furiousgeorge Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I just brought home a nice looking 251 from what I was told was a '49 Chrysler. It had been overbored (40), and then left to sit and got itself stuck. It was taken apart again, and the fellow I got it from bought new pistons and rings for it. It came with everything, including the auto tranny. I have a '49 1/2 ton that has a 218, but is unusable. Both engines are 25". I'm thinking that I can't use the 218 flywheel on the 251? if not, does anyone know where I could get one? I was also wondering if the heads are different, if one would get me a bit more compression? Are there any other interchangable parts between the two? Just so I know what to keep for spare. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I just brought home a nice looking 251 from what I was told was a '49 Chrysler. It had been overbored (40), and then left to sit and got itself stuck. It was taken apart again, and the fellow I got it from bought new pistons and rings for it. It came with everything, including the auto tranny. I have a '49 1/2 ton that has a 218, but is unusable. Both engines are 25". I'm thinking that I can't use the 218 flywheel on the 251? if not, does anyone know where I could get one? I was also wondering if the heads are different, if one would get me a bit more compression? Are there any other interchangable parts between the two? Just so I know what to keep for spare.Thanks! Yes you can use the 218 flywheel on the 251 crank, they are both 8 bolt, unlike the US built 23.5 engine witha 4 bolt crank. THose heads should be identical, have the head shaved, to increase your compression. Have the flywheel from the truck machined, new clutch, good for a long time. Other parts, the fuel pump, water pump, distributor, intake exhaust manifolds, starter motor and bell housing from truck to be used with 218 flyweel on the 251. Valve cover, head, as long as both engines are either internal or external by-pass for the water pump, being both 1949 engines, they should be the same. Hope this helps answer some of your questions. You should notice a big boost witha 251 compared to the 218, about 18 hp difference right off the bat.......FRed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Took a quick look at the engine to get numbers, and see if what I think is what I got. I couldn't find anything to help decode these, so hopefully someone here can help! Drivers side- 1141329 M19 C48 1 1311C Head- E176 1072812- the 7 and 2 are very nearly on top of each other, could be one or the other doesn't belong? I'm told its a 251 from a '49 Chrysler. There is something odd though, it came with what looks like an oil filter canister? Seems to bolt to the drivers side, though both areas around both bolt holes on the canister are broken off. Both of my 218s don't have this? The engine had been rebuilt, and the old pistons are marked for a 40 overbore, but theres no rebuild tag or anything I can find. Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 FG, the oil filter canister, is a full flow type, and the best you can have for this engine. It was mostly installed on Chrysler 251, and most likely the later 265, and the industrial engines.The smaller engine 218, 228 ,did not have this, they have by-pass parttial flow oil filters with the smaller lines. Take some pics, of this area, and will see what you need, I can get you the filter for this, if needed. C48 1 1311C this is a 49 Chrysler Windsor or Royal 251 engine, built at Windsor Ontario "C" stands for Canadian. The head, if it is stock, will have an external by-pass water pump, no little bump on front edge of the head, this featured started in 1951. Please post pics, if you can, will get this sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks for the info! I'll get some pics up today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 (edited) OK, ran out and got a few quick pcis, I'm in the middle of painting our entry, so if you need to see anything els, just say and I'll get more/better pics later on tonite when I've got some more time. The water pump is buried at the moment, I'll get that pic later. I spent a year welding, 5 yrs ago, but only used a MIG rebuilding farm equipment, so I never had any experience with cast stuff, is it fixable? I do have both of the brokem off parts. Edited May 6, 2012 by furiousgeorge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 George, that is the correct head, the block and head are external waterpump bypass type. The T/stat housing confirms this also. The mount for the full flow oil filter tower, not sure if it could be brazed or silver soldered, not enough knowledge in this area, getting another might be the best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 You won't be able to seal the area between the two ports on the base mount. If one was intact, it could be welded or brazed. If it's in 3 pieces and seperated cleanly between the ports it might be possible, welding one section on completely and then the other. My choice would be to look for a replacement base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Replacement oil filter housings are available. I have bought a few. I also do not recommend welding the broken one. I do recommend drilling and tapping the replacement to install a petcock valve so as you can drain the oil from the housing with ease. A couple of filter replacement numbers are also pictured below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Try to find the correct oil filter housing. They are rare but there should be one out there someplace. No moving parts and they never wear out, it's just a matter of finding one. If all else fails and you are desperate you could tap the oil holes for hose fittings and run a new remote filter. This is a common racing part available from auto parts stores, Summit Racing, etc. They use a standard spin on filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 So the Canadian 251 incher doesn't have the spitfire logo......interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 So the Canadian 251 incher doesn't have the spitfire logo......interesting. You sparked my interest so I went out to the garage and checked 2 1949 Chrysler engines. Neither said spitfire on the head. But I have a spare head, provenance unknown, that does say spitfire. Have also seen a 53 with Spitfire. So maybe Canada used the Spitfire head but got it later than the US??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I spotted this interesting Spitfire head on Epay today... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Flathead-Chrysler-230-Spitfire-CYLINDER-Head-HAT-RACK-Original-Custom-Wall-Hemi-/200900120959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec694917f&_uhb=1#ht_1210wt_1275 . ... and I wasn't even searching in the 'hat rack' section !!! Desotodav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 This may seem like a stupid question, but I just gotta ask. Isn't that head on backwards or am I missing something? MBF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Back'ards....just to hoist motor it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Flathead Chrysler 230 Spitfire CYLINDER Head HAT RACK Original Custom Wall Hemi What is wrong with this description? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Flathead Chrysler 230 Spitfire CYLINDER Head HAT RACK Original Custom Wall Hemi What is wrong with this description? just another take on advertising and the all so catch word of today "repurpose" one can make not only wall art but funcitonal hat/coat hanger by attaching rods to the spark plug holes..(do not use the peel and stick hangers however) I hawked a piece of GM junk (early 50 chevy fender spear at the last swap meet) by tagging it as early native American lance head..lady said it was just the piece she needed for wall art.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Chrysler 230? I dont think so. Original custom? How can it be both? Hemi? I dont think so Wall art I can accept Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 it's all creative liberties..hemi and 230 being most creative I give you..original custom..well maybe..little sales tactic in place by Ma Mopar.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I got to going through my pile of engine parts (from two 218's and a 251), and in the last year I somehow managed to mark all the 251 parts except the crank, starter and generators. How can I tell which crank is the 251? And is there any difference in the 218/251 starters and gens? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Ok, I got the starter figured out, the gens look exactly the same so i just kept the best one. With the crank, I looked up main and rod bearings, and the 251 is listed under a different part number then the 218. I can't find the actual diameter of the main and rod journals. Does anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Ok, I think I got it figured. I found specs for a 251 crank, mains 2.50 and rods 2.125. The one I'm thinking is the 251 is 2.50 and 2.10. The engine had been rebuilt and bored 40 over, so its not a stretch the think the crank was ground down as well. The crank I know is a 218 has rods that are 2.30. Hopefully I'm right. If not, I'll be on the search for a new crank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Ok, I think I got it figured. I found specs for a 251 crank, mains 2.50 and rods 2.125. The one I'm thinking is the 251 is 2.50 and 2.10. The engine had been rebuilt and bored 40 over, so its not a stretch the think the crank was ground down as well. The crank I know is a 218 has rods that are 2.30. Hopefully I'm right. If not, I'll be on the search for a new crank! I would assume you will take the block and crankshaft to a machine shop for inspection and measurements prior to buying any engine parts. You may find that the machine shop can recommend and purchase the correct parts you need for less money than you will pay on the open market. And you will not be guessing on the correct sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Con rod journal dia for the 218, 230 is 2.0615 - 2.0625.. I'm guessing you missed a zero on the 218 meaurement and would indicate both were turned at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Yup, getting the block and crank checked over by a reputable shop, and will leave tracking down parts to them. Thinking back I think you might be right in the missing zero, I'll measure again tomorrow. Once I figure out PayPal, I'll be getting a front disk conversion kit on its way, then things will finally be getting into gear on the old girl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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