51 suburban project

[iamjeff171]

Got the engine mounted. it is just tacked in at the moment, i will be boxing it in and probably add some gussets. I dont think im going to quite my day job to be a welder any time soon.

[iamjeff171]

here is the transmission mount. i was able to use the original dakota mount and used 4x2 box tube to make a frame mount. i will be cutting the original top mounting holes of the transmission mount off so that it is flush with the frame mount. The nice part about using the dakota mount is that it has a kick down on the pass. side to run the exhaust between it and the body.

Edited March 9, 2013 by iamjeff171

[iamjeff171]

My parents neighbor just hapened to have a pair of texas 51 plates that were in there garage... they are in decent condition and i think they will clean up nicely.

 

I forgot to post my finished brakes. It went pretty smooth. Only issue is that the rotors suggested with the scarebird kit have a very larg hub that causes issues with finding wheels that will fit over the hub. For now i am going to be running a set of late model steel  crown vic (police car)wheels that i picked up for $100 that had tires with lots of tread left. these i had to clearence a little in otder to get to fit. I will be running an s10 firewall mounted vaccum booster and hanging pedal.

 

Here is a picture of one ot my idler arm. i ground them down for clearence and chamfered the holes. As they are i have zero interference with the A-arms. while i swapped the idler arms from side to site to compenstate for the dropped uprights, i will likely still need to heat and bend the idler arms down a little more. we will see when i get my power rack installed.

 

next on to-do list is power rack, rear end, rockers/floor/firewall.

[martybose]

When you are done with the idler arms make sure that they clear the tires!  I didn't, and cut right through the side of the tire when I tried to back the car out of the shop.  It may not be a problem with standard size tires, but I had 205/60x15's installed at the time.

 

Marty

[iamjeff171]

after actually putting the crown vic wheels on, they wont fit due to interference with the idler arm. i might jsut end up running the stock 15"s.  This may be a kinda dumb question, but can you run tubeless tires on the factory tube rims?

[Plymouthy Adams]

if that is the crown vic wheel up against the other wagon..those rims are extremely offset positive and will not work on the stock front suspension without use of an adapter.  Mid to late 80's Mopar wheels is a good choice..look the Diplomat/5th Ave line..Ihave used these with only a slight 1/4 spacer in the front for good clearance with radial tires..

[falconvan]

Looking great! Keep up the good work, you'll be on the road before you know it.

[iamjeff171]

that isn't the crown vic wheel, but the vic wheels do have the same offset. so i guess is didnt get away with great a deal as i thought, such is life. good news is i can still use them on my DD.

 

I picked up my 8.8 rear for it. I went for the higher gear ratio 3.27 with traction lok. My other option was 3.73s but i figured i would be traction limited anyway and i might get a little better MPGs with the 3.27s. I havent got it mounted yet, but i couldn't resist putting the car on the ground to see how everything looked.  I was surprised at how low it is with the dropped spindles. I imagine my springs are a little tired. I've only got about  3.5" of ground clearance between the frame and ground. glad i mounted the engine/tranny pans above the frame. the rear will be probably an inch taller than in these pictures.

Edited March 30, 2013 by iamjeff171

[iamjeff171]

im curious, what are those with v8 swaps running for radiators?

[Plymouthy Adams]

basic Summit aftermarket round track or Griffin...they are basically one and the same...however buy by dimension and out/inlet size, placement and even at that being Mopar be prepared th have the lower neck cut, repositioned to the proper angle and welded back in place..

 

go to summit racing..you can get sucked in by their so called replacement for the model and year or just buy it as you need it..I found their specific by design is not right, not even close..I have three units here with Griffin/Summit rads...

[fstfish66]

nice project,   looking forward to more ,,,

[Plymouthy Adams]

Similar setup on my 51 Suburban..used the Summit radiator...but late model AC condenser...cooling is electric fan

Radiator mounts were modified a bit from the Summit box-stock kit to adapt to my specific needs and radiator shell (rubber will be trimmed on final install..special high heat resistant rubber)

Edited April 30, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[iamjeff171]

not a whole lot of progress. however i did manage to get the rear end mounted and a new shiny set of wheels.

Edited November 6, 2013 by iamjeff171

[pflaming]

I'm not a low rider fan, but that will be a rad burb when you finish. I think the sun visor will produce too much drag and just fly off on the first run,   so why not remove it now and send it to me? 

 

Just read Plymouthy's post: I forgot my car has a one piece windshield. So much for that idea. 

Edited November 8, 2013 by pflaming

[YukonJack]

not a whole lot of progress. however i did manage to get the rear end mounted and a new shiny set of wheels.

I like the wheel & tire combo. What sizes are you using.

[Plymouthy Adams]

PP to install that visor would incorporate many minor adjustments

[iamjeff171]

I like the wheel & tire combo. What sizes are you using.

 they are 17"s. i'm not sure of the width/backspacing because i haven't put a tape measure to them yet. i bought them used, though they were practically new and had obviously been used on a car stored indoors. i think the are 7" wide with a "standard" offset. tire size is offset front/back, though i don't remember exact size at the moment.

[iamjeff171]

I'm not a low rider fan, but that will be a rad burb when you finish. I think the sun visor will produce too much drag and just fly off on the first run,   so why not remove it now and send it to me? 

 

Just read Plymouthy's post: I forgot my car has a one piece windshield. So much for that idea. 

Thanks. that's why i have to make it lower. you know, to reduce drag...or something. :-)

[fstfish66]

enjoying this topic, the wagon looks great with the torque thrusts,,sits nice and low,,,

 

question,,reading the  posts on the dropped  up rights,,im just  now my  self getting ready to do this to my 40 coupe,,,i read here in a few posts about bending the steering arms up ??? then back down ??  i have the fat man  instructions,and a magazine article on some ones 51  wagon,,there is no talk about bending the steering arms up....then back down,,, only talk is to  switch steering arms from left to right and right to left,,,then only having to bend one steering arm,,,,so whats with the bending them up before down ???

 

next,,,they say  you need to  drill out the mounting holes to a larger size,and  retap the spindle also for the same larger size,,,what is the purpose to  drill bigger and not just  counter sink the same size mounting holes???  thanks for any  info,,,

[james curl]

If you just switch side to side and only bend the arms down then the bottom of the arms next to the uprights will hit the top of the trunnion boss on the lower "A" frame.  The arms will have to be bent up while installed on the upright to clear the top of the lower trunnion boss then bent down again with a spacer between the top of the trunnion boss and the arm so that the arm can swing over the boss when turned to full lock.  If you check your steering now at full lock in both directions you will find that the arm now swings below the "A" arm.

[fstfish66]

If you just switch side to side and only bend the arms down then the bottom of the arms next to the uprights will hit the top of the trunnion boss on the lower "A" frame.  The arms will have to be bent up while installed on the upright to clear the top of the lower trunnion boss then bent down again with a spacer between the top of the trunnion boss and the arm so that the arm can swing over the boss when turned to full lock.  If you check your steering now at full lock in both directions you will find that the arm now swings below the "A" arm.

james ok thanks  first ive heard of this,,and  i cant  picture it sitting here,, sorta mind boggling,,,   the  pics ive seen do not show any  bending up,,, ill talk with  fat man  see whats the scoop,,,,its the bending that makes me not wanna drop the front end,,,, thanks again,,,,

[iamjeff171]

Got the front sheet metal trimmed and set back on. Hoping to hear her fire up some time next week.

[Frank Elder]

Startin' to shape up!

[iamjeff171]

Got her to fired earlier today. i still dont have the fuel pump situated, but at least i have the wiring figured out.

 

here is the youtube link: