Robert Horne Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 http://www.evanscooling.com/ Found this info in a magazine for heavy equipment, for cooling systems, and not using any water. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Interesting product. I like Leno because he always asks the right questions. One concern I have is this product does not transfer heat as well as water, It may not spew and boil over when hot but the engine is still at an elevated temperature. Fourty bucks a gallon is pretty pricey but it is a one time shot at least until a radiator hose leaks and spills everything on the ground. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) while waterless less than .10 percent total...the item protects to 375 degrees yet has a flash point of 233 degree...specific warning on flash point exposures.. another flag of concern was toxicity..films says drink it..MSDS say 3/4 cup is toxic to humans see MSDS http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/products/pdf_3415_3.pdf typical 212 degree boil point...plus 21 lbs of pressure (3 x 21 = 63) 212+63 = 275..we have yet quite the margin for water alone let alone blend of normal antifreeze without the concern for a flash fire due to rupture.. I am not sure if they stressed the concern enough here for say a failure at speed..running some 210 degrees, hose springs a leak due to failure or owner neglect during maintenance.. hit a hot manifold in a fog spray and if or if not you will have ignition...would be of grave concern to myself.. Edited March 21, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) I read, , ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 387 degree. propylene has a boiling point of 370 degree.... If the Evans substance is using these ingredients, I can see their boiling point of 375. I do not understand how Evans can cool the engine, as compared to regular antifreeze that we add water too. With regular antifreeze, ethylene glycol, the boiling point is 387, but we add 50% water, to get a boiling point of 225. Edited March 22, 2013 by Robert Horne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 I can't speak the the technicalities of the contents, but when I first had my 47 running it would overheat if I drove through town on a really hot day and boil water and steam out the overflow. When I switched to Evans it stopped boiling over due to the higher boiling point. Was it a simple changeover? Not really, this stuff finds places to leak from that didn't exist for straight water or a water/antifreeze mix. But I'm still running it after all of these years ...... Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezeldoc Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Used it for years great stuff....only thing that would keep a 440 cool in a rod with a small radiator. Never had it find any leaks that water did not find. Definitely not for everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 I hope I can shed some light here.............I work for Evans and have been there for over 10 yrs. Yes ,water is a better dissipator of heat....but water also boils at 212 degF and with a 15 lb cap it boosts boiling to 257 degF. One thing most do not understand is what the temp gauge is actually telling them. Most sensors for the temp gauge are located near the t-stat housing which is also near the outlet for the top hose to the radiator.........so as the coolant flows past the sensor it registers the temp back to the gauge. So what you are seeing on the gauge is the coolant temp at its hottest point and it is also leaving the motor. You are not gauging temps of coolant in the block. If the pump, fan and rad are doing there job, temps coming back into the bottom hose should be 15-20 deg cooler but you aren't gauging the coolant coming back only going out.I tell all my customers that if the gauge is reading a higher temp, which it can in some instances, that internally the motor is 30-40 degrees cooler but you are also not gauging that. I had it in my 600hp pro street car for 9 yrs and never had a problem When a motor with a 50/50 mix starts to run hot ,what is happening is the internal metal temps are turning the water into steam pockets. Those steam vapors cannot recodense fast enough back to a liquid to help pull heat away from the metal. Consequently the motor starts to build temp. Evans coolant stays a liquid and pulls more heat away from internal metals because it won't form steam vapors. It eliminates corrosion in the system along with no more electroylsis and it is a lifetime coolant. Evans coolant also does not generate pressure so stress is gone on the hoses , gaskets and seals. I had a customer call me and ask if he put our coolant in would his car run cooler...........I told him bluntly..no.........he said his hot rod has a blown/injected 1200 hp motor and runs 230 all the time. I went on to explain what I just did above here. He bought the coolant and put it in............one month later he called and said he proved my point of what I told him. He said he had the car out on a 90 deg day. Was just out cruising and the temp went to 230, no hotter, but also no cooler. he said he was not worried because our coolant can handle higher temps. But he did want to prove to himself what I told him about a cooler motor and not rely on what the gauge is reading. With the motor running and gauge reading 230 he got his digital heat gun out and started going over the block and heads..............he told me the readings were 180-195..gauge 230. I don't tell people to buy our coolant because its the best thing since sliced bread or that by putting ours in will bring your temps down to 180 sitting in traffic with the AC on on a 100 deg day because thats not how we work. But I do like to let people know HOW we work and to understand what you're seeing on the gauge and to understand the cooling system alittle better. We also are all hot rod people so we understand. I have had many customers call me with cooling problems asking if they use ours will it cure there overheating. I tell them no .............what I do is troubleshoot the system to help them bring the temps under control with the 50/50 mix. Then once they get the system under control, then give me a call. I could go on and on but I just had to chime in here so all here could get a better idea of what we do and how we work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) chopt50wgn,,,,, thanks very much for the info. Now I understand more of how & why Evans works..I was concerned about corrosion using 50/50 antifreeze in my cycle for over 20 years, whichhas never overheated or dropped a ounce of antifreeze. The Evans, not using water,takes the corrosion worry away for me..For 26 years my 38 has not overheated, or lost antifreeze. On a very hot day, at idle for 1/2 hournear my garage, the engine temp got to around 200 or so, using 2 cooking gauges in the top of the rad.My 38 has the temp sending unit at the rear of the head, and had a similar reading.Water seems to be the problem in cooling systems, for corrosion and overheating,(boiling over)...Evans seems to have answered both of those concerns. Since Evans is a lifetime coolant, comparedto regular antifreeze of 5 to 7 years recommended replacement, Evans is a very good investment.Bob.... Edited December 29, 2015 by Robert Horne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 well I still have the problem concerning fire if you should get a engine heat up..slight leak and fogged spray of Evans...it is flammable. There are many reports of such engine compartment fires on the internet if you care to search..and most racing venues ban flammable coolant mixtures during an event...guess somewhere out there in racer land there is a knowledgeable data base on this product...I am not condemning nor can I at this point give it a total thumbs up..but would highly recommend that the user read the MSDS and maybe weigh their use against the odds of something going wrong..for those on here that say it will find a hole where water won't..well probable source for ignitable liquid ...granted the no pressure in the system is of added value to safety..to sum it all up...User beware is all I can say.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 You have flammable and combustible mixed up. Evans, as is antifreeze is combustible which means that either in a misting situation and it must have a source of ignition to combust. and a hot header will not ignite it either. If you pour Evans or regular antifreeze on the ground and throw a lit match in it, it will go out. We have been around for over 25 years and have never had anyone who uses this coolant have any fires. The reason most sanctioning bodies ban the use of coolants whether it us or a 50/50 mix is clean up if it's spilled, not fire . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 I have no first hand knowledge of the product as I said from the very beginning..but I also know what an MSDS is and how to read it...also know how to do individual research...I merely stated for those that want to use is to be sure they research.. this is my disclaimer...I still am not convinced there are not conditions which will ignite this stuff...flash point means one thing..volatile at x temp...this is not an attack to say the product is not worthy...I am stating my concerns...and they are concerns yet even after the postings thus far....this is an open forum where opinions should be able to be openly expressed...I do not work for the company so have no direct interest one way or the other..just keeping an open mind here is all...and for the record..you many want to read a bit on flammable incidents at the track and causes...all I am saying..I have an open mind..I also know some situations stress a product over other uses..but the warnings should be in place across the board.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Here are some interesting links. I post these only to show additional opinions. Even metal shavings will burn if the right conditions are present. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612812 http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?topic=4771.0 http://www.toledoblade.com/frontpage/2003/01/22/Metal-shavings-burn-in-west-side-trash-bin.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Tim...........believe me I get these questions everyday from customers and I do the best I can to help them understand. I do understand your views and opinions so I am good with that. And like another member said........it's not for everyone.....and I'll let it go at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 well I still have the problem concerning fire if you should get a engine heat up..slight leak and fogged spray of Evans...it is flammable. There are many reports of such engine compartment fires on the internet if you care to search..and most racing venues ban flammable coolant mixtures during an event...guess somewhere out there in racer land there is a knowledgeable data base on this product...I am not condemning nor can I at this point give it a total thumbs up..but would highly recommend that the user read the MSDS and maybe weigh their use against the odds of something going wrong..for those on here that say it will find a hole where water won't..well probable source for ignitable liquid ...granted the no pressure in the system is of added value to safety..to sum it all up...User beware is all I can say.... In regards to racing venues ban flammable coolant, like Evans, and also regular antifreeze. I did not realize antifreeze was also flammable....Different flash point than Evans, but still flammable.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Found another type antifreeze, "glycerin" ... It was used in the 20s, but replaced with ethylene glycol, because of cost in the 30s. It is making a come back now. Comes from biodiesel. The website, says do not add water, at 100% has a boiling point of 228,,close to the boiling point of 50/50 ethylene glycol of 225. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Watched the NASCAR race yesterday. Car near the end was having a problem with coolant heat, 300 degree. Anyone know what type coolant NASCAR cars are using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 my understanding is that no coolant additive is allowed...water only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 At 300 degrees water, they must have a high pound radiator cap..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 At 300 degrees water, they must have a high pound radiator cap..... If I read this chart right, looks like that would be a 70 psi cap minimum. If you got a leak you may have some trouble as steam at that temperature and pressure is nothing to play lightly with. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 maybe I do my math a different way but 300-212=88/3=29.3 lb cap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TR Waters Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I think you will find that they do not use a radiator cap. They are closed pressurized systems with a 28# pressure relief valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 For every pound pressure on a radiator cap it will boost the boiling point by 3 degrees. Take a 15lb cap x 3= 45. Add 45 to 212(boiling point of water) = 257 boiling point. NASCAR,NHRA and many other sanctioning bodies in all forms of racing allow only water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Found another type antifreeze, "glycerin" ... It was used in the 20s, but replaced with ethylene glycol, because of cost in the 30s. It is making a come back now. Comes from biodiesel. The website, says do not add water, at 100% has a boiling point of 228,,close to the boiling point of 50/50 ethylene glycol of 225. The glycerin based antifreeze was at www.orisonmarketing.com/IceclearHD.html IceclearHD. Non Glycol type antifreeze..About $20 each gallon.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 The chance of Evans or any other type of anti-freeze causing an engine fire seems far less likely than a fuel line springing a leak directly above a hot exhaust manifold. I guess I better find a new location for my carbs & fuel lines out of the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Deathbound, I think if we use proper fuel lines, filters, and connections on our fuel supply, we should be ok there. Safer to stay away for rubber fuel lines, clear plastic lines or filters, and have good tight connection. I need to change much of my fuel supply, and routing, since I will continue using my electric fuel pump..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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