deathbound Posted February 24, 2015 Report Posted February 24, 2015 That color looks GREAT! Any pics of the whole car....sideview or other maybe? Quote
Young Ed Posted February 24, 2015 Report Posted February 24, 2015 Bill...........OOPS........so my hood hinge is backwards..........o/h well its there now.........lol..........thanks mate.....lol........andyd You down under guys have everything backward don't you? 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 De........sdrawkcab name uoy od tahw?.................lol.........ddyna Quote
40plyrod Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Posted February 25, 2015 I'm not sure how your car hoods work, but on my truck the sides slide into the center section from the rear so that once the whole assembly in installed you can't remove a section. I'm guessing the closed end of your hinge is the end that won't allow the hood side to slide through. If you had that to the rear wouldn't you be able to just slide one side off to the front with the hood assembly in place? That may not be a good thing. I would think you'd want the hood sides to slide out the back of the hinge. Merle On my car once the center strip is installed a plug is inserted in the open end and it becomes the attachment point for the hood to the cowl and radiator surround, so to remove a hood side you would have to lift the hood side and unbolt it from the car. Bill...........OOPS........so my hood hinge is backwards..........o/h well its there now.........lol..........thanks mate.....lol........andyd Just as long as the pointy part of the hood is not facing the windshield you're good. Quote
40plyrod Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Posted February 25, 2015 Deathbound, I'm hoping to have the doors polished and installed in the next few weeks and then I'm going to push it outside and take pics. Quote
40plyrod Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Posted March 1, 2015 Finally got the hood together, it required a bit of messing around now that the tolerances were tightened up by paint and chrome. With everything painted and shiny it's not near as much fun working on the car, getting the hood on the car took forever even with help. I feel like putting some dents and scratches in it just to get it over with. Does anyone know whether I put these hood props on the firewall the right way? I also managed to get one rear side window in and still have some of the skin left on my hands. Here's some pics of the progress so far (kinda hard to get a good picture of a window) Quote
Andydodge Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) Plyrod.........NOPE......they are upside down and the "hook" is on the top side, pointing towards the radiator with its high point nearest the hood centre hinge.............hope this makes sense.......have plenty of engine bay pics but these are the only two that show even part of the hinge......in your case....swap them side to side and check my pics.........you can usually see a very fine groove that's worn into the bracket by the hood hinge which will help(unless the brackets have been incorrectly installed years ago and have made a different groove, but how mine are is how I've seen pics elsewhere of them and how mine were when I originally bought the car 43 yrs ago)........regards, andyd. Edited March 1, 2015 by Andydodge Quote
40plyrod Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Posted March 1, 2015 Thanks Andy, I knew something wasn't right because before I started taking the car apart the hood sides were held open higher. Quote
40plyrod Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Posted March 15, 2015 My package arrived from The Brillman Co. so I spent most of yesterday building sparkplug wires. The worst part of that job was worrying that I would cut one too short. Today's job was much worse. I've come to the conclusion that more modification is needed to the front of the car, specifically the radiator support. Being that in Canada the 1940 Plymouths received the longer block there is very little room to change a fan belt and doing so requires that you remove ; the inner fender, alternator, thermostat housing, and waterpump. Then you have to try and fish the belt out around the crank pulley which is an optimistic 3/4 of an inch away from the front crossmember. All this was brought on because when I mocked this up I used a narrow belt which matched the alternator and rides way too deep in the pulley, so since the alternator I used was only for mock up and didn't work I bought a new one with the wider pulley and thought I'd replace the belt with the correct wider one. Also of note is that I have moved the battery to the inner fender so had this been a roadside repair that would also have to be removed. If I was able to remove the radiator then I think I could cut some of the workload. Here's a couple of pics of the engine bay. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2015 Report Posted March 15, 2015 Having installed a 25" long engine in my P-15 I modified the front cross member for ease of belt replacement. I used an eight inch half pipe. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2015 Report Posted March 15, 2015 Also I hope those air cleaners flow enough air to not choke the engine. I double stacked my air cleaners to fix that problem. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 15, 2015 Report Posted March 15, 2015 Just to check you were doing this with the crank pulley in the right spot for belt replacement right? Quote
deathbound Posted March 16, 2015 Report Posted March 16, 2015 That is one sanitary engine bay!!! Quote
40plyrod Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Posted March 19, 2015 Thanks guys, I posted these pics just before I left for a mini holiday so I'm sorry I just getting back to reply. Thanks for the pictures Don I may to do that too. Bill, I love the wires too even though they were a bit expensive and one of my friends thinks they're kinda trendy. Brillman was a great company to deal with. Young Ed, Is there a special spot? Judging by how hard it was to replace I would guess I wasn't in the right spot ( I can't imagine it being harder) Deathbound, Thank you. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) The vibration damper has two flat spots. If these are on the sides (vertical), it's a little easier to get the fan belt(s) on and off. Edited March 19, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote
Young Ed Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 . Young Ed, Is there a special spot? Judging by how hard it was to replace I would guess I wasn't in the right spot ( I can't imagine it being harder) Deathbound, Thank you. The vibration damper has two flat spots. If these are on the sides (vertical), it's a little easier to get the fan belt(s) on and off. 2006 04 008 lower pulley.jpg Yes if you have the style damper shown you put one of the flats down to have more clearance. Donald thanks for the picture to clarify what I was trying to say. Quote
40plyrod Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Posted March 20, 2015 Yes if you have the style damper shown you put one of the flats down to have more clearance. Donald thanks for the picture to clarify what I was trying to say. Thanks. I'll have to go have a look, I didn't notice any flat spots... if by fluke it was in the right spot they sure make it tough to remove a belt if not then it may save me some modification. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted March 20, 2015 Report Posted March 20, 2015 I had a lot of trouble installing and removing my fan belts, in the process of adding a power steering pump. I cobbled the front crossmember for additional room, but still had clearance problems. It turns out that the front motor mount had compressed about a quarter-inch, lowering the front of the engine. I added a temporary shim, and got sufficient clearance for fan belt removal and installation. A new front motor mount is high on my to-do list. Quote
40plyrod Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Posted March 23, 2015 I had a lot of trouble installing and removing my fan belts, in the process of adding a power steering pump. I cobbled the front crossmember for additional room, but still had clearance problems. It turns out that the front motor mount had compressed about a quarter-inch, lowering the front of the engine. I added a temporary shim, and got sufficient clearance for fan belt removal and installation. A new front motor mount is high on my to-do list. Hmmm... after having a look and not seeing any flat spots on my crank pulley...I wonder if this could also be my problem. I can't believe that plymouth would make it so hard to change a belt, especially back then. Although having owned and worked on a pt cruiser I could see the direct lineage Quote
DonaldSmith Posted March 23, 2015 Report Posted March 23, 2015 It's the damper that has the flat spots. See if your front engine mount is compressed. There should be about a half-inch of rubber between the two steel bars. Mine was squished, so I added a (temporary) shim. My problem was exasberbated exacerbated exasperated made worse by adding another pulley. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 23, 2015 Report Posted March 23, 2015 Front mount should look like this. Quote
40plyrod Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Posted March 24, 2015 My front mount is not that thick and my crank pulley doesn't look like that either, obviously something is wrong on my end I'll try to dig up a picture. Quote
fstfish66 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 Front mount should look like this. thats was mighty nice of you to lift the motor to show how the balancer looks,,,more guys should be that energenic,,,lol 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.