RobRobitaille Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Thanks Rockwood That is what i was looking for. With 3.55 gears do you think there would be enough power to pull 2 Atv's on a trailer about 70mph. I am not sure i have the room in my shop in the moment to roll the truck ahead far enough to get one wheel turn. But if it has 3.73 I think i should be ok with a large tire? My Tundra's lease is up in a year and a half and I would like to get a small car and use the dodge to fill my truck needs. But I want to start on the right track and need the drive line to be reliable and capable to do the job. I understand it wont drive like my tundra. Thanks again I enjoyed your videos on you tube your car appears to run effortless at 60 mph. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I think you would be fine with either 3.5 or 3.73 gears, pulling a small trailer with what 2 quads? How much gross weight we talking with trailer and quads? Hey you really need to drive 1 of these trucks at 100-110 kmh, then decide, if pulling trailers I would keep it to 90 kmh, unless the road is a smooth carpet, these old trucks were not intended to pull trailers at high speeds, lower speeds Yes. IMHO, get truck road worthy, and go check it out on a highway, they are fun to drive, but ride much like big trucks, solid axle up front, heavy springs etc. I would also suggest upgrade to disc brakes if hauling trialers too. If your trailer has trailer brakes, might be wise to upgrade to 12 volt in truck also.... Thanks RockwoodThat is what i was looking for. With 3.55 gears do you think there would be enough power to pull 2 Atv's on a trailer about 70mph. I am not sure i have the room in my shop in the moment to roll the truck ahead far enough to get one wheel turn. But if it has 3.73 I think i should be ok with a large tire? My Tundra's lease is up in a year and a half and I would like to get a small car and use the dodge to fill my truck needs. But I want to start on the right track and need the drive line to be reliable and capable to do the job. I understand it wont drive like my tundra. Thanks again I enjoyed your videos on you tube your car appears to run effortless at 60 mph. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 The trailer with both quads is about 2500lbs Too much for an economy car. But I was hoping to have a dual purpose for this old truck. I also have a 73 Riviera boat tail with the Buick 455 that I redid about 6 years ago. It could pull them but I don't want to put a hitch on it if i can help it. Thanks again I have a fargo parts truck with the diff still in it maybe it would have the 3.73 in it Thanks for you help and I will look in to the disk breaks for sure. And i fully intend to go 12 volts. Do you order most of your things from the States or are you able to find most things here in Canada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 The trailer with both quads is about 2500lbs Too much for an economy car. But I was hoping to have a dual purpose for this old truck. I also have a 73 Riviera boat tail with the Buick 455 that I redid about 6 years ago. It could pull them but I don't want to put a hitch on it if i can help it. Thanks again I have a fargo parts truck with the diff still in it maybe it would have the 3.73 in it Thanks for you help and I will look in to the disk breaks for sure. And i fully intend to go 12 volts. Do you order most of your things from the States or are you able to find most things here in Canada Thats a good load for the truck, "2500lbs", at speeds of 80-90 kmh, fine, higher speeds, maybe not so much. The issue is handling and stopping, not that the engine can't handle it. Lots of stuff in Canada, for example buy disc brake plates from Old daddy on this forum, buy rest from local parts houses. I gave you a number for Norm, trust me He knows his stuff, ships world wide. I have also bought lots of items in the US, but lots is available in Canada, just depends on what you are sourcing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) I started removing the old patches that were scabbed in top of the fenders and front clip this afternoon they came off not so bad but there is some Swiss cheese underneath. Edited September 27, 2012 by RobRobitaille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I think I'm going to need buy a small metal break and sheer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I think I'm going to need buy a small metal break and sheer. Before you cut the piece out, make a pattern with reference or witness marks so you can locate the holes properly. If you don't mangle the piece cutting it out, you can use to make a pattern for the patch. Cutoff wheels and a vise will do the same job as a shear and brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I just couldn't help myself, but that patina is awesome. What does the rest of the truck look like. Leave it as is and and call your truck "Picaso on Wheels"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) I just couldn't help myself, but that patina is awesome. What does the rest of the truck look like. Leave it as is and and call your truck "Picaso on Wheels"! LOL.. It it kinda cool how all the different coats of paint layered:) I see some guys on youtube using chemical stripper to take panels right down to bare metal. Do you guys recommend this Edited September 27, 2012 by RobRobitaille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Chemical strippers work to a varying degree. I'm in the process of repainting and repairing the body parts on a lawn tracotr. It had been repainted once before. Stripper took off the repaint layer and wouldn't touch the original paint ( suspect Imron or similar). That came off with stripper wheels and 80 grit on a DA. As with any chemical product, certain precautions need to be taken during use and proper disposal practices. There's also a proper method for panel prep after it's use that must be adhered to. Just follow ALL the directions on it's use and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 LOL.. It it kinda cool how all the different coats of paint layered:) I see some guys on youtube using chemical stripper to take panels right down to bare metal. Do you guys recommend this I used 90% chem spray on stripper on my truck and it worked great, it really seemed to eat the old paint, the toughest was the red overspray it got somewhere in its life. Wash all panels with alcohol and then soap and water, hand dry immediately !! I missed a couple small spots on my roof the first time and they bubbled after a few weeks with the new paint, but seriously half the time of sanding and easier on your lungs then dust imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Got side tracked for an other year but got it running this afternoon I had been soaking the cylinders with ATF for the last few months. I cleaned the points and put the fuel line to a gas can took the top of the carb off and put some cleaner in it and hit the starter vroom! Started like it was running yesterday. With alot of smoke Lol. SO I adjusted the timming and carb a bit and its idling smooth and firing up as soon as you hit the starter. It had 20lbs of oil presure at idle hot and climed to 40 at about 2000 rpm. Its running good I will still take it apart and clean it and measure all the clearances before I put it on the road but at least now I can move it around the yard easily. Going to build a shed this week to put it in then I can bring one body pannel in at a time and have room to work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 I noticed a tag that says it has sodium cooled valves. My service manual says only the 251 and larger displacement engines had them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Here are a few photos. Decided to start with the worst piece. I will load more when my wife gets them off the camera. I am planning to use this truck as a toy hauler and am wondering if I shouldn't go with a Dakota donor drive line. Anyone have and thoughts on that? I have a healthy 318 with only about 6-7k on it and have a line on a 91 Dakota with an A518 trans and 3.55 posi 8.25 rear end for $500 Any opinions on how to set this truck up are apreaciated. Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I could not get any of the pictures to open.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Im not sure why the pics are not working for you they worked when I clicked on them. I am going to post a few more maybe they will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Hope you can see these ones! I cut out the rotted metal shaped and butt welded new metal in its place then skim coated it with short strand fiberglass to seal and smooth my welds (Recomended by the local auto body supply shop) then primed it. Oh and I dont have a grill or marker lights so I fitted this one instead and plan to make a grill. I am not trying to make it original I just want a fun reliable truck to haul our toys around on the weekends. Anyone see any steps I should have added to how I have done my repairs I am by no means a body man so any advice is apreaciated. Thanks Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I think you've done a great job considering how rotted that was! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
df2-26 dave Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 hey rob i have a 1950 1 ton and im located just north of barrie. id love to have a look at your truck and talk to some other pilot house guys. feel free to shoot my an email higgsink@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I think you've done a great job considering how rotted that was! Thanks! Its reasuring to hear you think I'm on the right track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Make sure you seal both sides of any repairs, check for and reweld any pinholes in the welds. Rounding the corners of patches will lessen the amount of weld shrinkage you get. Epoxy primer would have been my choice for sealing over the short strand but it's been used successfully often. Just be sure it's waterproof. Regular filler can wick moisture through. Other than that , you're doing well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Make sure you seal both sides of any repairs, check for and reweld any pinholes in the welds. Rounding the corners of patches will lessen the amount of weld shrinkage you get. Epoxy primer would have been my choice for sealing over the short strand but it's been used successfully often. Just be sure it's waterproof. Regular filler can wick moisture through. Other than that , you're doing well. Thanks I did use the short strand on both sides. The the primer I was recommended is a urethane direct to metal sealer It mixes 4:1 with a hardener. Is that an epoxy primer? or something different? I appreciate the advice. This is the first time I have done metal work to this extent and I need all the help I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Hey I found a T5 adapter kit on ebay anyone done it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Thanks I did use the short strand on both sides. The the primer I was recommended is a urethane direct to metal sealer It mixes 4:1 with a hardener. Is that an epoxy primer? or something different? I appreciate the advice. This is the first time I have done metal work to this extent and I need all the help I can get. Sounds like a 2k primer, probably sandable and if so it typical of what I use for blocking. The epoxy I'm familiar with mixes 1 to 1 and gets top coated with the 2k primer after the epoxy flashes. Direct to metal sealers will work. Sand the bare metal with 80 grit so the paint has something to grab on to and stick to the paint line of the dtm primer. Get or download the tech sheets for it. It'll give you recommendations on how to use it and the followup materials that can go on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 The the big three (types of primers) are all competeing as the "best all in one primer" which is confusing to the weekender whose not watching the market. The rule of thumb was/is Epoxy for bare metal, rusted hard to reach areas and brackets. Because its high in resin(sticky), rust resisted, but a hard to shape primer. Poly primers are for body repair areas (high build, like shooting bodyfiller), not the best for flat panels, but fairly easy to shape. Then Urethane primers for the final sand, shaping and filling tiny stracthes. BUT.....its seems companies want all three to be everything and all advetise the same thing "goes on bare metal, easy to sand, and can be top coated" Not all of the poly primers are built the same, and epoxy (because its the cheapest) seem to pull the most people in who want to try completes. The only primer I left out are etching primers (contains acid), because in most circles they have become obsolete with the new formulas for the first two primers I mentioned. If I had to pick one "all in one" it would be a poly primer. And to add a little confusion on top of that....sealers are usally epoxy, again because of the resin content. Color goes on top of Sealers as "wet on wet" then the clear coat. Sealers can be sanded if there is a problem with application, but its not as good as a final sand urethane. Having said that, Poly primers advertise that if you cut the primer with reducer, it can be used as a sealer.....see where all the confusion comes in? Primers are the most prominant part of the paint job and the most complicated and confusing. But it is what makes the final "look and feel" of the paint job. Uh....how did I get on this box? Guess I'll get down now.....lol 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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