Juday1951 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 Well, as the title reads, it's unfortunately come to light. If I take short trips in the truck, I don't have any issues. However, if I take the truck on a trip longer than, oh let's say 30 miles, that's where the troubles begin. I noticed this after I visited my local antique tractor show at the fairgrounds. As I drive the truck on down the road, I can see the temperature gauge reading normal (assuming it works), but I begin to smell the "burning oil" stench. On shorter trips, I can see white smoke coming out of the oil filler tub/cap. I thought nothing about it and I assumed it was normal. Well, as I took my long trip, I begin to smell that stench again. As I keep driving, it becomes more and more apparent. So, as I limp Black Betty home (I named my truck ) the smoke fills the entire cab. The temperature gauge still reads around 200° (again, assuming it works). I take off from traffic lights and it looks as though the truck is on fire because it is smoking so bad. Thankfully, it wasn't (I checked). I get home, open both sides of the hood and smoke it just pouring out with that AWFUL stench of burnt oil. I checked the oil level, it's still full. I immediately throw some fans on the engine to help cool things down a bit. While I'm off cursing and shaking my head in the garage, I hear this loud "POOF" sound. As I turn around, I see what looks like an old locomotive releasing pressure from the side tanks. White smoke just barrels out of the passenger side of the motor. I'm looking around, but I can't see where in the world it actually came from? Well as the weeks have gone by, I have just parked Black Betty in the garage for now. Out of curiosity, I kneel down to look under the truck and notice that the inside of the front passenger wheel is COVERED in oil. I've looked around the engine, checked the oil pan and anything else I can and I don't see ANYTHING that is leaking oil?! So, the big question is WHAT IS GOING ON HERE?! I'm almost to the point of pulling the engine and doing a full rebuild (though I really don't want to spend the money, or time doing that right now). Please help me out here!! Thanks fellas! Kevin Quote
MBF Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 Check the gaskets around your fuel pump, and side covers. Actually you may want to pull the side covers to see what it looks like in there and how much gunk you've got. You may also want to check the road draft tube to make sure it isn't plugged. Mike Quote
tenn.jerry Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 are you sure its oil and not brakefluid on the wheel Quote
Reg Evans Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 Pull all the spark plugs and check the compression. That will give you a good idea of the engines health. Quote
Juday1951 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Posted October 11, 2011 are you sure its oil and not brakefluid on the wheel Well, it is the same wheel that the rubber brake line popped off of the drum. Would brake fluid turn to a dark black color with a very sticky consistency? Quote
Juday1951 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Posted October 11, 2011 Pull all the spark plugs and check the compression. That will give you a good idea of the engines health. That's the first plan I had in mind. Now, I just need to find a buddy with a compression tester... Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 Pull the dipstick and take a whiff. The oil could be contaminated with gas due to a leaky fuel pump or running pig rich. I think that was what MBFowler was driving at. Oil burning, yet the crankcase remains full (getting filled from somewhere) Excess smoke Woof! explosion Points to oil dilution by a gas leak. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Posted October 12, 2011 I had a similar problem on my 52, i took it for a decent drive around town and when i got back home i opened the hood just to check things out. This is when i saw the white smoke coming out of the oil fill tube/cap, i knew that it wasn't a good sign. A month went by and i kind of forgot about the incident but now i've noticed my fuel pump is leaking pretty badly. Im going to order a new one and install and see if it fixes the problem. Quote
JBNeal Posted October 12, 2011 Report Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) call Terrill Machine 254-893-2610 (or equivalent vendor) with the model # from the fuel pump & they'll send ya a fresh rebuild kit for a fraction of the cost of a new pump...make sure the pivot pin is staked in place or more troubles will be a-comin' Edited March 3, 2014 by JBNeal Quote
John-T-53 Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 An internally leaking fuel pump will also cause a black sooty tail pipe. Your driveway will have soot marks on it too. Quote
Juday1951 Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Posted October 13, 2011 Ok, this might be a dumb question, but how does fuel enter the oil pan? The only way that I think this could happen would be a cracked/broken piston? Please, edumacate me. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 Ok, this might be a dumb question, but how does fuel enter the oil pan? The only way that I think this could happen would be a cracked/broken piston? Please, edumacate me. If the rubber diaphram in the fuel pump leaks it can pump raw gasolene directly into the crankcase. Quote
TodFitch Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 Ok, this might be a dumb question, but how does fuel enter the oil pan? The only way that I think this could happen would be a cracked/broken piston? Please, edumacate me. If the rubber diaphram in the fuel pump leaks it can pump raw gasolene directly into the crankcase. That would be the source if you have a lot of gas getting in the oil pan. But you'll always be getting a little gas into the oil on each cold start as gas condenses on the cylinder walls and gets by the rings. You will also get a little water into the oil pan that way too. Which is the reason you should run the engine until the oil is hot so that the gas and water are evaporated out before they cause sludge and acids. Quote
Juday1951 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Posted October 14, 2011 Well, I did the cylinder compression tests last night. The results are as follows: Cylinder 1 - 115 psi Cylinder 2 - 110 psi Cylinder 3 - 105 psi Cylinder 4 - 95 psi Cylinder 5 - 100 psi Cylinder 6 - 100 psi Compression was built and held for one minute, or greater. The results don't look too goo, huh?.... Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted October 14, 2011 Report Posted October 14, 2011 Those compression readings are fine . Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 14, 2011 Report Posted October 14, 2011 Compression was built and held for one minute, or greater. The results don't look too goo, huh?.... The results look good. But how do you know they held for one minute or longer? The gage holds pressure, The cylinders do not. Did you do a leak down test? Quote
Juday1951 Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Posted October 16, 2011 Good question. I must admit, I just brought the cylinders up to pressure and sat there and watched the gauge for a minute. I might have to try out the other method just to be sure. Thanks for that picture, too! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.