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Posted

surprisingly Dodge was a bit more assessoried than some of the sister Plymouths and electric wipers are not uncommon for the Dodge..these lamp bases are prety common through the mid-late 60's on a variety of cars and should not be that hard to find..Often I see these yet on the help shelf at the big box stores also..as it appears that you will be rewiring these..do not overlook the dimming switch for the dash light and ensure to wire it back into the circuit.

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Posted

Robert,

Glad to see that you are having fun learning about your great new '40. Sounds like you could use a shop manual and a parts manual. They are always available on eBay for reasonable prices and provide a wealth of knowledge about these cars. Sales literature also describes accessories available. Here is a photo of my D14.

Phil

P5240112_r3.jpg[/img]

Posted

Wont your new wiring harness have those dash lamp sockets installed?

Posted
Robert,

Glad to see that you are having fun learning about your great new '40. Sounds like you could use a shop manual and a parts manual. They are always available on eBay for reasonable prices and provide a wealth of knowledge about these cars. Sales literature also describes accessories available. Here is a photo of my D14.

Phil

P5240112_r3.jpg[/img]

Wow, lovely '40! I do have a shop manual for the car, the guy I bought it from kicked it in with it. :-) I really like the look of the '40 Dodge, such a lovely grill!

I'm not sure about the wiring harness, if it comes with the hardware already attached... that's something I'm wondering about. I went to the Long Beach swap yesterday to see a guy I was told that carries wiring harness... I think I went to the Antique and collectibles show, I wasn't aware there's another show just for autos. Anyone here have experience with the Long Beach auto swap or just Pomona?

=R

Posted

Google Rhode Island Wire, their wiring harness comes in original colors pre-formed for each application with the terminals installed. This wire will pass in a 100 point restoration as it is cloth covered as the original but with modern wire. It is very easy to install especially under the dash as you lay it into place you can see where each terminal goes. I wired a 48 Ford with Colombia two speed rear and it took less than 16 hours to remove the old and pull the new harness into place and hook up.

Posted

Robert,

My wiring harness from the dash forward (firewall harness + headlights) came from Rhode Island Wiring. It did not include the small dash light harness but I am sure that you can buy it from them. The wiring to the back on mine I re-did with modern wire. The shop manual has a wiring diagram which shows the wires to the automatic choke and to the electric wipers. The Rhode Island wiring harness came with a much better diagram than is in the shop manual.

Good luck,

Phil

Posted (edited)
Robert,

My wiring harness from the dash forward (firewall harness + headlights) came from Rhode Island Wiring. It did not include the small dash light harness but I am sure that you can buy it from them.

Good luck,

Phil

Ok, Rhode Island sounds good... Checked their prices... not too bad really! They do have a small harness for the dash lights... $35. bucks! So, I think I'll place an order with them! Thanks for that tip!

Edited by Robert Smith
Posted

Talked to Rhode Island Wiring today, it will take them 4-5 weeks to prepare a harness for the car to ship. Yikes, that's a long time... I'm not in a major hurry but, I did have plans to have this all done before the latter part of April.

Any how, I'm going to make a few more phone calls and see what else I may find wire wise. :-)

=R

Posted (edited)

Yeah, I looked at their site, they seem to offer a high quality product and I think they'd be a good route to go, I have to call them and see if they have it in stock or will have to put together an order and how long it would take to receive it.

Also, I put the speedometer back in, I took it for a little spin around the block late last evening, I figured I'd turn on the lights and see how they responded... Well, they stayed one brightness and did not get brighter as I hit the gas... The generator has to be not charging at all... However, the two 6v batteries under the seat seem to keep a good healthy charge... I have no idea what's happening there. If this car was wired correctly and the voltage regulator was hooked up and everything was correct, I'd have a better idea what's happening or not happening... I don't know. On the other hand, I'm pulling the gen out to send to a shop to be rebuilt so, that'll be another step in the right direction. I'm going to have it built to 12v and convert the light bulbs to 12. The brighter lights and quicker starts is very appealing. :-) However, she'll maintain the 6V look. I recall hearing that a car wired for 6v will handle 12v just fine as long as the lights are 12 bulbs and so on.

=R

Edited by Robert Smith
Posted (edited)

Latest:

Today I made a decision, I was tossing around all the pros and cons to converting the car either back to 6v and or to 12v. After reading the 6V VS 12V on the site, I figured that since I'll be ordering new wiring and getting things ironed out correctly, I may as well convert it back to 6v. I dropped the generator off at a rebuild shop in town and will get it refurbished so I can plop it in and continue on the path towards a new start for this car.

Also, I received a license plate lens I ordered from Arizona Parts, they only had a small list of 1940 Dodge parts but, that was one of them I needed! So, it was $15. no biggie and is an original glass piece. I installed it however, it's loose. I figured it had a rubber gasket originally so, does anyone know if STEEL rubber has this gasket?

Thanks!

-=Rob

Edited by Robert Smith
Posted
Latest:

Also, I received a license plate lens I ordered from Arizona Parts, they only had a small list of 1940 Dodge parts but, that was one of them I needed! So, it was $15. no biggie and is an original glass piece. I installed it however, it's loose. I figured it had a rubber gasket originally so, does anyone know if STEEL rubber has this gasket?

Thanks!

-=Rob

I just used ribbon caulking from Eastwood. Worked great.

Phil

Posted
Latest:

Also, I received a license plate lens I ordered from Arizona Parts, they only had a small list of 1940 Dodge parts but, that was one of them I needed! So, it was $15. no biggie and is an original glass piece. I installed it however, it's loose. I figured it had a rubber gasket originally so, does anyone know if STEEL rubber has this gasket?

Thanks!

-=Rob

Check Steele's catalogue on line. https://secure.steelerubber.com/ Also, glad to hear you are going with the 6V. With a new harness in there and clean contacts, you will find the 6V system is more than adequate.

Posted

Rob, re the license plate lens and being loose, you mentioned the lack of a rubber gasket but also if its a similar arrangement to my car which has a 1940 Plymouth light there maybe small spring steel pieces or clips that fitted on the side or top/bottom to hold the glass in......check if there are the remains of any rivets or similar which would indicate the clips were there.......andyd

Posted
Check Steele's catalogue on line. https://secure.steelerubber.com/ Also, glad to hear you are going with the 6V. With a new harness in there and clean contacts, you will find the 6V system is more than adequate.

Yeah, I feel that it should be just fine so long as the wiring is going in correctly and will be done right, should be just fine.

Posted

I also will be taking photos of the engine bay, for all to see and point out what may be missing and what is currently missing. And maybe any suggestions as to who to go to for the missing items.

Stay tuned.

Posted

Rob.....I find that most of the stock engine bays are missing at least 1 carby, sometimes 2........and an extra exhaust pipe appears not to have been fitted to a large number of mopars.

However once these and the extra compression points that a milled stock head or Edgy, Fenton or similar aluminium are added then any extra missing parts should soon be forgotten............or not missed.............lol...............o/k.......back in my hole I go......lol.

BTW when i mentioned I was after pics of the headlight surrounds, tailights etc it was purely because the US parts being different to whats on my OZ built car........

BTW2.........are those moldings I sent the same as what you have on you car?.......andyd

Posted

The belt line trim you sent is very close to what's on the car now. When I get the chance to take the two parts to the chrome shop and have them size them and re-chrome them, I think they'll look perfect!

-=R

Posted

By the way, I placed an order for a harness for the car the other day. It's going to take 4 weeks or so. I also purchased another generator off of eBay, it's rebuilt and the seller rebuilds them, has 50 years of experience doing'em. It's a 40s Autolite which the original one is. When the technician up at Star Auto showed me what mine looked like in side, I was not impressed. The field coil wrappings were completely gone, just bare wires int here, the armature was shot and the bearing was rubbing really bad and caused silver dust all over the end of the unit. So, I was quoted $250. for a rebuild... I recalled there was this guy selling rebuilt gens on eBay for a reasonable price... I talked to him and looked at his feedback and it's all 100% positive.

Waiting on the wiring and the gen... get that all put in and then get the car on the road! I also took care of the registration and title on Monday. Have plates and will receive a title in the mail from Sacramento in a few weeks.

=R

Posted

Rob, hope they are of some use, will that dash piece work also?..........andyd

Posted (edited)
I have a 40 4 door parts car and may have a few bits and pieces you need.

You wouldn't happen to have a pair of front door sills in good shape off of that car...would you?...or a front door vent window upper pivot plate{has two little rivets that hold it in to secure the upper vent window pivot pin...mine is gone and the vent window is wobbley}.

Edited by 40P10touring sedan
Posted

Robert, sweet dodge! I like the dash layout alittle better than my plymouth version...but I don't plan on changing my car for it. ;)

Maybe I missed it along the thread, but what motor do you have?...a 201 right?! I don't readily recall if dodge ran different motors than plymouth.

Having a 40 plymouth I have to question those that say "the dodges have plymouth fenders". The 40 plymouth fenders have a different style scallop{s} around the wheelwell opening than the dodge. The fenders may have the same basic size and over-all contour but that's where I think it would end...sorry, not trying to be nit picky.

Posted
...Also, I put the speedometer back in, I took it for a little spin around the block late last evening, I figured I'd turn on the lights and see how they responded... Well, they stayed one brightness and did not get brighter as I hit the gas... The generator has to be not charging at all... However, the two 6v batteries under the seat seem to keep a good healthy charge... I have no idea what's happening there. If this car was wired correctly and the voltage regulator was hooked up and everything was correct, I'd have a better idea what's happening or not happening... I don't know. On the other hand, I'm pulling the gen out to send to a shop to be rebuilt so, that'll be another step in the right direction. I'm going to have it built to 12v and convert the light bulbs to 12. The brighter lights and quicker starts is very appealing. :-) However, she'll maintain the 6V look. I recall hearing that a car wired for 6v will handle 12v just fine as long as the lights are 12 bulbs and so on.

=R

6v vs 12v, the only reason one would need 12v is for modern things like AC, 12v wiper motor conversion, an added electric radiator cooling fan and a "modern" radio. 6v bulbs are still available and even in LED form if you so desire...some folks say that 12v lights better..I dissagree simply by the fact that my wife's 4 D cell mag lite lights things up very well on only 6v...12v bulbs are just easier to find. Good grounds and connections are always critical to good lighting no matter what voltage one runs.

Robert, does your amp gauge work? When you were driving did it show any charging or discharge? If you didn't notice that, you should take her out for another spin and check...it'll be good therapy anyway!

I just installed new litho glass for my 40 plymouths dash and only then noticed that the speedo and gauges don't light really well..probably just me I'm sure. I'm in the process of painting the inside of the gauge pod silver to better reflect the light since there's only two bulbs in there to light the whole thing.

Posted
Ok, Rhode Island sounds good... Checked their prices... not too bad really! They do have a small harness for the dash lights... $35. bucks! So, I think I'll place an order with them! Thanks for that tip!

I missed this one...."all 3 bulbs huh"...maybe the dodges have more than my plymouth? Two bulbs for the dash pod, one for the ignition key hole and one separate one off the main harness for the high beam indicator.{I just pulled my whole dash the other day so it's fresh in my head}

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