MarkAubuchon Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 How hard would it be to put a 360 MOPAR motor into my 1950 Pilot house. I have a rebuilt 6, but a friend of mine just offered me a brand new 360 crate motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Dimensionally,it's real close to the same size as the 318 several of us have installed so the problems will be the same. You'll either be notching the firewall or reworking the radiator/mounts. I chose to move mine back and with the 727 trans, needed a hump put in the floor, a crossmember removed and new one built for the rear trans mount. You'll also need to fab something to hold the master cyl in place. Nothing is a bolt-in. Going back through Dan Babbs Hemi install will give you an idea of what it takes to put a V8 in, moving it as far back as possible without cutting the firewall. 360 has the dist. in the back of the engineso cinsider space for servicing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Here's a link to my thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=20635&highlight=dan%27s+hemi I think the 360 is quite a bit smaller than the Hemi, so it should be easier...but you'll still have to figure out some things. I didn't want to cut the firewall, so I moved the radiator forward (but kept the radiator channel in the same place. The pedals and brakes were a PITA for me to figure out...I wound up modifying an under-floor chevy setup. Once I decided how I wanted it done, it just took some time to make up brackets to adapt the chevy setup to the dodge frame. If you take a look through my thread, you'll see my solutions. PM me if you have any questions. I think it would have been a lot faster if I just rebuilt the 6 cylinder and fabbed up a turbo setup for more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJ's Dodge Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) Has any one ever considered using a front clip from a heavy Dodge so you can accommodate a much larger engine? I don't think I have seen it done but it would seem to me that there would be ample room for nearly anything you decided to go with in terms of power plants because of the additional 12" or so in length of the hood and front fenders. The panels match the cab since the same cabs were used between the various models of light, medium and heavy trucks. I really like the proportions better of the heavies. The wheel wells are much larger, but if you have the skill to move a fire wall, why not wed the two fenders to make it more fitting for the look you want based on the tire size you decide to go with. The frame would have to be longer but a modern full size chassis maybe a better route to go when starting a project like this in the first place. I have way too many projects but that would be a fun one to tackle. If it has been done I would love to see some pictures of that. Maybe this should have been a separate thread? KJ Edited January 26, 2012 by KJ's Dodge spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 1950 B2B 408 Stroker (360 engine) http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=14259 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15472 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Fargo Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 well here is mine as you can see I had to move a section of the firewall back 3 inches 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SectionEightLife Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Heya guys. I'm a newbie here, was planning on starting up a new thread when I caught this one. Figured it was close enough for me to take a shot at. I got a '51 dodge that me and the old man picked up form a real nice lady after her father passed on. He kept good care of it, used it EVERY DAY as a for farming till they made him park it in '96. Hadnt moved since. He was smart, parked her between cedars too keep out too many bad insects. For sitting out in the open in NE Kansas it wasnt that bad looking, rust is everywhere but no real deteriorating steel. Bed was a wooden handmade flat that decided to just give up and dddiiiiiee in a fury of ecolli carrying sawdust and tetnus, so shes got the back end of an International Harvester on it now. Anywho after fighting us tooth and nail we got her home and learned that the motor's allll locked up and rusted. So... Engine Swap So the first plan was to drop a simple LS1 motor (I'm a Mopar man, but MY GOSH those LS motors are just monsters with turbos!) in there and fit it with a 24lb hairdryer. Its geting an 8 3/4 rear so good power isnt too absured. Sadly no real good deals on LS motors around me right now. BUT! We found a guy wanting to sell an RV with a 413 in it. What I was wondering is I see tons of your guys' s/b swaps here, pretty nice ones too btw, but is there anyone here who's ever tried a big block swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I'll bet that the 354 Hemi I've shoehorned into mine is close to the same size as the big-block you're talking about. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Nielsen Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Yeah, I put a big block in mine. 400 inch Dodge, though when I mocked it up I used an RB Chrysler block and heads to determine clearances and such. The RBs, like your 413, are just a tad taller and wider than the B series, so if I ever get the urge to drop one in I know stuff will clear. I cut the firewall back similiar to what 51Fargo's pictures show. Used a Volare front suspension so there was no problem with front motor mounts. I didn't weld the suspension in, but built a new front stub frame that Volare unit bolts up to. Modified the crossmember under the cab to build the rear motor mount. 727 transmission. The power brake unit is mounted to firewall on driver side and uses a swinging pedal unit from an 80s something Dodge van. Radiator is in stock location, and the oil filter is remotely mounted. There's no way to reach the stock location for the oil filter on a big block with the sway bar and the transverse torsion bars of the suspension criss-crossing there. Managed to retain the inner fenders also with a little cutting and sheetmetal work to clear the upper A-arms. I had cheap Hedman headers on it for awhile, but had to cut and patch them to clear power steering unit. The whole project amounts to a lot of work, but it was and still is a lot of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmonkey Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) I'll bet that the 354 Hemi I've shoehorned into mine is close to the same size as the big-block you're talking about. They're about the same size as a big block. Although, other than the overall width, the big and small blocks aren't all that different. The height and length are within 1/2", but the big block is about 4" wider. As far as the 360, its EXACTLY the same size as a 273/318/340. Blocks are pretty much identical except for the passenger side engine mount. You should be able to mount it so that you don't have to cut the firewall, just depends on how you do it and what you choose to move, ie, the engine or the radiator. Here's a list of some common engine dimensions, the mopar small block, big block, early and late hemi's are all listed. engine dimensions.pdf Edited January 28, 2012 by moparmonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SectionEightLife Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Sweet fellas! I'm actually kinda thankfull for the info, I was figuring Id have to set the radiator forward AND cut into the firewall to fit both the 413 and a 727 in it. (I might end up doing that anyways because the secret end goal of her is an altered wheelbase ) I'll post some pics of what I have to work with here shortly. one more question, did every one here have to modify the steering in order to fit the motor in it? I really dont want to have to do that, the beautiful turning radius is what makes these trucks super desirable in the first place. If I have to Ill cut into the to firewall and throw in a tranny tunnel to raise the motor mounts if itd let me. Thanks again guys, I'll keep you updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I did a big block and auto install in a 41 shark nosed military Dodge 1/2 ton..about wall to wall engine for sure, no firewall cut..rad mounted forward, is a very doable mod.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I originally shifted my engine 2 inches to the right to get starter clearance. I've since switched out my front suspension to a M II coilover and r& p setup and think I could have left it centered. However, I had replaced my firewall and had the setback notch already made and in so I left it. It also gave me more room for pedals and my big feet. I've got a setback notch of 7 inchesand a tapered trans hump that ends about where the seat tray would be. I removed the old crossmember under the floor completely and built a tubular replacement with a dropout center section for trans removal. I have room in the front of the engine for a standard fan blade and a radiator mounted in the stock location 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Here's a list of some common engine dimensions, the mopar small block, big block, early and late hemi's are all listed. Depending on their application, some of these engines were available with a rear sump. I've got a rear sump on my 318 and think it came out of a truck. What you find may dictate whether you go forward or rearward with your engine but if you're after an altered look, you have to go rearward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I think my engine is pretty much centered. I don't think I could have used a driver side starter because of the steering box, but the adapter plate I used for the TH350 trans had an option to put the starter on the passenger side. Here's a picture where you can barely see the steering box. The hemi had block hugger type manifolds, so I was able to get the exhaust between the block and the frame, then under the pan and over to the passenger side to exit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I offset my engine 1" to the right...strictly for foot well clearence on the drivers side, I also recessed my firewall, and reworked the tunnel..If you go MII i dont think you have a choice..a rear drop pan hits the X member, and you would have to move your engine way forward for a front drop, and a mid drop doesnt fit at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky52Dodge Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 How hard would it be to put a 360 MOPAR motor into my 1950 Pilot house. I have a rebuilt 6, but a friend of mine just offered me a brand new 360 crate motor. I'm in the beginning stages of doing a 360 in my 52 pilothouse. I am interested to know what issues I face in doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky52Dodge Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 well here is mine as you can see I had to move a section of the firewall back 3 inches Did you leave the fender wells off? I don't see the side panels. Clean installation. Any problem getting to the radiator cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky52Dodge Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Here's a link to my thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=20635&highlight=dan%27s+hemi I think the 360 is quite a bit smaller than the Hemi, so it should be easier...but you'll still have to figure out some things. I didn't want to cut the firewall, so I moved the radiator forward (but kept the radiator channel in the same place. The pedals and brakes were a PITA for me to figure out...I wound up modifying an under-floor chevy setup. Once I decided how I wanted it done, it just took some time to make up brackets to adapt the chevy setup to the dodge frame. If you take a look through my thread, you'll see my solutions. PM me if you have any questions. I think it would have been a lot faster if I just rebuilt the 6 cylinder and fabbed up a turbo setup for more power. Bad link. Is it gone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky52Dodge Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) well here is mine as you can see I had to move a section of the firewall back 3 inches Was the Volare front end very difficult? It looks great! Edited February 19, 2016 by Sparky52Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Bad link. Is it gone? Try this: http://p15-d24.com/topic/18782-dans-hemi-swap-project/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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