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Posted

After reading search results, seems Steele is the current vender of choice for the rubber mouldings.

My glass goes out this morning, going to take Hank's advice. (It's only two blocks to the country from my house, sure tempted to sneak over there froa longer ride) Any installation tips would be appreciated. I have three good glass sources so that's not an issue.

Question: tinting: green or gray and how dark can one go / should one go. Removal: That old rubber will be hard, do I soften it, do I just get a good exactor knife and 'open it up, are they brittle, should I put an X of tape on the surface so they will not 'shatter'?

Posted

1. They will not shatter since they are laminated glass.

2. If you are using new rubber, save youself some time and agrivation and use a razor knife to cut off the outer lip of the rubber molding so that the assembly can be pushed into the cab.

3. I have standard green tinted glass as it was cheaper than going with clear from my glass vendor. This is because I would have had to buy 4 full sheets to get everything done and have a safety stamp on each piece. Each full sheet has 2 saftey stamps in oposite corners so he'd only be able to get 2 pieces out of each sheet. Since the green tint is used commonly on off road equipment, such as what I work on daily, and it doesn't require the safety mark, he could use the rest of those sheets for other customers. He doesn't have much request for clear glass for those applications. In the end I'm quite pleased with how it looks. You don't even notice the tint unless you really look for it.

Merle

Posted

use a razor knife to cut off the outer lip of the rubber molding Are you referring to the new molding?

Posted

each state hs an acceptable level of tint for glass..not all glass will fall under the same tint/shade requirement..windshield and front door glass is one acceptable level where the rear glasses of van and suv's can be extremely dark..rear glass also is a set limit and depends on mirror application and use of vehicle..again.vans and suv's get a an extra advantage as do wagons and such..these shades as acceptable per your laws in light transfer in percentages..do chek you local before getting tinted glass..

a reputable tinter of glass in your area should be very well read on the limits and can assist you in the light level transfer numbers..

most glass in light blue, gray, lt bronze and green are usually acceptable..but again...it only takes a minute to be certain..

Posted
use a razor knife to cut off the outer lip of the rubber molding Are you referring to the new molding?

That's for removal. Doing that to the new molding means you get to buy another one.

Posted

Thanks guys! I just ordered the windshield moulding from Steele because of forum reader satisfaction. I'm will have to watch the mail or quickly send a check to Steele. The moulding is more expensive than the glass!!!!:(

Posted

windshield glass is expensive from these folks regardless it seem of application..but vent seals..whoa..those send you into sticker shock quick..I also noticed a marked increase in price of fuzzy strip and wiper for the door glass on my last trip to the Restoration Specialties booth at the swap meet..big jump in price..another product that has jumped through the roof since last season..R134A refrigerant..

Posted
Thanks guys! I just ordered the windshield moulding from Steele because of forum reader satisfaction. I'm will have to watch the mail or quickly send a check to Steele. The moulding is more expensive than the glass!!!!:(

I'm replacing my windshields too and I ordered the gasket from Steele. Just received it in the mail yesterday along with the 3 back windows as well......very spendy $$$$.... but the quality looks 2nd to none.

Posted (edited)

Looks like Merle has you covered on the removal. Do it carefully as most likely is is original factory glass and will serve as a pattern. The first time I restored my truck I installed the new glass and rubber by myself on a truck I painted by myself. The second time around I was just too nervous considering the investment and quality of the paint job.

The good news is that you are not worried about the paint just getting the glass cut and installed and so here I feel qualified to give you some advise, tips and tricks.

First thing I'd do is to Google the topic "Vintage Auto Glass Installation" (or use your imagination). Hopefully something on YouTube will show up.

Make sure the steel window frame of your cab is free of dirt and debris. It would not hurt in your case to use a a 3M Dish Washing Pad and soap. If there is exposed steel and any rusted area you may even want to go so far as using a primer or Por-15 treatment to deter future rust from occuring.

The glass is placed into the rubber gasket (is your extrusion a single piece that has both drivers and passengers side with a vulcanized center divider all in one?)

Prepare a good sized bucket of hot soapy water and keep the squeeze bottle of Dawn or Palmoline (that you steal from your wife) close at hand along with some wet towels (and some dry ones too) The Idea is to make the rubber slippery so that installs easily.

You will definately need a helper or two. After the glass is installed into the gasket a rope (clothesline works well) is placed all around the portion of the extrusion that bridges the inner and outer steel window frame. Once the glass and molding assembly is put into position, start by pulling the rope so that the inside lip of the extrusion is drawn past the inside face of the steel window frame of the cab.

If you do chicken out (which in my mind is acceptable) and decide to have it professionally installed (it should not cost more than $50-$75 because it will take an experienced guy not more than 20 minutes) be sure the guy is not a young kid or at least the son of a family glass business. Ask very specific questions like have you done this before.

FosterFarmsChicken2.jpg

Good Luck,

Hank :)

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

is your extrusion a single piece Yes, it's a one piece 'mould'.

Called around and can get a cut to 'fit my pattern' clear safety glass for the windshield, for $45 each. I think that is reasonable. He said tint was not legal in CA., that some antique car buffs go tint anyway and the cops let it slide. NOT ME.

Posted

I had a Window Fitter come around and install mine. Well, it ended up that we installed the windscreens together! From memory the glass went in from the inside with the aid of a couple of large suction cups. I don't think that the job would be done easily with one person.

Desotodav

Posted

i installed my windshield (both sides) with new rubber by myself. it was time-consuming, and not easy, but i was successful.

however, if the need arises to install again, i will probably retain the services of a windshield installing professional. just saying.

wally

Posted

I'm having a mobile glass guy come out and do it right in my driveway. He works on mostly vintage cars & trucks and he said he'll handle it no problem.

I've never replaced glass before, and I surely didn't want to touch the corner glass.

Posted
I'm having a mobile glass guy come out and do it right in my driveway. He works on mostly vintage cars & trucks and he said he'll handle it no problem.

I've never replaced glass before, and I surely didn't want to touch the corner glass.

Glass going into the stock one or the chopped one? Have you got the corner glass cut down for the chopped one yet and if so, how did that go?

Posted
Glass going into the stock one or the chopped one? Have you got the corner glass cut down for the chopped one yet and if so, how did that go?

All stock glass sizes, nothing's been chopped.

Posted
Wonder, would a couple of plumber plungers work?

Negative. But there are tool rental places that have them. Looks like the general consensus even from one time veterans like myself is given the choice, let a specialty job be done by a specialist. Besides if it breaks, it's on him.

Hank :)

Posted

When I pulled all of my glass out the windshield center divider fell apart. When you order the windshield rubber does it come with the center divider, or is that something else I have to order?

Cab is at the paint shop being painted now. Glass will be the next thing to go in when it gets back.

Posted

on the cars I know some sell it one piece molded in and others sell it as a separate install item..be sure to ask your selected vendor which model he sells..as a side note if you have reveal molding you must purchase the right rubber to make that install possible also

Posted (edited)

". . . if you have reveal molding you must purchase the right rubber to make that install possible also. . ." WHAT is reveal molding? I have mine on order from Steele. I hope it's the correct molding.

Edit: Tim, no stainless trim on my truck, whew! That moulding and the discs were the two most expensive parts thus far. I can get my windshield pieces; clear glass and install for *80.00 / glass. I wonder if it's legal to drive without glass, that eliminates the cracks, and wear goggles?

Edited by pflaming
Posted

reveal molding is the stainless trim that surrounds the glass and is inserted in a slot provided in the windshield seal..now I am not sure how many trucks out there got reveal molding..I just know that there is a picture in one of my books showing one with the stainless in place...it is for that reason I covered that base in my post..

Posted

I just put my new windshields and new gasket from Steele's back in and it fits like a glove.

I used the "Vulcanized" gasket. It's spendy, but worth the money. It's all molded with the center bar included.

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