Master Cylinder to Junction Block Piping

[Barry Maxwell]

Although it may be a long shot, I am wondering if anyone has photos showing the route of the 3/8" brake line between the master cylinder and the junction block that splits the flow between the front and rear brakes? As the attached photos show, I have temporarily mounted the bell housing and master cylinder in order to make up the line now when it's easier to work on. If no photos are available, a description of the route would be helpful. I am guessing that the line hugs the inside of the frame behind the LR engine mount. Thank you.

[pflaming]

Put this on your screen saver, it doesn't show all but it might give you some help. You must be building for exactness because the route isn't all that important other wise. I ran mine underneith the radiator near to the fuel line. Lots of luck on those lines, they can get fussy.

[Merle Coggins]

I took these not long ago for someone else. I hope they'll help you. I made mine as close to the original one as I could. You'll need to turn your elbow fitting another 90 degrees so that it's pointing at the lower mount bolt. Then the line comes off and makes a loop before heading back.

Then is bends around the engine mount and back to the block where there's a 90 degree bend into the block.

It's not easy getting a good pic from under the truck. I hope these help.

Merle

[John-T-53]

What's the purpose of the loop?

[Plymouthy Adams]

flex with out cracking due to vibrations in operation..

[TheMoose]

flex with out cracking due to vibrations in operation..

And is therefore extremely important to keep from crushing a Prius at the stoplight!

[Barry Maxwell]

Thank you guys for your responses. I also wondered about the reason for the loop, and now I know. Make sense.

Merle, when I saw your loop, I remembered seeing it before somewhere. I dug out my parts manual (which I should have done BEFORE my thread) and there it was!! Between your photos and the parts book, I now know what to do. I have the tools for the double flares and the 90 degree bends. However, I will have to play around a little to form the loop. Maybe it will be easy. I have said that before on projects and I have been generally wrong. We'll see.

Thanks again everyone.

Barry

[Plymouthy Adams]

ever see any steam lines running within an industrial complex..their expansion link is near that of a horse shoe to allow for the expansion/contraction in temps..a necessity to prevent cracks and pipe failure.high pressure steam is nothing to play with..

[TheMoose]

Thank you guys for your responses. I also wondered about the reason for the loop, and now I know. Make sense.

Merle, when I saw your loop, I remembered seeing it before somewhere. I dug out my parts manual (which I should have done BEFORE my thread) and there it was!! Between your photos and the parts book, I now know what to do. I have the tools for the double flares and the 90 degree bends. However, I will have to play around a little to form the loop. Maybe it will be easy. I have said that before on projects and I have been generally wrong. We'll see.

Thanks again everyone.

Barry

Try using a piece of PVC pipe of the correct size & gently wrap it around the pipe to get your loop.

[Barry Maxwell]

Try using a piece of PVC pipe of the correct size & gently wrap it around the pipe to get your loop.

Thanks. Another forum member PMed me with a similar suggestion using the hub of a sprocket. I will probably buy enough 3/8" brake line to play around with until I am happy with the loop, and then do the double flares and bends.

[John-T-53]

Glad this came up as I'm about to re-plumb the entire truck in stainless.

Since the master is mounted to the bellhousing and the brake lines to the frame, this is making sense now.

Making the loop will be a test for sure! Barry - post pics of your progress and good luck.

[Merle Coggins]

When I made that line I found a heavy pipe or pin laying around the shop with the same approximate diameter as the inside of the loop on my original line. I clamped it in a vice and gently wrapped the line around it to form the loop. Work gently, you can still kink it, or flatten it, if you get too aggressive.

Merle

[Barry Maxwell]

In order to close out this thread, I followed the advice of several of you (Merle, TheMoose, and pflaming in a PM) and formed the loop around a pipe (2-3/8" O.D.) as shown in the first photo and connected it to the T junction block as shown in the second photo. I am pleased with the final result. I must confess, however, that I screwed up the first loop I tried because I didn't maintain full contact with the pipe as I was forming the loop. The second try was much better. I sure hope that nothing shifts when I get the engine, bell housing, and transmission in (which is far in the future). Thanks to all of you for your help.

Barry

[John-T-53]

That's some slick piping there. Looks good!

[ggdad1951]

looks good! Takes me back to my brake headaches!