Jump to content

show you the change from fluid drive to 3speed in my 50`Chrysler Straight 8


Recommended Posts

Posted

In this time its the right time to give my beloved 50`Chrysler New Yorker a little bit more performance. You see the change fom fluid drive trans to 3speed. In the last year I have bought a 46`Plymouth 3speed, a flyweel what fit my crank and the trans and a bell housing from a Flat 6, have ship this all from the states to germany.

9506314snl.jpg

9506204uzr.jpg

9506205oad.jpg

only the 2 upper holes fit the Flat 8

9506270rgk.jpg

the other holes must drill new, the lower edges must weld on and than drill 2 new holes

9506296stf.jpg

9506297fzw.jpg

9506298jks.jpg

Posted

the welded bell housing

9507003qsn.jpg

9507004zmd.jpg

the emergency brake and muchly the ujoin to the drive shaft is not working with the 50`Chrysler, but the brake and ujoin from my 49`Chrysler new yorker parts car will fit the 3speed and the drive shaft

also you need a other clutch plate, the smaler Plymouth release bearing and a bushing from the trans output to crank

9506510jnm.jpg

9506514epu.jpg

9506517ane.jpg

9506519wtm.jpg

9506522frx.jpg

Posted

also we must cut the crossbar because the trans go forward to the engine because we have not the torque converter

9507128btj.jpg

9507130pfk.jpg

9507132uyw.jpg

here you see the self made lower bell housing from heavy steel to hold the trans on the engine, like it is on the fluid drive model

also you see 2 steel drum on the place from the trans mounting, it is for a new crossbar wich goes forward to the engine

9507177rwp.jpg

this is the new crossbar

9507178uog.jpg

9507179qok.jpg

after the weekend I can show you the next step

Dirk

Posted
Major difference between this 8 cylinder car and your 6 cylinder Desoto.

I see no difference in any of it, both members are ridding their cars of the parasitic drag a fluidrive brings to the game....the end result is a snappier take off in any gear.:)

Posted (edited)

I have this very set-up TC, in my 1947 Chrysler Coupe.

What was OEM with flathead 6 cylinder engine, FD, and either M5 trans or 3 spd standard, was swpped to dry clutch, and 3 spd standard, with 3.73 rearend.

Now I have a viable option to buy and swap in an R10 trans, or perhaps convert to T5 trans.

I most likely will do neither. I can cruise no problem at 60 mph, a little busy, a swap to a Mopar 8 1/4 diff,with a 3.23 or 3.55, would help matters too.

My off the line response is no doubt better than a fd with either trans. I have driven another 48 Chrysler with FD and M5 trans, it was a real dog off the line compared to my car, and I am running a long block 218, which has about 16 hp less than a 251.

This is what had to be done for the swap,

-move rear clutch housing mount forward

-shorten release fork rod, rest of clutch linkage and trans linkage remained the same, except for some tweaking/adjusting.

-ebrake cable was longer

Thats about it in a nutshell, really what else is there, and this is real simple now noissues with an M5 trans, and no FD issues either, not that there are many with the coupler I suppose.

Interesting I have a fluid drive, the FD clutch housing, an M5 trans, a 3spd for FD, and have considering swapping back to bone stock, including a correct numer 48 Chrysler Royal 251 engine.

But really, my car is a driver at best, and how much better off would I be to go through all that aggravation for the end result.....

post-114-13585366389486_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585366389891_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585366390265_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585366390583_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585366390879_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
Posted
Yes but the switch from the fluid drive, to a manual 3 speed is the same. That's what I'm watching.;)
I see no difference in any of it, both members are ridding their cars of the parasitic drag a fluidrive brings to the game....the end result is a snappier take off in any gear.:)

There is a big difference on an 8 cylinder car verses a 6 cylinder car. On a 6 cylinder long block Desoto or Crashler engine a P-15 bellhousing will bolt up with no additional welding or holes to drill. From the pictures all ready posted in this thread there is additional welding and hole drilling required in order to mate a P-15 bellhousing to an 8 cylinder car. There may also be a difference in the rear crossmember location on an 8 cylinder car. There may be an issue with the length of the transmission input shaft. There may also be an issue with the starter gear to flywheel ring gear engagement. Having mated a P-15 bellhousing to a long block Desoto engine I see a lot of differences when attempting to do the same with an 8 cylinder engine.

Posted (edited)

Rockwood...I agree. Only reason I'm swapping is I needed a new motor since the 251 was toast. And I found a rebuilt 218 and it came hooked to a 3 speed manual...with resurfaced flywheel, new clutch and throw out bearing....all for $450!!

So in it goes. But I do like his solution to moving the trans cross member forward. But will probably move mine forward anyway....Less fab work really.

Thanks for the pics Rockwood!! What did you do about the longer drive shaft? Did you have a new one made, or ???

Edited by thrashingcows
Posted
Rockwood...I agree. Only reason I'm swapping is I needed a new motor since the 251 was toast. And I found a rebuilt 218 and it came hooked to a 3 speed manual...with resurfaced flywheel, new clutch and throw out bearing....all for $450!!

So in it goes. But I do like his solution to moving the trans cross member forward. But will probably move mine forward anyway....Less fab work really.

My engine and trans came from a 51 Canuck Dodge, as well as some of the front end, and front brakes...

My Uncle did this swap, it was many years ago, and He did not care whether it was stock or not, infact if He kept the car, which he only did for a couple of years, it was destined fora 350 SBC and auto trans, magine this ole hulk powered by a Chebby

Posted
There is a big difference on an 8 cylinder car verses a 6 cylinder car. On a 6 cylinder long block Desoto or Crashler engine a P-15 bellhousing will bolt up with no additional welding or holes to drill. From the pictures all ready posted in this thread there is additional welding and hole drilling required in order to mate a P-15 bellhousing to an 8 cylinder car. There may also be a difference in the rear crossmember location on an 8 cylinder car. There may be an issue with the length of the transmission input shaft. There may also be an issue with the starter gear to flywheel ring gear engagement. Having mated a P-15 bellhousing to a long block Desoto engine I see a lot of differences when attempting to do the same with an 8 cylinder engine.

I think I was brushing a little broader stoke than you are Don.....:eek:You are concentrating on the technical aspect of this, I am not. I am more interested in the end result, than process itself.

That having been said please enjoy the process while I eagerly await the results.:):D:D

Posted

Hello all you estimative members of this forum :o:) and thanks for that interest of this post. I am also very intent of the effect from this!!

From a private massage now I know the parts I bought are also from a member of this forum, thanks a lot for this michael!!

Dirk

Posted
I think I was brushing a little broader stoke than you are Don.....:eek:You are concentrating on the technical aspect of this, I am not. I am more interested in the end result, than process itself.

That having been said please enjoy the process while I eagerly await the results.:):D:D

You are correct I am looking at how to get there more so than the end result. Easiest way to get there is to weld the fluid coupling. I believe this can be done in the car. Personally if I had a fluid drive car I would keep it that way.

Posted
You are correct I am looking at how to get there more so than the end result. Easiest way to get there is to weld the fluid coupling. I believe this can be done in the car. Personally if I had a fluid drive car I would keep it that way.

Don we all know you could have had a perfectly good 218 3spd car and certainly didnt keep it that way.

Posted
You are correct I am looking at how to get there more so than the end result. Easiest way to get there is to weld the fluid coupling. I believe this can be done in the car. Personally if I had a fluid drive car I would keep it that way.

to weld the fluid coupling is not the way for this car to have a fast shift from the 2 to 3 gear, it is the model with the fluid drive on wich you shift in 1, in 2 and in reverse like a manual trans, but from 2 to 3 you shift without clutch only you take of the feet from gas pedal from 2-3 seconds, you see the soleonid for this on the pics on the right side from the fluid drive trans

Posted (edited)

I have the regular three speed with fluid drive in my '41 mated to a 230 from a '48 Dodge. I like it because it is odd and also because it allows me to run a 3.27 rear gear without any worry of clutch damage. My Dad had a '48 Chrysler New Yorker coupe with the eight and clunk-a-matic. At the time mine had a 4.11 gear and I could not cruise anywhere near like the Chrysler. Now I could cruise with him, at least till we hit a good long hill. They were about equal on accel then but I think mine is better now since first and second gear are more useful than they were with the 4.11 rear. I do have a '50 Plymouth none fd setup in storage that I was going to try before I changed the rear due to a brake drum issue. Now I like the fd a lot more. To the original poster "nice workmanship.

Edited by oldodge41
saved an additional post
Posted
I have the regular three speed with fluid drive in my '41 mated to a 230 from a '48 Dodge. I like it because it is odd and also because it allows me to run a 3.27 rear gear without any worry of clutch damage. My Dad had a '48 Chrysler New Yorker coupe with the eight and clunk-a-matic. At the time mine had a 4.11 gear and I could not cruise anywhere near like the Chrysler. Now I could cruise with him, at least till we hit a good long hill. They were about equal on accel then but I think mine is better now since first and second gear are more useful than they were with the 4.11 rear. I do have a '50 Plymouth none fd setup in storage that I was going to try before I changed the rear due to a brake drum issue. Now I like the fd a lot more. To the original poster "nice workmanship.

clunk-a-matic :D yes thats it..., but interesting mind, what in fact is the orginal rear gear ratio on my 50`Chrysler and how will it work with the 3speed :confused:, and what will I do if it not works :(??!

Posted
Don we all know you could have had a perfectly good 218 3spd car and certainly didnt keep it that way.

Key word, fluid drive. If my car had a fluid drive I would have found an overdrive transmission and kept the fluid drive.

to weld the fluid coupling is not the way for this car to have a fast shift from the 2 to 3 gear, it is the model with the fluid drive on wich you shift in 1, in 2 and in reverse like a manual trans, but from 2 to 3 you shift without clutch only you take of the feet from gas pedal from 2-3 seconds, you see the soleonid for this on the pics on the right side from the fluid drive trans

It is possible to replace the klunk-o-matic transmission with a standard 3 speed without a bellhousing change. This can be done by welding the fluid drive.

However I do applaud the workmanship you have done to date to eliminate the fluid drive. I am sure you will like your modification once complete.

Posted

It is also possible to change to a standard 3spd and leave the fluid drive alone.

Posted

I should have mentioned that there are some brackets used on a P-15 bellhousing to secure it to the engine as pictured below. These brackets (6-10-5 and 6-9-12) do work on a long block 6 cylinder engine but I dont know if they will work on an 8 cylinder engine. The seller should have included these brackets with the bellhousing.

pipe4.jpg

Clutch_linkage.jpg

Posted
Key word, fluid drive. If my car had a fluid drive I would have found an overdrive transmission and kept the fluid drive.

It is possible to replace the klunk-o-matic transmission with a standard 3 speed without a bellhousing change. This can be done by welding the fluid drive.

However I do applaud the workmanship you have done to date to eliminate the fluid drive. I am sure you will like your modification once complete.

yes I think thats right, but could I have this info mounth earlyer? I will check this on monday

Thanks for this Don

Posted

Don, I also have this brackets on the Flat 8 but the are deeper and fixed on the lower bell housing, this is wy the lower bell haousing must be so massive from steel on my car or on the fluid drive cars, you see it ready with the change of the small bell housing from the Flat 6

9514223iax.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use