Jump to content

fatFreddie

Members
  • Posts

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

10 Good
  1. I did not see Vintage American Parts on your list... Seriously NAPA has them 160 STAT part THM55 $8.69 180 STAT part THM155 $8.69 and you will need the gasket part FPG 35063 $1.69. The external bypass STAT is the one with the rubber gasket on top...used to 1950... after 1950 you can use the modern style (flat) STAT. You can get them at your local NAPA or from NAPAONLINE.com and they will ship them to your front door
  2. Nope.... that is a misconception as the only way to insure NO VACUUM is to DISCONNECT. It is almost impossible to guarantee that the throttle plate is blocking off the vacumm port (slot) at idle. Worn parts cause this. Smallest vacuum will move the advance. Check it out for your self...put a vacuum gauge on the line and see!!!
  3. Get yourself a set of Dorman 799-350 Vacuum Caps Rubber Set of 30 about 4 bucks at any auto parts store
  4. Make sure you disconnect and PLUG the vacuum line to the Distubutor vacuum advance BEFORE making any timming adjustments. Must have no/none/ZERO vaccum at the advance. I never see this mentioned and I know guys are not doiing it to their FLH engines because it is a HARD LINE and not a rubber line so no one thinks it needs to be disconnected...but YES it does. Try that before moving the hard adjustment under the distibutor as COATNEY recommends.
  5. GTK..... are we now opening your forum up to religious postings?
  6. Steele Rubber http://steelerubber.com ...is the only one that has them . You will need the rubber and the cloth BOWDRILL to cover the weatherstrip as the BOWDRILL makes the window glide over the weatherstrip. Steele part numbers Weatherstrip set, side roof rail, rubber only. Eight (8) piece set for right and left side, including windshield post. 70-1277-65.....$ 394.00/set Tape, bowdrill cloth 70-1176-65...Tan 5"..$ 25.10/ea 5" works best as you want to completely wrap the strip and then slide it into the channel. You also will need the header weatherstriping Weatherstrip, windshield to front bow 40-0418-65.....$ 52.20/ea. Weatherstrip, windshield header to front bow, at rear 30-0503-65.....$ 47.50/ea. Stuff is NOT CHEAP...but is needed to seal up the top
  7. VMR is the site the insurance companies use...you can see which ones use it in the banner ...they may say "we insure for "stated value"" and take your premium money for your "stated value" but when you have a TOTAL loss they go right to this guide for pay off if you did not have 2 independent appraisals in the last 3 years confirming your "stated value". Then you have to sue them to pay up which is more money and hassle then to just accept their amount....and they (insurance companies) know it. Do not be fooled if you insure that P-15 hot rod for 50K and it gets toasted in a California wildfire...they will only pay you 10K... http://collectorcarmarket.com/menus/makes.html
  8. The Plymouth bodies came from the Briggs plant already assembled with interior and all. Briggs had several plant all around the country which produced the bodies for Plymouth. The Woodies , Convertibles and specialty cars were all assembled in Detroit.
  9. Welding 101: FLUXCORE is for outside work or a open shop. GAS SHEILD is for indoor work. Slightest breeze blows away that expensive shield gas.
  10. hahahahah...look who is the SELLER!!!
  11. Chrysler indiscriminately referred to both the standard and semi-automatic fluid-coupling transmissions as “Fluid Drive” in its promotional and technical literature. This contributed greatly to the confusion between the two types, and many Chrysler Corp. car owners of that time did not understand the difference. Many who had the fluid drive/3-speed manual configuration were not aware of any difference between that and the conventional flywheel set-up. Source...allpar.com
  12. Really...than what fluid does go in these?
  13. First, MOPAR engineers did not make the fluid. A company named LUBRIZOL did (NYSE: LZ). Second, Greg that has been done already... like 30-35 years ago. Look for WPC News from 1975 or 1978 I do not remeber what issue or exact year. Back then it was determined to be Hydraulic JACK fluid, or 10W ND motor oil. It was also stated back then that you can still use Hydraulic JACK fluid, or 10W ND motor oil, but the better replacement was Tractor 134 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) FORD TYPE F...NOT DEXRON..... DEXRON contains a SEAL SWELL additive that will destroy the original seals in teh FLUID DRIVE transmission.
  14. The first question is WHAT fluid is in the can...is it original Fluid Drive fluid? or is is something else. I have seen them full of old motor oil, kerosene, old gasoline, turpentine...or what ever, so that is the first question. Second not even a MOPAR purist would risk putting a 70 year old fluid in their tranny...sorry Greg Dump the fluid....take it to a recycle center.....and display it or sell it...worth 20-50 bucks depending on how good the litho is on it.
  15. Where is DON COATNEY when you need him...he has to have a PIC of these different heads somewhere as we all know he has more pictures than a Japanesse tourist
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use