Just wondering what everyone is running for modifications?

[CaptainGTX]

The stock distributor on my 53 Coronet convertible has dual points.   I know this site is primarily for flathead Mopars, but the Red Ram and other early hemis all came with dual points.  Dual points also were standard on my 440 powered 69 GTX.  Can't judge whether they make much difference in performance, but assume Chrysler engineers determined they did, or their accountants wouldn't have let them spend the extra money. 

[Don Coatney]

How sensitive it is to adjust? That looks like a bolt in modification and reasonable too.

 

Very easy to setup and adjust on the bench. Using a drill motor and a dwell meter make it a snap to dial in,

 

 

The stock distributor on my 53 Coronet convertible has dual points.   I know this site is primarily for flathead Mopars, but the Red Ram and other early hemis all came with dual points.  Dual points also were standard on my 440 powered 69 GTX.  Can't judge whether they make much difference in performance, but assume Chrysler engineers determined they did, or their accountants wouldn't have let them spend the extra money. 

 

 

My dual point conversion kit calls for early hemi contact points. The prime advantage of dual points is increased coil saturation time developing a hotter spark. I know that a lot of Mopar vehicles used dual points from the factory. I dont know if other manufactures did the same.

[Alshere59]

Don or any others with a dual point for the stock autolites

 

What is your dwell setting for your dual point? Mine came with gap settings only and an old mechanic gave me the specs of 29 primary then set the secondary for a total of 42 degrees. It runs fine and the gaps provided are close but I have always wondered. 

 

Mine was an ebay purchase as well for 20 bucks. Different manufacturer: Sorensen

[Don Coatney]

Don or any others with a dual point for the stock autolites

 

What is your dwell setting for your dual point? Mine came with gap settings only and an old mechanic gave me the specs of 29 primary then set the secondary for a total of 42 degrees. It runs fine and the gaps provided are close but I have always wondered. 

 

Mine was an ebay purchase as well for 20 bucks. Different manufacturer: Sorensen

 

With dual points the dwell is increased from 35-38 degrees to 44-47 degrees.

 

I dont understand the primary and secondary readings. With the dual setup one set of contacts opens and before it closes the second set of points opens. Then the first set closes but the second set remains open for a few degrees then closes. Hence increased coil saturation time.

 

I set my points a couple of thousands closer. If I recall the original setting was around twenty thousands and I set my dual points at around 17 thousands. This results in increased point contact life due to less arcing but still an increased dwell.

 

Edited February 2, 2013 by Don Coatney

[Alshere59]

With dual points the dwell is increased from 35-38 degrees to 44-47 degrees.

 

Agreed on the increase. I did not expect that much though. So you are setting your primary then hitting 44-47 adjusting your secondary. So what is your primary setting? Thanks

[Plymouthy Adams]

yeah ago when setting with a dwell meter on dual points one would place a peice of paper between one point set and set the gap of the other to read the desired dwell..now put the paper beteen the points you just set, and to the other set to proper dwell..remove and read the combine dwell...

[Dodgeb4ya]

All stock. Works just fine.

Edited February 2, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[Alshere59]

Thats not what i have been taught or read to be honest. It was always set the primary set first with the secondary disabled with the card board. Then remove the cardboard and adjust the secondary to get your combined dwell both sets functioning.

 

Just like it is described here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4XtsjqZfXg

[Plymouthy Adams]

I admit that it has been some 30+ years since working with dual points so I did a bit of reading to validate my earlier answer..and setting the dwell is as I described..while some do short cut and set primary and tweak secondary set for total ...the true setting is set each equally to get the combined..this may require you setting anywhere within the accepted individual dwell range to get the combined total....there are many articles on the internet that will explain that both points sets are adjusted individually and then read for combined..

[Plymouthy Adams]

here is a link to the Imperial Club's online posts of mopar booklets...I do not think this infringes upon copy right..

 

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/046/Page22.htm

[Don Coatney]

When I set my points I first used a feeler gauge on both sets. Once I had them set I checked the dwell with the meter. Might not be the correct way but compared to a single point distributor I could see a much longer dwell time and that was my objective.

[Plymouthy Adams]

setting gap on each set with a guage with new points  is acceptable as the geometry of the points plate/breaker cam will do the job it is intended...however..if points are used and you are cleaning/tweaking gap..dwell is the only way to get them within specs and know for certain..

 

one of the larger makers of dual.points show this for 6 cylinder

 

air gap on the dual .028

dwell for dual 29 degrees per set

total dwell when read combined 41 +/- 2

 

NOTE..this is relevant to the profile of the breaker cam also...

[William Davey]

One small clarification about the Pertronics system.  I've installed their setup twice and did not have to modify the breaker plate in either case.  First time was my boat (350 Cheby) and second was my 55 Dodge C-3-B8 with the 259 cu.in. Red Ram V-8.  Their website has specific listings for an amazing variety of engines with lots of different part numbers, so I assume that each sensor is specific to the vehicle, not a universal fit-all.  I keep the points I removed in the glove box in case the pickup ever fails.  Boat has been in seasonal use with this setup since 1999 with no issues.  Just did the truck last summer.    

[Chuck51631]

I also added radial tires on stock rims.

[falconvan]

318, 5 speed, 8.8 Ford rearend, 4 wheel disc brakes.

[47heaven]

My P-15, for the most part is stock. My recent addition to the car was an aftermarket fuel tank because my original was going to cost too much to fix. When I first got the car, my plan was to keep it as original as possible, but as time went on I decided to enhance a few things, but still keeping the original look, inside and out. I really wished that I had dropped a 350 small block engine in instead, which I will do when the straight 6 has run it's course. As time wears on, the parts for these cars are getting harder to find, and many of them not being reproduced like for Chevy and Ford. My theory now is, "What you can't see under the hood and car won't hurt you."

[Scruffy49]

Tinted windows (done before I was born), Plymouth engine, 15" wheels with radials (until the stock wheels with wide whites are finished), rear bumper with trailer hitch, front bumper guards, blue seat instead of cow poop brown.

 

Still to come: 5 speed, 230 to replace 218, rear axle swap, lowering, wooden strip headliner, spotlights and visor, have a lead on a stock radio, modern gauges, 12v conversion (with hidden modern stereo), rear skirts (if I swap to the 39-47 rear fenders I want), rear bumper delete or at least tuck itin tighter, 2 tone paint... All depends on whether or not I decide to stick with a traditional 50s custom lowrider build or keep it as Grandpa's old work truck.

[Kensoldtruck]

Saw someone looking for an original radio. I have a couple of 802 radios laying around. One is stock and the other one my electrical engineer son was goig to change out to modern condensers. That was 8 years ago so I have given up on that happening. I wont sell the radios but I will trade stuff. I have a pair of stock 49 pickups and am always looking for "stuff". Post hereif interested.

[Plymouthy Adams]

of the 5 topics..only two have options that I can check as my components are not listed in the list of chioces and even then the two do not describe my upgrade proper...this thread keeps coming back as unread when I refresh though no new entry has been made..GTK suggested taking the poll to clear the icon..