JerseyHarold Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 First start-ups are always exciting. Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 I would have though that would have been accomplished during fitment by using the correct header or at minimum the modification of said header..hopefully your doghouse is still off and you have access.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Yeah, I've still got the front clip off until I get the steering lined out. There's room, just not S lot of it. I'll get it in there one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 I am going out on a limb here but am thinking you using after market headers and not the later stock high huggers with rear dump.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Yeah, I've some ebay special blockhuggers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 I cut down the original column today and made a piece to hold a lower bearing. I'm moving the column over and down a bit which is ok because now it's centered with the gauges. It looks like I will get by with just two u-joints; one at the end of the column and one on the rack. Now I need to build a column drop and cut the shaft for a trial fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 I used Borgeson U-joints on my column adaption for a power steering gearbox. They caution that the angularity of the shafts should not exceed 35 degrees. I just made it by juggling the location of the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Good info, thanks. I didn't know those had a max angle rating; I'll have to check that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I got the column drop finished and did a trial fit on the shaft. Everything clears, I should be in good shape. I made a floor plate for the lower column mounts, then pulled it all back apart for some touch up paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1FSTRYD Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Very nice. Get yourself a starter off a 94-95 dodge truck with a v8. They are high torque and much smaller. Would give you more room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCustoms Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 How similar is the 49 and 48 frame? Looks to be the same. I ask because I am putting in a 383/727 in my 48 and would like to use a lot of what you have posted for reference as far as motor mounts, cross member, and R/P install. I'd like to get the motor/trans mocked in before I send the short block to the machine shop. Its hard for me to even guess where the engine mounts should go. Never done all this before. Just reading all the books I can and learning on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thanks; there's actually plenty of room between the shaft and starter, you just can't tell from the angle I took the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 How similar is the 49 and 48 frame? Looks to be the same. I ask because I am putting in a 383/727 in my 48 and would like to use a lot of what you have posted for reference as far as motor mounts, cross member, and R/P install. I'd like to get the motor/trans mocked in before I send the short block to the machine shop. Its hard for me to even guess where the engine mounts should go. Never done all this before. Just reading all the books I can and learning on the way.I'm also doing a 48 that I have a Chevy LS motor in, there is a thread on here for it. If You look at that one it's pretty close to what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCustoms Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Wouldn't the 400 be closer to a 383 swap than an LS? Mines a B-383 from a 65 Chrysler. Or is there that much difference in the frames? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Yeah, you're right. I was thinking you were taking about a Chevy 383. I wuz corn-fused. I think the frames in the front are nearly identical. If I remember right, the rear frame rails are a little wider on the 48. Mocking everything first it a great plan. I'd have the radiator, fan, and pulleys you're going to use when you do your setup so you know how far the motor needs to go back and see if you need to modify the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCustoms Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I was wondering if that threw you off haha. No Bowtie power for me. I don't have the radiator but I do have the pulleys and I am planning on electric fans. I will see if I can find a junk radiator just to use for mock up that's the size I need. You modified the SHO engine mounts you made to reuse on the 400 right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) Yes, I originally made them out of some 3" x 1/4" thick angle iron and some 1/4" thick steel plate. You'll probably have to end up doing something with your firewall. On the 49 I boxed a section and set it back but on my 48 I sliced it horizontally across the peaked portion, layed the upper and lower pieces flat, and welded it back together. Edited February 16, 2016 by falconvan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCustoms Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Thanks for the advice! I was planning on some firewall surgery but wasn't sure how to go about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) The way I did it on this car definitely came out looking nicer in the end. I don't think either way was any easier than the other. A couple of invaluable tools for doing old car sheet metal work: MIG welder preferably with a gas bottle Sheet metal brake 36" Sheet metal shears electric and hand 90 degree grinder with some cutoff wheels 90 degree air sander with 2" Roloc discs Of course you don't have to have all that as there are always multiple ways to accomplish different tasks but I use all of these a lot. And of course don't forget heavy gloves, safety glasses, and boots. That hot glob of weld going through the top of your tennis shoes really smarts when it burns into your toe! Edited February 16, 2016 by falconvan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Done, all back together and turns smooth with no binding. Not sure if I can use the steering wheel; now that I lowered it, it might be too big and be sitting right on my lap. I'll know when I put the seat in. Should be able to put the front clip back on next and start piping the cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I got the front clip back on in the last couple of days and have been working on little things like getting the shift cable mounts lined out, changed the leaky pinion seal, plus other misc items. I really lucked out; I was afraid the inner fender wells I built for the SHO motor wouldn't fit around the Mopar engine but they worked out great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 That engine seems to be sitting kind of low - you are going to need a giant, tall air cleaner to fill the space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Hey Falcon, dust is visible on the passenger fender shown in the 2 nd pic. Cleanliness is next to . . . . ,! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 That engine seems to be sitting kind of low - you are going to need a giant, tall air cleaner to fill the space. Or a 671 blower! Yeah, I'll blow that dust off of it shortly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 motor looks tiny in there fits great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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