Plymouthy Adams Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 Hey Go, you "could" tweek that to 12v gen or alt {your call} and "twin 6v batteries"...hook them up in series to attain 12v but tap off of one for all and any 6v items you wish to keep{lights/gauges/elec wipers/heater/AC fan} and run the 12v to the new stuff{AC clutch/electric steering/modern radio}. "If" you decide theres no need to keep the 6v bulbs {they are harder to find} and you run a drop voltage set up for the gauge voltage protection, blower motor and wipers, you could just run the whole car on 12v at that point. The call is of course yours, but having options is a wonderful thing!Edit- if you go full 12v, don't forget the coil...run a 12v specific coil or a drop resistor for a 6v version....if you choose a GM 1 wire alt don't forget to add an inline diode so it won't backfeed and keep the car running even if you turn off the ignition key...I've heard of radiator cooling fans or any other key off powered things backfeeding and keep the engine running...weird but it has happened. if you go with 12 volt dynamo and run two six V batts...why the dropping resistor for the coil..take the ignition off a single 6 volt source use stock coil without need for the resistor..that is the beauty behind the twin batts..6 and 12 available for what accessories you need to run.. Quote
DCurrent Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 OK, I understand how the 6 volt system can be isolated and used with just one battery, but how can you hook two 6v batteries in parallel for 12v without disrupting the 6v battery to be used for the original equiptment? Darren:confused: Quote
DCurrent Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 OK, I understand how the 6 volt system can be isolated and used with just one battery, but how can you hook two 6v batteries in parallel for 12v without disrupting the 6v battery to be used for the original equiptment?I find all of this interesting because my 48 ( that I haven't picked up yet) has already been switched to 12v. I want to use the original gauges and possibly the radio that are not working now. Currently it has gauges under the dash for water, gas, and volts. If I want to use the gauges I'm aware that I'll have to keep it at 6v one way or another. Darren Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 OK, I understand how the 6 volt system can be isolated and used with just one battery, but how can you hook two 6v batteries in parallel for 12v without disrupting the 6v battery to be used for the original equiptment?I find all of this interesting because my 48 ( that I haven't picked up yet) has already been switched to 12v. I want to use the original gauges and possibly the radio that are not working now. Currently it has gauges under the dash for water, gas, and volts. If I want to use the gauges I'm aware that I'll have to keep it at 6v one way or another. Darren Your ammeter, water temp(which is mechanical BTW),Oil pressure gauge will not be affected by 12 volts. The Fuel Gauge, you can use a Runtz voltage dropper, to deal with that. The radio, volatge dropper, same for heater motor, unless you install a 12 volt motor for it. What else is there, the bulbs, horn can handle 12 volts, and so can a 6 volt starter, with moderate usage. But your gauges, do not require 6 volts, with exception of the 2 wire fuel gaue set-up. That brings up another ????, what sender is now in the gas tank, a modern 12 volt single wire, if so, that will have to be pulled and a 2 wire sender will be required to operate with the OEM gas gauge........ Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 I find all of this interesting because my 48 ( that I haven't picked up yet) has already been switched to 12v. I want to use the original gauges and possibly the radio that are not working now. Currently it has gauges under the dash for water, gas, and volts. If I want to use the gauges I'm aware that I'll have to keep it at 6v one way or another. Darren Temperature gauge is strictly mechanical as in no electricity required. My original gas gauge is currently using 12 volts and works well. I am using the original amp gauge (this is not the same as a volt meter) and it works well on 12 volts. If you use the original radio it requires 6 volts positive ground unless it is modified. I am using a GM single wire alternator. Others have used different alternators. I modified the original generator bracket as pictured to mount this alternator. Quote
DCurrent Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 Your ammeter, water temp(which is mechanical BTW),Oil pressure gauge will not be affected by 12 volts. Hummm.. If they should be able to work with 12v then I just wonder if someone went to different gauges because they didn't work in the first place. The Fuel Gauge, you can use a Runtz voltage dropper, to deal with that. The radio, volatge dropper, same for heater motor, unless you install a 12 volt motor for it. I'll have to look into the heater motor. I noticed it seem to spin very fast. So fast I'm not sure if it was 12v and dry bearing or 6v and wasn't desinged to spin that fast which made an awfull noise. What else is there, the bulbs, horn can handle 12 volts, and so can a 6 volt starter, with moderate usage. Horns are LOUD!!!!!!! which is good. The starter spun fast and was told it wouldn't be hurt by moderate use. But your gauges, do not require 6 volts, with exception of the 2 wire fuel gaue set-up. That brings up another ????, what sender is now in the gas tank, a modern 12 volt single wire, if so, that will have to be pulled and a 2 wire sender will be required to operate with the OEM gas gauge........ I'm not sure what kind of a gauge it has and I have no way of checking it out right now. My car is across the state and I haven't had a chance to pick it up without salt on the road. Can't wait though. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 OK, I understand how the 6 volt system can be isolated and used with just one battery, but how can you hook two 6v batteries in parallel for 12v without disrupting the 6v battery to be used for the original equiptment?Darren:confused: series my good man..put them in series.. Quote
DCurrent Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 I understand now. Looked it up under battery series. Key word: series Darren Quote
40P10touring sedan Posted February 6, 2012 Report Posted February 6, 2012 if you go with 12 volt dynamo and run two six V batts...why the dropping resistor for the coil..take the ignition off a single 6 volt source use stock coil without need for the resistor..that is the beauty behind the twin batts..6 and 12 available for what accessories you need to run.. Full 12v - meaning battery too. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 6, 2012 Report Posted February 6, 2012 Full 12v - meaning battery too. still redundant...that is the simplicity of the twin 6 volt abatteries.. and as for the AC..yeah they had AC compressors back in the day with 6 volt coils for the clutch..try finding one and make it applicable to todays modern stuff...why emcumber a motor with a energy drain when the modern runs on so little HP...there comes a time you shoot yourself in the foot for no good reason..besides, to make it period correct how many folks here are going to cut a hole in the rear compartment for the condensor..and then you have to have an electric fan for than further drain on a energy source....then to have to tear out the headliner to run the ducting etc etc...you will empty a complete clip into your foot before the AC is up and running.. Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 It is possible to have a 6/12 volt system quite easily. I did this years ago after putting an Olds V8 into a Willys. You can use a 12 volt battery with a center tap. Or in my case I used 2 six volt batteries connected in series. Take a full 12 volts for the 12 volt things, and 6 volts off the center tap or off the second battery. So, in a sense you have 2 different systems on one car. In the case of + ground cars the only polarity sensitive part is the radio. And you have to reverse the connections on the ammeter. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 In the case of + ground cars the only polarity sensitive part is the radio. I have learned that that is not true. Quote
Furylee2 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 I have learned that that is not true. As mentioned above, I think it has to do with the vibrator. When I was having the radio repaired for my 41, the electronics guy ordered a solid state vibrator for a 6V positive ground radio. They shipped one for 6V negative ground system, and when he went to put it in, it wouldn’t work. Took him a while to troubleshoot the problem, and when they sent the right one, it worked great. Now maybe if you are still using the old original vibrator, it may not make a difference. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 As mentioned above, I think it has to do with the vibrator. When I was having the radio repaired for my 41, the electronics guy ordered a solid state vibrator for a 6V positive ground radio. They shipped one for 6V negative ground system, and when he went to put it in, it wouldn’t work. Took him a while to troubleshoot the problem, and when they sent the right one, it worked great. Now maybe if you are still using the old original vibrator, it may not make a difference. That is what I discovered on ordering a replacement Vibrator for my radio, they come in old mechanical or electronic, but for either 6 pos or 6 neg grnd. I was told that is the radio requirement for polarity, does that mean to get a 6 volt neg vibrator for the radio, then use a volate reducer for it if running 12 volts, I have no clue..... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 Mechanical vibrators are not polarity sensitive. By vibrating, they are actually alternating polarity to the radio power creating AC power. Electronic vibrators are polarity sensitive. If you want an electronic vibrator, specify the ground polarity the car will be operating with. If you want the OEM type of vibrator, (mechanical), they are all the same. By accident and stupidity, I have proved that Mopar 802's will work with either a positive or negative ground, as long as it isn't using an electronic vibrator. Quote
DCurrent Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 Mechanical vibrators are not polarity sensitive. By vibrating, they are actually alternating polarity to the radio power creating AC power. Electronic vibrators are polarity sensitive. If you want an electronic vibrator, specify the ground polarity the car will be operating with. If you want the OEM type of vibrator, (mechanical), they are all the same. By accident and stupidity, I have proved that Mopar 802's will work with either a positive or negative ground, as long as it isn't using an electronic vibrator. Neil, You seem to be knowledgeble about radios. Do you repair them? Are the mechanical vibrators available? Where is the vibrator located in the radio, and what does a mechanical one look like? If you have the electronic vibrator what damage will happen if it is hooked up incorrectly by reversing the polarity? Darren Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Email this guy.......he's not on the forum now so a pm won't work, he is a good guy and knows his old radios. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/member.php?u=3173 Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Neil, You seem to be knowledgeble about radios. Do you repair them? Are the mechanical vibrators available? Where is the vibrator located in the radio, and what does a mechanical one look like? If you have the electronic vibrator what damage will happen if it is hooked up incorrectly by reversing the polarity? Darren Suggest you google vibrators and see what pops up:rolleyes: Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Mechanical vibrators are original equipment. They are two switches that alternate rapidly switching the polarity of the power to the radio. Its the round metal cylinder in the radio that pulls out like a tube. An electronic vibrator wired backwards will immediately become a lousy paperweight. I know very little about radios, and what I do know I have learned the hard and expensive way. Thats how stupid people learn. Quote
Furylee2 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Suggest you google vibrators and see what pops up:rolleyes: I can always count on you to put a smile on my face Don. Quote
DCurrent Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Suggest you google vibrators and see what pops up:rolleyes: HA HA! Funny Guy:p Darren Quote
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