New to the Forum, need help with starting out

[austinsailor]

I also learned to weld in a community college. I always recommend it to anyone who says they'd like to know how. I also took a course where you just make projects - fabrication, I think they called it. Several times. Most of the guys made little keep busy things, I made trailers, tanks, big aluminum projects. They paid for all but the raw metal. (gas, rod, electric, tips, etc) They lost money on me!

I do have 2 '40 dodges like yours, one I drive and one a parts car. I have some parts left, email if you need something and I'll see if it's still there.

[1940_dodge]

I also learned to weld in a community college. I always recommend it to anyone who says they'd like to know how. I also took a course where you just make projects - fabrication, I think they called it. Several times. Most of the guys made little keep busy things, I made trailers, tanks, big aluminum projects. They paid for all but the raw metal. (gas, rod, electric, tips, etc) They lost money on me!

I do have 2 '40 dodges like yours, one I drive and one a parts car. I have some parts left, email if you need something and I'll see if it's still there.

Thanks a lot, I'll definitely keep you updated as I start to progress on this. Right now I've only noticed that the glove box is completely missing. The door is there but it just opens up to nothing. I also have a service manual coming in from a library a couple cities away. If you need any pages from that I plan on scanning the whole thing. I'll leave the pages indexable as well so you can search based on words.

**edit

Actually I DO need a rim and a hubcap. You don't have any on the spare car do you?

Edited November 15, 2011 by 1940_dodge

[1940_dodge]

Good that you are thinking of safety while spending time on your project.

I keep plenty of eye wear, gloves, jack stands, extinguishers, band aids, telephone, etc. handy.

I stored my Plymouth, and Dodge using 4 auto jack stands, under the frame. I placed several cookie sheets with cat litter, on a large plastic sheet, under the car to soak up moisture, and any oil/grease drips. With the wheels off the car, I could work on brakes, etc. easy when ever I had the time. My brake drums had high spots, probably from sitting too long,so had them shaved.

I always use jack stands when ever I jack a car up, even for a short time. If a jack seal pops, the car come down in an instant.

That cat litter is a really, really good idea. Thanks for that, I really wish I could get it inside for this winter but right now I don't think I'll be able to. The best I can do is seal off the doors and windows and try that cat litter under the bottom. Thanks a lot. I also use jack stands, I was able to find a set of 4 for 10 bucks at a garage sale. Also picked up an engine stand as well for 30. Just need a hoist now.

Edited November 15, 2011 by 1940_dodge

[1940_dodge]

Had a chance to swing by the house where the car is staying and took a couple parts back with me to try to clean up. One of which is the 3 hubcaps I have with the car. I wanted to clean off the rust that was inside them using a wirebrush and use a dremel with a polishing brush attached to clean/buff the chrome. You can see what happened from here.

The original chrome on them is almost 85% underneath all that calcification or grime or whatever you want to call it. I'll be working on these some more this next weekend and I'll update it with pictures of the results.

[Andydodge]

My 1940 Dodge hubcaps appear to be the same as those pictured.......steel hubcap with a BRASS stamping pressed over the top......try a liquid type abrasive cleaner first........andyd

[Plymouthy Adams]

I polish most all my chromed surfaces that have corrosion/oxidation with 0000 steel wool..go from there..sad part is the Dodge hubcaps of this era seem to take quite a hit as the plating is very thin..most will still shine and look good from a few feet but close up will look pretty pocked up..

[1940_dodge]

Alright, just graduated with a BS in elec and comp. engineering tech and have some free time to start working on the car again. Here are some pictures of the hubcap I was restoring and you can see that underneath the rust and corrosion the chrome is still decent. Not as good as I had hoped but still good nonetheless.

One thing that excited me was on the back of the hubcap the rust was pretty bad in some spots but after sanding it down I found out that the metal underneath was still pristine you just had to grind down enough to get to it. You can see here:

[Robert Horne]

Your hub caps will be fine with a little more work. I used a small artist

paint brush with a small bottle of paint to paint the letters...

[1940_dodge]

Was able to head up to the valley where my car is being stored right now. Didn't have time to do anything major so I decided just to spin the radiator fan and get it on video this time. You can see that air is flowing through the carb when I spin the fan.

This should mean that there is compression in the cylinders right?

[greg g]

That only showa that one piston is moving air. The only to ascertain compression is throughte use of a compression gauge turnig the engine over with the starter. When these engines sit, it is quite common for the valves that are being held open by the cam to stick open. open valves will not build compression. Now you may be lucky and have them free up with a few rotations of the starter, some will free up if and when you get the engine runnign and it builds some heat. And other have found it necessary to remove the cylinder head and physically working the valves untill they free up.

But a compression test will tell you the story. WARNING note some compression gauges sold today have long threads where they screw into the spark plug hole. If you screw the gause in too far it can cantact the valve and bend then. Make sure you mark the threads equal to or slightly les than the reach of the standard spark plug and do not screw the gauge in further than that mark.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/ss/compress_test_7.htm

[1940_dodge]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll make sure to check it when I do that.

[pflaming]

Go to thrift stores and buy a whole bunch of old fishing tackles. Cut the tops off and you have a great way of storing little things you do not want to lose. I now do that and have a box for each section: cab / engine / brakes / etc. I cut the tops off because the box takes less space when open, thats your choice. I had too much 'fun' dismantling at first, big mistake.

[1940_dodge]

That only showa that one piston is moving air. The only to ascertain compression is throughte use of a compression gauge turnig the engine over with the starter. When these engines sit, it is quite common for the valves that are being held open by the cam to stick open. open valves will not build compression. Now you may be lucky and have them free up with a few rotations of the starter, some will free up if and when you get the engine runnign and it builds some heat. And other have found it necessary to remove the cylinder head and physically working the valves untill they free up.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/ss/compress_test_7.htm

I was just thinking about this, but would I run the risk of snapping the valves completely if I just tried to crank it with them being frozen? What would be a safe way to do this?

[greg g]

no they will stick at the high point of the cam lobe, the cam will just rotate pushing the lifter but the lifter will not be in contact with the valve except at it highest point where the valve is stuck. You may want to pull the plugs and put some (a tablespoon or so) of light oil, or marvell mystery oil or auto trans fluid into each cylinder and allow it to set a while, but if you can rotate the engien with the fan, that indicates the engine is free so it should spin on the starter.

You may want to try to rotate the engine though a couple revolutions with the fan. Pull the plugs and crank it around a couple times to assure yourself there is no binding. Then crank it with out the plugs on the starter. Then do the compression test.

If stock, the system is 6 volt POSITIVE ground.

[Don Coatney]

[1940_dodge]

Had some time to start working with some of the severe rust spots and figured I'd add some pictures.

Doesn't look too bad considering, also I'm glad that the rust spots look like they're all on flat surfaces without any complicated bends to try to recreate when I fabricate my own patches.

[1940_dodge]

Alright, I have about 2 1/2 weeks left before I have to head to Mississippi to get some training done for 3 1/2 months and I was wondering. What should I get done right now to prep it for sitting while I'm gone and not have it deteriorate anymore?

[Harold M]

This was mentioned already but is very important I have been six years and am almost done. Save every thing no matter how bad it looks,you will dig it out ,patch it or polish it or use it for a pattern

[1940_dodge]

Just an update, primered the side to be hit by the sun and freed up a locked brake drum.

[toddbracik]

Wow, looks great man! Keep going!