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Posted

Went to hook up the inlet to carb fitting to discover, the carb inlet threading is stripped out, now I don't think I did this at some point .

I have a nice clean carb, but now I can use it, don't think I could ues some thread sealer or touch of some thread locker/sealer, for temporary thing, could I??????

Posted

Fred, are you talking about the stud? If so does it just need to be cleaned up with a die? Or is it a hole that can be cleaned up with a tap or last resort drill out and install a heli coil?

Posted
Fred, are you talking about the stud? If so does it just need to be cleaned up with a die? Or is it a hole that can be cleaned up with a tap or last resort drill out and install a heli coil?

I am talking about the hole that a brass fitting screws into the carb, where the needle sits.

Not sure I would bother with the helicoil route,maybe just use another carb, still a few around.

Not sure if I could tap hole toa larger size, or not, but the larger fitting, would it accomodate the needle.....

Posted

There is supposed to be a brass fitting the fuel line screws into, between the carb and fuel line.

You could helicoil the hole and install a new fitting. Or JB weld a new fitting in place and it will last the rest of your life if you don't bugger up the threads.

The fitting used to be a standard parts store item from the Weatherhead bins.

Posted

Rusty, what if the JB Weld didn't hold up with all the fuel line vibration and burned up Freds truck because of a gas leak on the exhaust manifold? I know JB Weld and Super Glue is good but .. an insert would be the safe proper way to go or another carb body. Would be sad to see Fred's project end in a burn job!

Posted
He should just throw the old carb away and put on his spare one.

Totally agree. Even combine the two carbs and take the best parts from each. Don't want no stickin' fire truck.:P

Posted

Here are 2 pics of the problem, take note there are some threads left, JB weld, may not be that bad an idea, as once it sets up, and there are some threads, it would lock tight, not sure heat vibration, would be a problem.

Or that might not be a very good idea, if I did use a shadetree fix, it would be for only a temporary thing. The carb and running a few wires is the only thing I need to do before I can try and start this engine.....

post-114-13585364485126_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585364485455_thumb.jpg

Posted

You probably would smell the gas leaking out if the JB failed...:D

Posted
Here are 2 pics of the problem, take note there are some threads left, JB weld, may not be that bad an idea, as once it sets up, and there are some threads, it would lock tight, not sure heat vibration, would be a problem.

Or that might not be a very good idea, if I did use a shadetree fix, it would be for only a temporary thing. The carb and running a few wires is the only thing I need to do before I can try and start this engine.....

Wouldn't it be better to just wait and get another carb? A leak could give new meaning to firing the engine up. :eek:

Posted

about the only thing I would suggest to use in the way to fix this other than getting a good welder is a product that went by the name of Devcon..this was an aluminum mixture, two part..you can actually drill and tap this stuff when set..

this item was used extensively at the shipyard where I worked many moons ago..

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?market=Maintenance%20%26%20Repair&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20%28F%29

Posted
Wouldn't it be better to just wait and get another carb? A leak could give new meaning to firing the engine up. :eek:

To start up a cold engine to see if it runs, is 1 thing, to use this as a permanent fix is another, if it leaks tit would be quite obvious.

I have had the glass bowl filters leak on warm manifolds, it happens.

I am thinking about taking ther carb in to see if some other size fitting can be used...

Posted

If memory serves me correct, the inlet/needle and seat piece actually has to be removed to service the float..making this repair one that must be yet servicable. If you have a good machinist available the could easily cut a brass bushing ddown to duplicate the over all length of the seats threads, tap the carb body to the bush oversided new threads and insert this using a good Loctite thread sealer between the bush and carb body..while that is setting he could stake/pin the bush..bit involved, very workable and save a carb..

Posted
If memory serves me correct, the inlet/needle and seat piece actually has to be removed to service the float..making this repair one that must be yet servicable. If you have a good machinist available the could easily cut a brass bushing ddown to duplicate the over all length of the seats threads, tap the carb body to the bush oversided new threads and insert this using a good Loctite thread sealer between the bush and carb body..while that is setting he could stake/pin the bush..bit involved, very workable and save a carb..

Thanx Tim, will look into it.

I don't recall pulling this fitting, las time I removed the carb top, and re-set float though.

I am going to pull this carb off later today, and see whats what, and take it from there, there is a couple of good machine shops in my area....

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