raidmagic Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 So here is my build thread for my truck. I bought this truck a few months ago and haven't had the chance to do much with it as I've been finishing up my T-bucket and my extra shop for more space. Anyway onto the truck. I found it on CL and it was cheap enough for me to buy it. I have always wanted an old truck I just like the looks of them and I have never seen a Pilot house when I saw this truck. It really caught my eye, my favorite feature is the gull wing style hood. Really cool. Here is the truck the day I brought it home. I got a bunch of extra parts when I bought it so I stripped the extra frame I got and plan on building that up and swapping my cab over to it. Yesterday I got the truck into the shop and on the lift. I haven't lifted it yet to look underneath as I've seen enough from the top to know the floor is wasted. Anyone know a good place to buy floor pans? I stripped out the seat tonight and cleaned up the floor. Found a few cool papers from 1975. They are pretty tore up from rats over the years but they are still readable. I took a picture of one of the sale ads but it didn't come out I'll try that again tomorrow. Anyone know what this vent under the seat is for? So this is as far as I've made it. I will be dropping the frame off at the sandblasters next week and start putting the suspension under it. It will get the front suspension from an 86 Corvette and the rear end of a 2000 WS6. I am still on the fence on putting my spare LS1 in it or doing something a little more old school with a carbed V-8. Anyway it will be a marathon build so I'll update as I go but it won't be quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 One of those optional, air cushioned seats for the ultimate in driving comfort. Floor pans are not reproduced by anyone....yet so you're on your own, either fabbing from scratch or harvesting from another cab. Problem with that is you're more than likely cutting parts from a better cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Very nice! LS1 for sure; I'm doing a carbureted 5.3 LS motor in my 48 Plymouth. Great engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Very nice! LS1 for sure; I'm doing a carbureted 5.3 LS motor in my 48 Plymouth. Great engines. Yeah, I swapped an LS1 into my 87 Vette and it's amazing. They are great engines. Thanks for the info Dave, I'll be making my own I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Yup, that's the Air-O-Ride seat. The valve is supposed to restrict the air going in and out of the seat springs to change the firmness of the seat. I'm a little bumbed that it's not keeping it's original power train, but I'll get over it. It's good to know that another old Dodge truck is surviving. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Those triple bumper guards are real rare! If for some reason (seems like you are going the custom route) you don't want to use them, I'd be interested. You found the right forum for the right truck. Even though mine's totally stock (except for my wheels) there are a bunch of guys on p15-d24 that have a wealth of knowledge and skill-sets to do the more complicated stuff. I've gotten all kinds of help. Best of Luck, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds54dodge Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Your off to a good start, please keep the progress photos coming,Bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I know some of you are bummed about the truck not going back stock and I understand completely. I have gone back and forth about this decision since I bought the truck. A stocker with that cool flat 6 really has an appeal to me but in the end I've opted for the drivability and usefullness of a modern drivetrain. I'd like to use this truck on a regular basis and that means living with todays traffic, pulling my car trailer, pulling a scrap trailer and just basically having comfort and power to live with it on a daily basis. I will keep you guys updated for sure. Hank I have no plans on reusing those triple bumper guards but they are rusted up. Pm me if you are interested I'm sure we can work something out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallblockjunkie Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 the 86 corvette susp will fit in there like a glove. with a littlt work the ls1 will go in nice also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Will PM you shortly. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 A friend of mine put a LS1 in a Hudson his grampa had. The thing get 37 miles to the gallon. And it runs fast to. Good combo. lug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Hank, I like your wheel selection and color. With a wide tread like that, how does it drive? What rear end do you have. To raidmajic: Like others have said before, "It's your truck". That is why I like this forum, a great collection of open, fair minded truck enthusiasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 The wheels were found a long time ago at a swap meet. At the time money was scarce. I think I paid $5 each. The hole pattern was right and it offered me the ability to use wider and taller tires. They are almost first generation Hot-Rod steel wheels from back in the late 70's and came typically white with a thin blue and red pinstripe. As you well know during a restoration saving a few dollars here and there sure helps and so the wheels went to the powdercoater along with everything else that was black and sheetmetal. Done in bulk, they cost $40 each. One of the guys at the body shop where my truck was painted suggested doing a single green pinstripe on the black wheel and someday I might take him up on it. I purchased Michelin AT2 tires P235/75/R15 on sale at Sears for $140 each, not bad considering they will probably be the last set of tires I'll ever buy for the truck as I don't think I'll be driving 50,000 mile anytime soon (at least in my lifetime) Nice to hear you are still at it on your truck, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Those were commonly referred to as wagon wheels. They still make them for trailers. Supposely the trailer ones aren't supposed to be used on cars because they aren't designed for the flexing of turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I've always known them as "8 Spokes". And I would think that trailer wheels also get a lot of side load flex. Have you ever watched a tandem or tri-axle trailer go around a corner? Those tires and wheels get a LOT of side load flex. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Merle thats why I said supposedly Dad was going to run a set on his 55 IHC and the store told him they were trailer only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Maxwell Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 HanksB3B: Although I am a long way from painting my '51 B3C, I know that I want to paint it green using PPG Acrylic Urethane. I would appreciate the paint code you used on your truck (it looks great) and the manufacturer. Even if it is not PPG, perhaps they can cross it into their system. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 One of the guys at the body shop where my truck was painted suggested doing a single green pinstripe on the black wheel and someday I might take him up on it. That's a great idea, it might pull off a red or yellow stripe nicely too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 HanksB3B:Although I am a long way from painting my '51 B3C, I know that I want to paint it green using PPG Acrylic Urethane. I would appreciate the paint code you used on your truck (it looks great) and the manufacturer. Even if it is not PPG, perhaps they can cross it into their system. Thanks. But if you PM me with your address I can send you a paint card sample and I'll try to look up the type of paint it is (Think it's PPG and will let you know what grade it is as well) Hank P.S. Thanks for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Maxwell Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 But if you PM me with your address I can send you a paint card sample and I'll try to look up the type of paint it is (Think it's PPG and will let you know what grade it is as well)Hank P.S. Thanks for the compliment. PM sent. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I got some time to work on the truck today. I had to cut most everybolt off only a few were able to be removed. What a mess. Anyway I got the front end off it and now I'm going to start removal of the cab. Any tips you want to offer for cab removal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Strip the doors, steering wheel and seat out of it and if you're going to be replacing any of the glass moldings, I'd pull the glass too. The lighter you make it the easier it is to lift and manouver (sp?) and less likely to damage hard to find parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Thanks for the tips Dave. After having some dinner and getting more energy I got back out there and unbolted the cab, removed the running boards, pulling the floorboards and unbolted the steering column. I'll be ready to remove the cab this weekend hopefully. I'm also hoping to get the other frame to the sandblaster this week. Just been crazy busy at work so I haven't had the time to bring it over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds truck Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 if you look up one of my past posts, I have a thread on how to remove a cab with a cherry picker. Easy to make and it works well. I have had mine off and on a dozen times so far with it and you can do it by yourself. Hope that it helps you out. Bud (buds truck) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Alright, got the cab off today. I used a cherry picker and out thought myself. I used the cab mounting bolts to bolt chains and then lifted with the cherry picker. The issue came in with not being balanced and it tilted heavly to the pass. side. My wife gave me a hand though and we handled it with no problems. And here is where it will sit unitll I get the other frame back and start mock up of everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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