Gas Priming Carb For Cold Starts

[55 Fargo]

Here is an old topic, but was thinking of it today, so decided to put it to the test.

My 47 Chrysler has not been started for a few weeks or more, but I needed to move it outside, for some floor sweeping.

I primed carb with a couple ounces of fresh gas, then proceeded to crank here over, she immediately fired right up. The garage was cool inside, but not real cold, the floor i super cold though.

I have always had starting issues after this car sat for a while, and then with a 6 volt system, she would crank slow on those super cold times.

I was a bit amazed  as I have never made this a practice, would go out, and crank, and crank and crank some more, till she fired, this was wearing down the battery too. When I put the battery back on the 6 volt tender, it was full charged in no time flat.

This car has a fully functioning scisson electric choke.

The truck starts very easy no matter what, with 12 volts, and a manual choke she comes to life quite easy.....

 

[Don Coatney]

I trained Reg on how to do a cold start. ask him if he still remembers.

[55 Fargo]

I trained Reg on how to do a cold start. ask him if he still remembers.

I dunno if Reg remembers, but I do.

That method crankin a few times, then stopping, then crankin a few more times, is that the method you are talking about. That basically allows fuel to be pumped up, to carb, beofre you actually fire up engine, correct?

I have tried that method unsuccessfully for cold temperature starts, I find it runs down the old 6 volt battery a bit.

Is that the method you be talkin about...

[Don Coatney]

That is what I am talking about. Surprised it runs the battery down. I would think that steady cranking would do more to deplete the battery.

[55 Fargo]

That is what I am talking about. Surprised it runs the battery down. I would think that steady cranking would do more to deplete the battery.

Hey Don, this battery is gettin old, so might not handle cold cranks so great.

I do find your method, works well in warmer temps say above 50, but when the shop has dropped to 30, and is closer to 20 on the floor, everything gets tighter.

I know 6 volt systems do start okay, especially when all is in good clean condittion as mine is, but 12 volts is much stronger for starting, nothing will convince me otherwise, as I have both, and can see the difference..thanx anyway

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you buy a new battery.

[55 Fargo]

Suggest you buy a new battery.

Just another thing on the list of needs for this car, it needs it, after 6 years of use, but it gets her started with some "dino shooters"....

[Scruffy49]

Every time I start my 69 D100 it has to be primed before hitting the key. I use 2 stroke mix for it, less likely to set the carb on fire.

[Robert Horne]

On a NASCAR talk show, a question was ask, "what do NASCAR people use in the squirt bottle to help start the race cars.

The answer was, "the same fuel they use in the race cars"

Before I installed an electric fuel pump in my 38, I used the method to start my Coupe, after it had been sitting for any length of time.

[55 Fargo]

On a NASCAR talk show, a question was ask, "what do NASCAR people use in the squirt bottle to help start the race cars.

The answer was, "the same fuel they use in the race cars"

Before I installed an electric fuel pump in my 38, I used the method to start my Coupe, after it had been sitting for any length of time.

On a few of my small engines, there are primers to squirt gas, for starting after any length of time.

I don't mind doing this, but was surprised how well it worked on a cold weather engine..

[Reg Evans]

I trained Reg on how to do a cold start. ask him if he still remembers.

I sure do Don.  I'm still using the method and so far it has worked every time. It might take 5 or 6 bursts of turning each cylinder over about 2 times with a 10 second wait between each try but By God !  It works!!!  I should probably dump out the old gas in my squirt bottles before it turns to varnish.

[55 Fargo]

I sure do Don.  I'm still using the method and so far it has worked every time. It might take 5 or 6 bursts of turning each cylinder over about 2 times with a 10 second wait between each try but By God !  It works!!!  I should probably dump out the old gas in my squirt bottles before it turns to varnish.

Hi Reg, went outside and tried this, on the 47, but it was started and run just 24 hours ago.

The battery was on a 6 volt battery tender, the garage is cool though, so engine is good and cold.

I tried the " no prime start method", it reluctantly worked, my battery was cranking okay, but she is getting old.

But to be honest, it did not fire up, like a squirt of gas down the carb, that was instant start.

This would no doubt work in warmer temps...

[55 Fargo]

On a NASCAR talk show, a question was ask, "what do NASCAR people use in the squirt bottle to help start the race cars.

The answer was, "the same fuel they use in the race cars"

Before I installed an electric fuel pump in my 38, I used the method to start my Coupe, after it had been sitting for any length of time.

Robert what type and brand of electric fuel pump are you using? Is it running exclusive, or as an auxiliary to the manual fuel pump?

[Robert Horne]

My electric fuel pump is from Advance Auto parts, "Mr Gasket brand".

My original fuel pump worked, but was always leaking at the bowl, tried seveal times

to repair it, but no sucess. My little Coupe always starts easy now....

[Robert Horne]

I put my electric fuel pump near the fuel tank also.

Someone stated the pump pushes, better than im draws.

I believe they were correct....

[Don Coatney]

Hi Reg, went outside and tried this, on the 47, but it was started and run just 24 hours ago.

The battery was on a 6 volt battery tender, the garage is cool though, so engine is good and cold.

I tried the " no prime start method", it reluctantly worked, my battery was cranking okay, but she is getting old.

But to be honest, it did not fire up, like a squirt of gas down the carb, that was instant start.

This would no doubt work in warmer temps...

Buy a battery!

[55 Fargo]

Buy a battery!

Thats the plan, and a bigger 1 then I have now. Will post the results after that.

A pic of my battery I took the other day, think I got it in 06 or 07

[55 Fargo]

Okay, a few days later, engine cold, garage is cool inside this frosty morning.

I gave a small squirt of gas into carb, went to fire up engine, engine fired immediately, and running strong.

Now I could use a new battery, that is fact, but this priming is resulting in instant starts.

Could there be other issues going on,such as a faulty carb or problematic fuel pump, that loses prime?

[Frank Elder]

I'm no petrochemical analyst.........but it seems to me that the modern mix's evaporation rate is significantly quicker than the juice we used to run....I wonder how fast the new E-15 will dry in the carb?

[desoto1939]

I do not like to prime a carb because of the flashback aspects.  One thing to remember is that you should not use starting fluid down the carb .  The reason is that if for some reason you have not been able to get the car to fire over the truing of the engine now pulls the starting fluid into the cylinders. The unfired started fluid then coats and then runs down the cylinder walls and slowly removes the oil film and protection.

 

So If you do not get it started then the next time you try now have no oil protection on the cylinder walls on the first try.  Not good for the engine.

 

I prefer to have the electric pump prime the fuel line and then when I see fuel in the filter then I crank over the engine and then it fires.

Do not push the pedal to the floor prior to priming the engine pullthe choke out a 1/4 then prime with electric pump. Then turn on the iginition switch to fire the engine.

This works great for me.

 

Rich Hartung

[bamfordsgarage]

I regularly had to prime the carb after the D25 was sitting for a few days or more between starts but that duty cycle is now rare.  Even last month after the car was idle for eight days while we were on vacation it started up after only about five seconds of cranking.  I'm running the stock carb, oil-bath air cleaner and a newer-double-acting-yet-still-mechanical fuel pump.

 

Back when priming was required more frequently, I left the top nut on the air-cleaner housing a little bit loose, so when I poured a teaspoon or two of gas into the little depression at the top it would trickle down around the bolt and into the carb. I think this eliminated any danger of the flashbacks Rich warned of in the above post.

 

As an aside, the hot-start starting difficulties we had for years were largely eliminated with the addition of a carburetor spacer on the intake manifold (photo). In the spirit of vintage repairs, I used a small hardwood board salvaged from the inner door frame of a derelict 1929 Nash.

[RobertKB]

Back when priming was required more frequently, I left the top nut on the air-cleaner housing a little bit loose, so when I poured a teaspoon or two of gas into the little depression at the top it would trickle down around the bolt and into the carb. I think this eliminated any danger of the flashbacks Rich warned of in the above post.

 

Ditto.

[Don Coatney]

I do not like to prime a carb because of the flashback aspects.  One thing to remember is that you should not use starting fluid down the carb .  The reason is that if for some reason you have not been able to get the car to fire over the truing of the engine now pulls the starting fluid into the cylinders. The unfired started fluid then coats and then runs down the cylinder walls and slowly removes the oil film and protection.

I Good point but I think that happens fast not slow. I also do not recomend using either.

So If you do not get it started then the next time you try now have no oil protection on the cylinder walls on the first try.  Not good for the engine.

 

I prefer to have the electric pump prime the fuel line and then when I see fuel in the filter then I crank over the engine and then it fires.

Do not push the pedal to the floor prior to priming the engine pullthe choke out a 1/4 then prime with electric pump. Then turn on the iginition switch to fire the engine.

This works great for me.

 

Rich Hartung

From your posting I think you must have a foot starter. P-15' and D-24's do not have a foot starter.On these cars the ignition switch must be turned on in order to spin the starter.

 

My procedure as posted above works well and it should work well with a foot starter for those who remain stock and do not want to install an electric booster pump.

[55 Fargo]

 

 

I do not like to prime a carb because of the flashback aspects.  One thing to remember is that you should not use starting fluid down the carb .  The reason is that if for some reason you have not been able to get the car to fire over the truing of the engine now pulls the starting fluid into the cylinders. The unfired started fluid then coats and then runs down the cylinder walls and slowly removes the oil film and protection.

 

So If you do not get it started then the next time you try now have no oil protection on the cylinder walls on the first try.  Not good for the engine.

 

I prefer to have the electric pump prime the fuel line and then when I see fuel in the filter then I crank over the engine and then it fires.

Do not push the pedal to the floor prior to priming the engine pullthe choke out a 1/4 then prime with electric pump. Then turn on the iginition switch to fire the engine.

This works great for me.

 

Rich Hartung

Rich I do not use starting fluid ever, have never had carb pops and flames, and really like the idea of an electric fuel pump for priming/cold starts and as a back-up for the mechanical pump.

 

I Good point but I think that happens fast not slow. I also do not recomend using either.

From your posting I think you must have a foot starter. P-15' and D-24's do not have a foot starter.On these cars the ignition switch must be turned on in order to spin the starter.

 

My procedure as posted above works well and it should work well with a foot starter for those who remain stock and do not want to install an electric booster pump.

Don, your method, does not work anywhere near as well at this point on cold starts of my engine, after a few days.

I am not saying it could not, to be fair, will test again with a new battery, and in warmer temps.

If I put a few squirts of gas, and I do mean very small amounts of gas into my carb, it is instant fire-up.

You method worked too, but it is crank/stop,crank/stop,crank/stop, and some more than fire up.

I may have other issues with this carb, or fuel pump back-siphoning, or as you have maintained, a battery that needs more oomph.

Will report back,once I have a new battery...

[Don Coatney]

Beauty of my method is no need to open the hood and remove the air filter.