Vintage Metal Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Hello all. I have been lurking for quite some time, I finally got into a 48 Plymouth Super Deluxe coupe. I have had the car for a few days, driving it all over. All the gauges work well and I noticed the temperature is around 200 degree's. I took it out tonight - (it was a nice 70 degrees) and it sat steady at 185 degrees roughly and when going uphill, the temperature was increasing to the notch on the gauge just before the 212. After I hit a flat area, it dropped slightly down. I do know the 218 has a new 180 degree thermostat. The engine is 30% anti freeze, and the rest water from the hose. I did notice the water pump pulley is seeing some dripping of water at the shaft (on the inside of the pulley). There is a zerk fitting there and Im hoping when I grease it, it will help seal the leak. There might be a very small leak (a drip per second) where the water pump is mated to the block. I plan on re-seating it and putting a new gasket in place to hopefully get it to seal better. I have considered that timing might be an issue or that the car is running a bit lean. I did notice that when I do step on the carb, it 'chokes' out at the beginning. You have to somewhat finesse (or lightly pump the gas pedal) the throttle to get it to take off smooth. The water pump was 'rebuilt' recently by the previous owner.... Your help is greatly appreciated! Edited October 19, 2011 by Vintage Metal Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 you on the right track...check for loose fan belt, do ensure you are not overly advanced in your timing issues, you may have to figure if you have a flow problem in the radiator as in not moving the water fast enough...(thermostat used but restrictedrad passages) if you place a aux fan in front of the unit while sitting in the driveway does it drop back in temp? All are going to increase a bit going up hill, nature of the beast. You can try to lube the water pump and it may stop your leak..these pumps are readily available over the counter at most all parts houses. As for the carb..good chance that the accelerator pump inside has dried out leather cup and by passing instead of shooting extra fuel to overcome the demand for fuel in the sudden request for higher rpm...or if it is shooting...is it in the correct hole for amount available across the throttle plate's range Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 When you grease your water pump use boat trailer wheel bearing grease as it is water compatable. Also give it one pump of the grease gun only. Excessive grease will blow the pump seal. Where did you find your car? Can you post pictures? On a side note I believe your car is a Special Deluxe not a super deluxe as Plymouth never made a super deluxe. Quote
Frank Elder Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Marine grease at wally world works just fine. Quote
martybose Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Don't assume that the temperature gauge is accurate! Take a candy thermometer with you, and some time when the gauge says it is really hot pull over, take the radiator cap off (not a problem in an unpressurized system), and stick the thermometer in the top tank and find out what the water temp really is. In my case, I found that the gauge was reading 20 degrees hotter than the actual temperature, so I stopped worrying about it. Marty Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Posted October 19, 2011 When you grease your water pump use boat trailer wheel bearing grease as it is water compatable. Also give it one pump of the grease gun only. Excessive grease will blow the pump seal. Where did you find your car? Can you post pictures? On a side note I believe your car is a Special Deluxe not a super deluxe as Plymouth never made a super deluxe. Your right, not a Super Deluxe...I have had too many Fords in the Past! Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Posted October 19, 2011 ... take the radiator cap off (not a problem in an unpressurized system), and stick the thermometer in the top tank and find out what the water temp really is. Marty I put a 7lb radiator cap on the radiator, when I got the car, it had a gas cap in its place, no spring, no seal underneath...is the cooling system like earlier cars with no pressure style cap to be used? Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Does anyone have a part number for the correct waterpump that is used on 218. I have been searching the 'net with no luck of finding anything...yet. Here are some photos of the car. Its roughly all original with the suspension lowered on bias plys. The car was blue originally, painted tan 30+ years ago. The car was found in Northern California in a barn...sitting and waiting the whole time. I just ordered disk brake brackets to install. Not really my 'cup of tea' since I consider myself a traditionalist in my builds. I have read of the brake adjustments and its seems to be a doozie! So, Instead of trying to adjust the front brakes, im going the easy route and putting disks in the front. They have been rebuilt so the backing plates, cylinders, parts and drums will get sold off. If anyone needs, let me know! A T-5 conversion will likely be next for better freeway flying! Edited October 19, 2011 by Vintage Metal Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 If your radiator is original it will have a vent at the very top (as pictured below) that is open to the atmosphere. These radiators are not designed to hold any pressure so it does not matter what cap you use. Also these radiators will seek there own level. So if you fill the radiator to the top it will most likely puke some coolant once it gets hot. When it does this do not top off the radiator as it will only puke again as the correct coolant level has now been reached. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Sitting in a bar, eh? Maybe that would explain the scratched places on top of the front fenders - from people sitting their drinks on there over the years. Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Posted October 19, 2011 If your radiator is original it will have a vent at the very top (as pictured below) that is open to the atmosphere. These radiators are not designed to hold any pressure so it does not matter what cap you use. Also these radiators will seek there own level. So if you fill the radiator to the top it will most likely puke some coolant once it gets hot. When it does this do not top off the radiator as it will only puke again as the correct coolant level has now been reached. I will need to check to see if my radiator is like yours Dan.... Quote
littlemo Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Geez "DAN", the use of such a wonderfully descriptive verb such as "PUKE", really leaves one with a lovely visual image when thinking about the proper functioning of the radiator !!! lol, Cass, alias littlemo....( just kidding ya,"Dan" !!! Ha !!) Add. I know, if I ain't got nothing positive to say, don't say nothing at all !!! ) Edited October 19, 2011 by littlemo Quote
deathbound Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 What size wheels & tires are you running, it has a nice stance to it? Nice looking 48 by the way. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 as long as you don't refer to it as a Tudor.. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 Ahh.......nothing like "model/style shorthand":D Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Posted October 20, 2011 Tires are Firestone 6.70's I checked my radiator and it's a standard type, not as pictured. I'm going to check the timing, plugs and carb tomorrow night Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 Tires are Firestone 6.70'sI checked my radiator and it's a standard type, not as pictured. I'm going to check the timing, plugs and carb tomorrow night Can you post a picture of your radiator? Quote
John Reddie Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 Nice Plymouth. If it were mine, I would have the radiator tested for blockage. A plugged up radiator can't provide ample cooling especially when the air temperature is warm. Good luck to you. John R Quote
Guest P15-D24 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 No reason to run a 180 in a non-pressure system. Your giving up 20 degrees of cooling headroom. If you are still having an issue then start checking all the standard cooling problem points, loose fan, clogged radiator, water pump failing, water distribution tube and clogged water jacket. These engines don't run hot. If anything that are a bit cold hearted. If yours is still hot with the proper stat, then something is wrong. Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Posted October 20, 2011 No reason to run a 180 in a non-pressure system. Your giving up 20 degrees of cooling headroom. If you are still having an issue then start checking all the standard cooling problem points, loose fan, clogged radiator, water pump failing, water distribution tube and clogged water jacket. These engines don't run hot. If anything that are a bit cold hearted. If yours is still hot with the proper stat, then something is wrong. The car had a 160 thermostat in place, so ill put it back in. It also had a gas cap type cap on the radiator - missing spring loaded seal on typical radiators. I thought it was odd considering the radiator (having same honeycomb center as the one pictured above) but with different fill opening in the center. The waterpump was 'rebuilt', but leaking a little from the shaft and possibly against the block....ever so slightly. Is there an 'acid' that can be run through a radiator to clean them out? I flushed the block and radiator with 'Bars Radiator flush' (pop top can with white powdery stuff) for 30 min as recommended. I rinsed it till the water was clear again. Quite a bit of 'brown' tint came out of both the block and radiator....I remember the car idled with the Temp at 180 degree's the whole time, after the Thermostat replacement. Quote
Vintage Metal Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Posted October 20, 2011 Anyone ever try this? Recommeded from GM Dealership ~ Oxalic acid: stuff works great for rust, just do a search. Just go down to your local hardward store and buy some wood bleach (basically it's just powdered oxalic acid), run through your system and then neutralize with Baking Soda. or 50/50 mixture of Muriatic acid and then neutralize with Baking Soda. Quote
Vintage Metal Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Posted November 1, 2011 I pulled my waterpump to replace the gasket on the block...and it still leaks I did find out that my water pump is a new rebuilt unit. I tried to pull the distribution tube out....hah...no way... Is there a trick to installing the waterpump 'square' so it wont leak? Quote
TodFitch Posted November 1, 2011 Report Posted November 1, 2011 I pulled my waterpump to replace the gasket on the block...and it still leaks I did find out that my water pump is a new rebuilt unit. I tried to pull the distribution tube out....hah...no way... Is there a trick to installing the waterpump 'square' so it wont leak? It might be leaking through the threads of one of the mounting bolts... But basically if you have both surfaces clean and smooth then a new gasket with a bit of gasket sealer should work just fine. Even if you are not up to pulling your stuck water distribution tube out, you can pop the core plugs and remove all the sediment and gunk you can from the water jacket. And you really ought to revisit the water distribution tube if you possibly can. While they can be obstinate to remove, the cooling system really does require them to be installed and in good shape. Quote
Vintage Metal Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Posted November 2, 2011 Funny thing is, I did clean the block and the waterpump, used a new gasket (fiber board type - blue) with some gasket sealer and it leaks from the top. Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 2, 2011 Report Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) Funny thing is, I did clean the block and the waterpump, used a new gasket (fiber board type - blue) with some gasket sealer and it leaks from the top. Did you replace all 3 water pump gaskets? One goes between the backing plate and the pump, another between the pump and the engine block, and a third between the cabin heater hose gooseneck and the top of the pump. Edited November 2, 2011 by Don Coatney Quote
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