lelshaddai Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 I have read many threads and looked at the manual. I am new to the timing issue. I have a 53 Plymouth 218. I am trying to time it properly. It idles at 500 rpm. I marked DTC with a white dot. Now the question. Is 2 degrees BDTC before or after the timing mark. I am new and just do not know. Right now the DTC mark is to the left of the timing cover mark about 2-3 degrees. The distrib is rotated full counter clockwise. If will not adjust anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 You can do a timing procedure with a vacuum gauge. There is another adjustable clamp on the bottom of the dist that may allow you some more adjustment if you need more. Attach the vacuum gauge to the wiper port on the intake, and with the car at idle, move the distributoer to obtain the highest steady vacuum. this procedure will take into account the present condition of your engine and the stuff they sell us as fuel these days. If your idle change appreciably adjust it back to 500 rpm. If you find that this setting has a spark knock or ping under wot acceleration of climbng hills, just back of the dist a bit till it goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Some of these terms I am not familiar with. Wiper port? My wipers are electric motor. Which way do I turn the Distrib? Clock or counter clock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Under the distributor body there is a bolt that fits in a slotted hole in the adjustment bracket, check it to see if you can loosen it and get more adjustment. It turns counterclockwise to advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Look for a pipe plug on the intake manifold, earlier cars had vacuum wipers feed from the intake. You may have a place where you can remove a threaded plug and attach a gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 But which side of the DTC mark is advance and which is before? Looking down on it left or right. The adjustment on the distrib is adjusted in the slot as far counter clockwise as it can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 I do have a vacuum gauge. I will look Wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 I found a plug in the firewall side of the intake. What do you suggest I use to connect the vacuum gauge to? Is this method to be used instead of timing it or in addition to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Go to the auto parts store and buy the fitting . Use this method instead of the other . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Turn your distributor Clockwise to retard / Counterclockwise to advance. Pictured is the hidden slot below the distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Ok. If you are standing onthe driver side of the car and looking down past the generator the timing mark onthe dampener willbe rotating towards you or the engien spins colockwise. So the Mark of 2 Degress before TDC will come into view before the TDC mark on the dampener. The marks after TDC will then be After TDC, Hope this helps. Remember that the suggestion on timeing is a suggestion and you have to find where your car runs best by adjusting the dizzy to get the best running engine. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I worked on the timing using the vacuum gauge . I had to go counterclockwise beyond the hole and to the other side to get the best vacuum reading. It was 17 in or 45 cm. Is this about correct? It seems to run OK but it hurumfs a bit at low idle. Also I am getting a lot of blow-by. Is this normal for this engine? A large white cloud when it sits. It gets into the cab. I took the thermostat out and the temp sits at 160-170 now. Instead of 220. Rad, front of block, back all within 5 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I tried to break free the hidden adjustment but I do not want to break it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I tried to break free the hidden adjustment but I do not want to break it off. Have you removed the distributor from the engine? It is very easy to loosten this adjustment bolt with the distributor removed. Are you turning it the right way? Remember it is upside down so righty tighty, lefty loosey is reversed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I am afraid I am making things worse. It seems to run a bit rougher now. I Have not removed the distrib. Did not want to make things worse by not knowing how to do that. Right now I have many problems I am trying to solve. I may just get it close and drive it. The engine sat a long time. I have replaced the water pump, plug wires, cap, rotor, changed oil 3 times in 2 months, new plugs, recored rad, new hoses with springs in them, new belt, cleaned fill cap, cleaned ventilation tube, new freeze plugs, flushed rad and engine, new lines to oil filter, rebuilt carb and fuel pump, new regulator, Problems 1. Engine was running 220 on a 100 degree day. Removed thermostat and it runs 190 when it is 90 out. Rad, engine within 5 degrees of each other. 2. After trying to adjust timing have extreme amount of blow by out of ventilation tube and a little out of the oil fill. 3. Mix smells rich. After timing seems to make it run worse. Lost some top end speed. Harder starts 4. Looks like a fog behind me when at higher speeds. 5. So much smoke that it enters cab I just do not know what to do. I fell I am just winging it and making things worse. I really do not want to rebuild at this time. That is why I say I may just drive it. Will it cause any damage if I run a tube from the ventilation tube out the back of the car to send the smoke out? Getting a bit frustrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl head Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I just read your post and it appears to me you may have more than one issue and that could be why your having poor luck. your description of a large white cloud while sitting makes me think you have a head gasket issue. Rule of thumb: blue exhaust means oil. black means gas (flooding) and white means coolant. I'm not an expert by any means just my 2Cents worth Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Have you done a compression check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl head Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Have you done a compression check? Don Not trying to hi-jack this tread but what book is that info from. I would like to get a copy...... Thanks Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have not done a compression check yet. I can. How do I use my pressure vacuum gauge to do that? What kind of adapter do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatFreddie Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have read many threads and looked at the manual. I am new to the timing issue. I have a 53 Plymouth 218. I am trying to time it properly. It idles at 500 rpm. I marked DTC with a white dot. Now the question. Is 2 degrees BDTC before or after the timing mark. I am new and just do not know. Right now the DTC mark is to the left of the timing cover mark about 2-3 degrees. The distrib is rotated full counter clockwise. If will not adjust anymore. Make sure you disconnect and PLUG the vacuum line to the Distubutor vacuum advance BEFORE making any timming adjustments. Must have no/none/ZERO vaccum at the advance. I never see this mentioned and I know guys are not doiing it to their FLH engines because it is a HARD LINE and not a rubber line so no one thinks it needs to be disconnected...but YES it does. Try that before moving the hard adjustment under the distibutor as COATNEY recommends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I will try that tonight. I can plug it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatFreddie Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I will try that tonight. I can plug it. Get yourself a set of Dorman 799-350 Vacuum Caps Rubber Set of 30 about 4 bucks at any auto parts store Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Still trying to get an answer. Can I run a hose off the crankcase ventilation tube to the back of the car to run the smoke out there until I can fix the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) I have not done a compression check yet. I can. How do I use my pressure vacuum gauge to do that? What kind of adapter do I need? I suggest you find a vacuum tester such as pictured below. If you use a tester that screws into the spark plug hole use caution that the threaded insert does not make contact with the intake valve as damage can occur. Make sure you disconnect and PLUG the vacuum line to the Distubutor vacuum advance BEFORE making any timming adjustments. Must have no/none/ZERO vaccum at the advance. I never see this mentioned and I know guys are not doiing it to their FLH engines because it is a HARD LINE and not a rubber line so no one thinks it needs to be disconnected...but YES it does. Try that before moving the hard adjustment under the distibutor as COATNEY recommends. Not a Good point. ( EDIT! Not a good point about disconnecting the vacuum line made by FATFREDDIE. The information he suggested was not factual. The factual good point was made by Niel Hobac later in this thread.) However many cars do have a rubber line that attaches to the vacuum pot on the distributor. I originally had my vacuum line hard piped but I found that made the distributor difficult to turn (even with a loop in the tubing) and this also made it more difficult to remove the distributor from the engine. So I converted to a rubber hose. Edited September 21, 2012 by Don Coatney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Don Not trying to hi-jack this tread but what book is that info from. I would like to get a copy......Thanks Karl 1953 MoTors Manual. There is currently one on listed on ebay and 6 on Amazon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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