dbcooper292 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I looked over the old posts on this but I'm maybe missing the basics. My brakes are dragging and the truck doesn't seem to have the sort of adjusters I'jm used to on more 'modern' drums, I did find what seemed to be cam bolts and maybe they make a difference but not enough. So I want to remove the drums but can't because....the brakes are dragging. Or is that the reason? I'm not too familiar with the whole 'brake drum and hub are all one thing' type of system on these trucks, can someone give me the basic idea of removing these things, especially if the shoes seem to be pressing them? (lines are totally disconnected) Thanks, db Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Front or rear? If rear, the first part of this repair procedure shows drum removal. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbcooper292 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 It's a 49 B 1 D and i'm looking at the fronts now, though I'll be getting into the rears as well, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Go to the main page of the host page of this forum, then go to the work in progress area and review the section of brakes, answers to your basic questions are there front and rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Mine sat for 17 years, had to literally pry the drum/hub off the shoes. Only "adjuster" on my front drums is the wheel cylinder. Fixed lower pivots, shoe held on via horseshoe clip. Prying stuck drums off is a pain. Takes two prybars and even with the heavy backing plate compared to a modern drum, they can warp. Once the drum starts to move, get the prybars going around the inner surface as fast as you can, keep pushing the bars against the backing plate. When it decides to pop loose, guard your nuts. Outer bearing will fall out into your lap. Wear a dust mask, the prybars will chip the friction linings. Mine are asbestos type from the 60s. Doesn't taste very good (I have a beard so masks/respirators don't seal well). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Go to the main page of the host page of this forum, then go to the work in progress area and review the section of brakes, answers to your basic questions are there front and rear. Yes, and it's a good write-up, but on the trucks the front and rear brake designs are reversed from what's on the cars. The rear has the twin cyinders and the front has a single dual piston cylinder. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bach4660 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 because you are the one ton, it is the single cylinder front and rear, with adjusters on the bottom, note position of the arrow, and adjusters on the top. It may be stuck but there is quite a bit of adjustment with the drums on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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