Eastwood Primers & paints

[Bingster]

Anybody had any experience with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Extreme Chassis Black vs. Rustoleum?

It seems to me after using Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and Rustoleum's primer that the Rustoleum held up better under very humid conditions than did the Eastwood.

Now, I will say that when I topcoated with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black Gloss, no rust pitting came through the finish.

But the Rustoleum primer doesn't have any rust pitting coming through under the same conditions that pitted the Wastwood Rust Encapsulator.

As for the topcoat, is Rustoleum's Gloss Black just as good or better than Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black?

It also seems that sandblasting a sheet metal panel or part is the key to preventing that rust pitting coming back through the primer.

[Plymouthy Adams]

it is your call always..but I do use Rustoleum products on the under carraige and other areas not so obvious to the eye. I will tell you this..the metal once properly prepped will do well with Rustoleum..but there is no rushing the product..it is a slow cure and must properly cure to do its intended job and do it well..using Rustoleum high gloss black (or any other color of choice) is great for a chassis and inner fenders and wheel well etc. You can mix the Rustoleum enamel with a high grade enamel reducer, use acrylic enamel hardener and also fish eye eliminator for a excellent top coat...use the ratio of 8 parts paint to one part hardener and use the reducer to obtain the viscosity for your spray gun/tip size..other off the shelf paints are not this good..some hardware store brand paints will not offer gloss no matter how you mix, spray, use agents and bake..not so with Rustoleum..it shines..

[Plymouthy Adams]

to me..I feel that sandblasting does 95% or better of rust removal and stop action to the same..but for that added measure of protection I still recommend any metal no matter how pretty after sandblasting be treated to a phosphoric rinse..the acid will ensure the rust particles in the pores of the metal not visible to your eye get converted/neutralized..

there are many thing you can do with phorphoric acid...you can accelertae it's action in a number of ways also and can actually remove rust scale in areas not reachable either with a sander or even sand paper in your hand or attached to a set of forceps..to me its always in my shop and ready to hand..unlike Rustoleum..you can 'push' this product..

[Big_John]

I have used Rustoleum for years now and have always had very good luck with it.

I sprayed their Rust Convertor last year on some rusty frame pieces. I was going to paint over it, but didn't get the chance. It looked good enough for my use anyway. Some of it ended up outside all winter (upstate New York State winter) covered in snow. Come spring, I saw no rust coming through anywhere. I was pretty impressed.

I've used it on some other stuff since then and painted over the Rust Convertor. While I can't speak for longevity, the finish came out very nice.

[Dan Hiebert]

I'll throw my lot in with Rustoleum. I've used the primer for rusty metal everywhere from uber humid coastal south Texas to the pickled winter roadways of the northeast. Get a good base, allow the primer to cure properly (amazing how much better results can be when you follow the manufacturer's directions ) and viola. I've never had any follow-on issues with rust, and I used it on some pretty sorry looking metal. I haven't tried the Eastwood stuff simply because I don't need to find something better.

[55 Fargo]

Tremclad rust metal primer, and there rust paint line,allamde by Rustoleum,works well for me too.

The other day I painted an air breather,it is so smooth andglossy looks likeBC/CC, a work of art.

A lot opf people knock these types of paints, that they are garbage, don't hold up, rust through right away. Some only will usePOR 15 or Zero Rust, they are great products, but for the money,the Rusto products are darn good stuff...

[55 Fargo]

Hers is another use of Tremclad(rustoleum) Rusty Metal Primer.

For autobody finishing( can already here some cringing), strip or sandblast panels, doors, fenders etc. Treat with acid wash, roll on or mix rusty metal primer with automotive enamel reducer, and spray.

2-3 coats, let this cure for a good while 2-3 weeks, then all fillers, glazes, 2 K urethane primers, lacquer based primers can be applied over the rusty metal primer, ONLY ONCE IT IS FULLY CURED. Rusty metal primer, has amazing adhesion, and corrosion reistance properties.

I have done my 47 Chrysler like this, rusty metal primer 1st, then fillers, then 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, then enamel with hardener for a topcoat.

This idea, was passed along to me by a fellow forum member, but i have since met others who have done and do the same. I have also met those who think this is a very poor idea, and many have told me so.

I have no problems with my paint job, and if I wanted to go BC/CC, would scuff, should a sealer, then shoot on the BC/CC, if I wanted to go that route, but I don't.

[TR Waters]

Hers is another use of Tremclad(rustoleum) Rusty Metal Primer.

For autobody finishing( can already here some cringing), strip or sandblast panels, doors, fenders etc. Treat with acid wash, roll on or mix rusty metal primer with automotive enamel reducer, and spray.

2-3 coats, let this cure for a good while 2-3 weeks, then all fillers, glazes, 2 K urethane primers, lacquer based primers can be applied over the rusty metal primer, ONLY ONCE IT IS FULLY CURED. Rusty metal primer, has amazing adhesion, and corrosion reistance properties.

I have done my 47 Chrysler like this, rusty metal primer 1st, then fillers, then 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, then enamel with hardener for a topcoat.

This idea, was passed along to me by a fellow forum member, but i have since met others who have done and do the same. I have also met those who think this is a very poor idea, and many have told me so.

I have no problems with my paint job, and if I wanted to go BC/CC, would scuff, should a sealer, then shoot on the BC/CC, if I wanted to go that route, but I don't.

You can do the same with a good epoxy primer........and not have to wait 2-3 weeks.

[55 Fargo]

You can do the same with a good epoxy primer........and not have to wait 2-3 weeks.

I know, this,and I have the time, not a production shop. I have used epoxy primers too.

Not that I have to explain, but my point of the post, is to let others know the versatility of the rusty metal primer,which BTW,sands a whole lot easier then epoxy primer.....and is less $, cheap epoxy primer Transtar is what $75.00 per gal, and high quality PPG DP90 approx $150.00 gal, more money,better product, but what I am explaining has worked well for me and others.

Edited August 3, 2012 by Rockwood

[plymouthcranbrook]

Rust Encapsalator did not work for me. Rust returned within six months in the garage Better results with POR 15 despite aggravation of prep work

[Bingster]

Did you topcoat the Rust Encapsalator? That was Eastwood's?