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Posted

Does anyone know for certain whether the front timing chain /crank oil seal is the same from say 1940 to 1959 and between the 23 and 25" engines. I need to replace the front seal in my 1941 Plymouth P11 engine, its a 201 and it will need a speedy sleave. Did mopar only use the one size here?..........thanks, andyd

Posted

See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group9#9-23-21

Your P11 201 motor uses service package 891448. From what I can tell that was superceded by the same service package used for the P15 era cars. In the US that should be available from NAPA or anyplace that carries Best Gaskets:

NAPA number NOS 21814

Best Gasket number GS12034X

I don't know if that is the same seal and package needed for the 25" block or not.

Posted (edited)

For Plymouth from timing cover set to number 137665 1933-47 Mc Cord ES1137

Timing cover and seal set ES1137-1

I attached a copy of the Page with this information for you

I have the Mc Cord Gasket catalogs on Cd that cover 1909-1937 and 1937-60 The cost is $15 for both of these catalogs on CD which is approx over 200 pages of data just like what you see on the attachment.

A victor catalog like this went for over $70 the other day on ebay

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Mc Cord Gaskets 1937 - 60 p 51.PDF

Edited by desoto1939
Posted

Thanks, Tod & rich, the NAPA numbers aren't any good outside of the US, but thanks.........I haven't pulled the thing down yet.......think I'll bit the bullet this weekend.........andyd

Posted

Andy,

Look at the Mc Cord Gasket page I posted. Mc Cord is vry well known for its gaskets and a parts store should be able to cross reference against these numbers. Mc Cord, Victor and Fitzgerald were all good quality makers of gaskets.

Rich Hartung

Posted
Andy,

Look at the Mc Cord Gasket page I posted. Mc Cord is vry well known for its gaskets and a parts store should be able to cross reference against these numbers. Mc Cord, Victor and Fitzgerald were all good quality makers of gaskets.

Rich Hartung

Thanks for posting that PDF, I'll be updating my database to show those cross references between Chrysler numbers and McCord numbers shortly.

Posted
Thanks for posting that PDF, I'll be updating my database to show those cross references between Chrysler numbers and McCord numbers shortly.

Todd

I have copied both of the McCord Catalogs that covers 1909-1937 and 1937 - 1960 onto CD. The cost is $15. The catalog containded over 200 pages of information.

These catalogs are very hard to find. I recently saw that a victor catalog sold for over $75 so what I am offering is very cheap and the paper will not get lost.

What i posted is just one sample page of information. My price includes shipping.

Rich Hartung

Posted

Rich,Tom........ thanks for the info/offer but McCord & some of the other listings are not used outside the US/Canada......but are good as far as the listings go to show whats what. Problem is 1941 Plymouths are very uncommon in Oz, from what I have gleened over the past 40 yrs is that only a few hundred would have been made/sold here as 1941 was a full war year, also my car is one of only a few hundred made in Sth Africa. I have a full gasket set to suit the 230 engine that will go in the car eventually but I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to get the correct parts over here, just was being lazy & wondering if anyone knew whether the 25" engine definately used the same setup as the early engine as parts for 25" engines are easier to find here althought they are the ex UK "KEW" versions...........lol.........no hurry as it passed its rego check anyway............lol.........but will have to be done to keep the mechanic happy..........lol

Posted

Louie, yep I know.....$$$$$$$........lol........andyd

  • 8 years later...
Posted

hi.

Just on the subjet of timing cover oil seal,   on a 1951 Dodge,  do you have to remove the front engine mount to replaced the seal and gasket???

Posted

with wrenches.....?  As the end subject is the timing chain cover one would want to displace the weight of the engine to the saddle of the floor jack with correct size chunk of wood and or a cradle to catch the pan side rails.   The engine mount is strapped at the bottom and nuts removed from the hollow space beneath the cross member...the upper you hopefully can remove just the upper nuts at the same time and slip the mount away at the bottom and allow the upper studs to clear their retainer. 

For changing the seal, remember to insert the seal correctly, apply some lube to the lip....place cover on engine loosely then align the cover centric to the crank by inserting your damper/hub before tightening the retainer bolts for the cover....failure to centric align will lead to early failure of the seal

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

I thought I'd have given follow up info for this thread but it was 8yrs ago and I'm trying to remember what I had for breakfast 8 minutes ago.........lol...........I replaced the seal without any real problem tho can't remember who I got it from or whether I used the seal in the Best Gasket set I had which was purchased specifically for the 230 I was building for the car...........the only issue I had was the crank hub and flange that the pulley bolted onto was rivetted together and the rivets were loose, after searching for another I tack welded the hub together with welds equidistant around the hub and it was fine..........I had no problems after that and the crank seal worked well with a speedie sleeve installed as well...........car was sold in 2013........sometimes you do stupid things.......lol............andyd  

  • Haha 1

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