking, it is so easy to adapt a 48/49 parking brake handle to modern rear end brakes that the line lock isn't worth the leak potential. Same principle for the later T-handle and straight handle with adjuster versions. A couple of steel turnbuckles for slack adjustment and to connect old linkage to new cable. Piece of cake.

 

Or carry wheel chocks, I do in my Ranger, parking brake is broken.

Posted (edited)

I have a factory MoPar hydraulic brake lock on my 52 dodge PU. I used it a lot years ago and never had loss of brakes or blow out. Would not trust it for parking .

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted (edited)

In years past I worked on a lot of larger (20'-40') forklifts that we added a hydralic brake locking mech. where a handle was flipped over 180 degree and brake pedal pushed on to hold forklift stationary while it's load was unloaded.

A metal plate with instructions was put under the handle on how to use it. On that plate in BIG letters it stated: NOT TO BE USED AS A PARK BRAKE AND LEFT UNATTENDED!

Some of the earlier ones that we  installed did NOT have that warning. A good guess would be that someone did that exact thing and they got sued for the damage/injuries.!!! :eek:

 

Years ago I had several disc brake Mechanical parking type calipers and brackets that would work ok for your idea but where to find one now??? :confused:

 

Please do not try this hydralic setup!  :mellow:

Maybe you can ask arround at some older farm equip. places about a mechanical type brake caliper, mine came off an old sissor type lift, about 1970's.

 

Doug

Edited by DJ194950
Posted

Take a real hard look at this. For around $300 to $400 you should be able to buy a good low mileage 2000 - 2004 Grank Cherokee rear axle. They are a simple swap. You can get them in several ratios. They have 12" discs with mechanical parking brakes

Easy to get parts for......etc.etc..

 

Jeff

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