48 Desoto Project thread...

[thrashingcows]

SO since this is a universal sending unit, I would need to modify it to fit the new tank. First I had to measure the depth of the tank. The tank measured out at 8", and with the gasket about 8.125". So according to the instruction sheet, it vaguely tells you what length to cut things. So I had to cut it about 4" from the under side of the top down to the pivot point. And then the float arm needs to be cut, and bent to about the same.

So first of I had to disassemble the unit. Cut the tie straps, and unscrewed everything.

Then I measured down the 4" and saw that I would need to flip the mount around so the pivot point would be sitting at the 4" mark.

And since I wanted the ohm range switched around I just flipped it upside down and mounted it. Now it will read 10 ohms full, and 90 ohms empty....perfect!!

[thrashingcows]

When I finished getting it together, I noticed that the sender was sitting crooked...it turned out since I flipped it around the upper screw was now hitting the solid center and causing it to twist up.

I thought about drilling a hole to clear the screw, but then decided to find a small nut that would space the screw out farther, but still allow it to mount properly. Hit my bucket-O-bolts and found one in short order.

[thrashingcows]

Now I had to cut the excess off off the main body, and measure and bend the float arm.

I measure 4" from the center of the float back and made a mark. Then I made another mark at 5", since I would have to cut the arm, and then bend it to 90* at eh 4" mark. As well as that extra goes through the center of the meter and fastens everything tight at the pivot point.

I put the float arm rod in the vise, and then gently tapped it until it was about at 90*....You will also need to file the end you cut to take off any rough metal edges, so it will slide through the meter easily.

[thrashingcows]

I just had to zip tie the wiring tight, and out of the way, and it was all done.

It's a bit tough to snap the arm tight into place, but the use of so large channel lock pliers, and some finesse will pop everything into place.

[thrashingcows]

Now to get it into the tank. I tried to get it to go through the hole in the tank with the float arm fastened securely in place...nope would not go. So I had to loosen the arm from the clips, but still keep it through the pivot points, and then feed it down into the tank carefully. Then once the float arm was down inside the tank I had to carefully snap it back into place.

Once this was done then it was just screw it down. I used the gasket, and screws that came with the tank. The sending unit came with a gasket and screws as well.

All done!! From start to finish probably took me about 30 minutes....not tough at all. Now to get the tank installed in the car.

Edited January 1, 2013 by thrashingcows

[55 Fargo]

Brian I have the identical tank in my 47 Chrysler, not exactly stock, but a decent tank, no complaints whatsoever.....

[thrashingcows]

Brian I have the identical tank in my 47 Chrysler, not exactly stock, but a decent tank, no complaints whatsoever.....

Thanks for the good review on the tank. It sure looks to be a nice tank though.

[55 Fargo]

A few pics of my gas tank, when I installed it 5 years ago.

I have other pics of the filler neck area roll over valve installation, but can't find them now...

[Frank Elder]

Rock......how come you didn't put any rubber between the straps and the tank?

[pflaming]

WOW! I learned alot tonight. Thank you ever so much for the explanations and the very good pictures.

[RobertKB]

Rock......how come you didn't put any rubber between the straps and the tank?

I was wondering that, too. When I put my tank back in my '38 Chrysler after having it cleaned, I just cut some old tire tubes up and glued thin strips onto the straps. Worked perfectly.

Edited January 3, 2013 by RobertKB

[55 Fargo]

I was wondering that, too. When I put my tank back in my '38 Chrysler after having it cleaned, I just cut some old tire tubes up and glued thin strips onto the straps. Worked perfectly.

Rock......how come you didn't put any rubber between the straps and the tank?

Whatcha you Fellas think I am stooopid;)........LOL:D

This is after 5 years of gravel road travel, paint and undercoat over spray, and it is dusty under there now,needs a good wash ans touch up with rocker guard black. All is in good shape, see I need a nut/bolt for rear left fender support.

[thrashingcows]

WOW! I learned alot tonight. Thank you ever so much for the explanations and the very good pictures.

Thank you!....and your very welcome...I do these pics and info with the hopes that someone will now be able to tackle that project they might not have wanted to do.

Rockwood....thank you for the pics of your tank, appreciate it. I'm assuming the reason you set your tank down, away from the body, was to clear the 90* elbow fitting that came out of the tank, for the roll over valve assembly?

Edited January 4, 2013 by thrashingcows

[55 Fargo]

Thank you!....and your very welcome...I do these pics and info with the hopes that someone will now be able to tackle that project they might not have wanted to do.

Rockwood....thank you for the pics of your tank, appreciate it. I'm assuming the reason you set your tank down, away from the body, was to clear the 90* elbow fitting that came out of the tank, for the roll over valve assembly?

Hi Brian, yes that was my reason, all has been and is well with this install....

[thrashingcows]

I was not going to put in the roll over valve assembly...simply because of that space difference. If you run a vented gas cap it should be OK. But out of curiousity...where did you mount the roll over valve?

[55 Fargo]

I was not going to put in the roll over valve assembly...simply because of that space difference. If you run a vented gas cap it should be OK. But out of curiousity...where did you mount the roll over valve?

It is installed in left rear fender area, higher than the tank, easy install, vents gas tank, and has the roll over feature. ITs up to you, don't see why you would have to install it.

I fabbed a bracket for the valve, used fuel line, and it is installed.

I used spacers made of hard wood, and thin rubber insulator, wood spacers are painted, they don't get wet anyway, and will last many years........

[55 Fargo]

Hi Brian, see that you installed the 47 Plym Canadian 218, dry clutch and 3 spd trans, how d you like it?

I have the same set-up in my 47 Chrysler, and have often thought fluid drive would be neat, but do not think I want to ever attempt going back to that. In Canada a lot of the Desotos and Lower line Chrysler Royals had fluid drive and 3 spd trans, this could be done, without the electronics needed for the M5/6 trans.

I do know 1 thing, the regular clutch, gives more off the line than a fluid drive and M5 trans, have driven those, and know the difference.....

[thrashingcows]

Well I have only had it around the block...since it's not registered in Canada yet..have to pass Gov't inspection first. But it seems to get up and go not too bad.

I actually just sold the old fluid drive, and matching carb to a local fellow who lurks around here. He recognized Ol' Fernando......He has a 47 Desoto 4dr with a stuck motor, and no tranny. This last weekend I had a bunker "Craigslist" weekend...4 sales in 2 days!!

[thrashingcows]

Well a a fellow on one of the other boards I frequent asked a question about those zip ties I had holding the wiring tight on the new sending unit. He asked...."Wonder how those plastic ties will hold up to the ethanol, and gasoline, in your new tank?" Darn good question I thought.

So a few of us bantered this thought around and finally came up with a suitable solution. Why not use stainless, copper, or brass wire, instead of plastic zip ties. Well it just so happens I have one of the old battery cables from Ol' Fernando...the plastic covering was mostly baked off. It was in my copper/brass scrap bucket. So out it came to donate a couple copper strands to the cause.

Figured now would be the best time to take care of this...tank on the ground, and empty.

Here it is all wired up...so to speak...

[thrashingcows]

Well been busy trying to get the kitchen finished, so have not had much time to work on the old Desoto.  But working on things here and there.

I have removed the dual Heaters, and then got the dash  and wiring out.

[thrashingcows]

Then I had to get the fresh air cowl assembly out.  Which was a bit of work since the hinges were seized, and the Phillips head screws holding things together had not moved in 60+ years.  I had to use a lot of fire to get things apart.  Eventually I got it all apart, did not burnt the car,, or garage down either.

[thrashingcows]

Surprising everything was in good shape...no rust out.  Scrapped out a couple pounds worth of guff from the bottom.  Only minor pitting on some parts.  Should clean up well and then I can re-install everything.



And here`s the dash with everything out.  Just trying to decide what to do about firewall insulation.  But I need to get the Vintage Air heat and AC unit installed, then I can start the re-wire.

[thrashingcows]

Here is the 12V wiring system I got from EZ wiring....21 Circuit system, with the large fuses.  I think it`s a great looking system, and should go in relatively easy. Comes with very good instructions, that pertain to all kinds of different makes and models.

[pflaming]

A pictoral of the installation of that kit would be appreciated. I'll put a new wiring harness in my '53 so will be watching. Mine would be a bit different, but still close enough to learn a lot.

[Young Ed]

Steele runner has a new seal for that door in the fresh air box. They also have the larger grommet for the dual heaters. I believe I had to make the smaller dual heater grommet and the seal for the top of the fresh air box to the cowl. Somewhere on here should be a thread of me restoring my dual heaters.