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help needed identifying engine


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Hi everyone I finally got my engine home and could really use some help identifying the engine.

the serial # m-83290 upper left

# b-17 9 below dizzy

#1402529 below starter

its a 25 inch block.

I tried searching the form and online but didn't get anywhere.

only that its a later engine because of the (m- serial #)

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If you pull the head off right away and measure the bore are stroke you'll know what you have. Identifying these Canadian blocks can be a lot tougher by the numbers... Save yourself some computer time and spend it in the shop. That's the only way I knew mine was a 251

I should also add that you don't want to be ordering any rebuild parts till the engine is in pieces.. Don't make the mistake I did and order everything and find out your pistons are wrong or different and then be back on the search. Not to mention you have to know if it's been opened and done before so you may need oversize parts

I was in a rush when I did mine, wish I would have slowed just a bit on some of it... Just my .02

Edited by 4mula-dlx
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I should also add that you don't want to be ordering any rebuild parts till the engine is in pieces.. Don't make the mistake I did and order everything and find out your pistons are wrong or different and then be back on the search. Not to mention you have to know if it's been opened and done before so you may need ovesize.

Couldn't agree more. Parts houses love to sell parts but really like to get the parts you need correct the first time. When you know what exactly what you need and for what, it just goes smoother for everyone.

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Dodge trucks used engines with an M serial # in 1958 and 59. But always with a 3 digit/letter prefix like M6W1, M6W2, M6W3, or M6D1, etc.

25 inch block indicates Canadian or possibly Marine application. The M suggests Crown Marine but I don't know enough about their serial numbers to know if they had such a thing or were part of the IND industrial engine series.

You can measure the stroke through a small pipe plug in the head, over #6 cylinder. Take out the plug, put a long screwdriver or stiff wire down the hole, turn the engine over and measure the difference between the top and bottom of the stroke. Be careful, if you use a wire bend a loop in the end so it can't fall in.

25" block could be 3 3/8 or 3 7/16 bore.

Is there any other label on the block? Look for a tag rivetted to the right side of the engine block, in the middle, just above the oil pan.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I measured the stroke today with the head on it was 6 1/2 inches , I can't seem to find the engine spec's for the different engine sizes I know I have seen them online before I guess is more than my Keys I keep losing..lol

Karl

Edited by karl head
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You'll have to measuring try again. Longest strioke engine is 5 " . Sounds like you measured from the top of the head to the piston at the of the bottom of it's stroke. You have to subtract the measurement from the top of the head to the piston at the top of it's stroke.

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Just a thought, but shouldn't you pop the head off to make sure you don't have some bad cylinders.... Then you know exactly the stroke and bore size.. 218 is different bore them the 251/265.... The stroke is the only thing different in the two bigger 25" blocks as far as I know?

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My thoughts exactly. but what I am trying to do right now is get a feeling which block I have . Its most likely from 1959 and its a can engine 25" I am hoping that the stroke will give me a better idea. I want to do a compression test before I decide if I want to rebuild it this year or not. I have some long term health issues that may interfere with my schedule and plans. so if it has good compression I may just put it in and go from there. Hard to decide right now and Like I said earlier if I could figure out the size first I can order the parts before I tearl it down.

Thanks Karl

Edited by karl head
changed wording
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About all I'd order ahead of a teardown would be gasket set. Without teardown you won't know if it's already been bored or if the crank has been turned or needs turning and that's only the beginning of what may need replacement.

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Compression tests are kind of pointless if you can't run the engine to operating temp. You could get a check and have good cold psi and then find out warmed up it's way down and burning oil bad, not to mention engine knocks you can't find till its in and running.

If the block has been sitting any more then a few years it's just not worth the time and energy to install without either a full rebuild or at least a tear down and new gasket set.

We all like to rush to the finish line if driving these old girls, but if they blow up after your first ride then it puts a real sour taste in your mouth and also can do damage to the point the block and components may become useless

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Hey Karl;

You may not need to do a full rebuild .... but there are some tasks I believe should be given serious consideration at this stage. Especially if you don't know the history of this engine. I just went through this with my engine. I got very lucky as I discovered that my engine had been fully gone through, run for a short time and then left to sit. Even though it was in pretty decent shape it had been left with water in the radiator.The cooling passages were full of crud and there was a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan and valve gallery.

I would if I were you...Remove the water pump and inspect the distribution tube. Flush the block while you are at it. Pull the head and oil pan. This will allow you to get a much better idea of what condition this engine is actually in. You can't really tell what you might have without doing this. If it is all good get a gasket set and button her up. Chances are you are going to find a few things that require attention. I replaced a lot of fasteners and trued up the manifolds.

Hope this is helpful.

Jeff

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Thanks everyone for your Input, I have decided to open the old girl up and take a peek, as it will give me a chance to evaluate the engine condition and freshen it up a little , rings and bearing gaskets. its been sitting a long time, since the seventies so it would be a wise move anyway. I'm glad you guys talked me into doing it right.

Thanks Karl

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