ggdad1951 Posted April 28, 2011 Report Posted April 28, 2011 dry fit my exhaust tonight while the tranny drained...several questions. 1. should the pipe slip into the exhaust manifold or does it need to be drawn in? Mine is snug at a minumum, I'm afraid it might expand oddly and crack the manifold. 2. how do the pipes lay in reference to the drive shaft or frame? Mine was held in by baling wire so I have NO clue where it belongs. Pictures would be awesome, both from the side and top/bottom. 3. pictures of "original" hangers would be nice as well, parts book just doesn't do justice to make parts off of. 4. I need longer pipes with my long bed, which should I add my 16" to? 5. just use standard muffler clamps to hold the muffler to the pipes? 6. am I crazy (yes, a recycled question)? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 28, 2011 Report Posted April 28, 2011 My head pipe didn't go up into the manifold. It has a flange welded to the end of the pipe and just attaches with a gasket between the flange and the manifold. I used universal hangers on my system. I also don't have an original style system. The head pipe was reused because it was in good condition. Then I measured everything up and spend time in the exhaust pipe isle at Fleet Farm. I found a muffler, adapters, and a tail pipe that would work. My "will fit" tail pipe exits out the right side behind the rear tire like many modern trucks. I believe it originally exited out the back. At the back of the tail pipe I had to fabricate a mount to work with the mount stud that was on the tail pipe. My system is also all clamped together with exhaust clamps. Nothing wrong with them unless you are going to put mirrors under your truck at a show. Merle Quote
maverick Posted April 28, 2011 Report Posted April 28, 2011 my 51 had the exhaust pipe extend about an inch into the manifold, but my 53 had a flat flange on the pipe that was sandwiched between the flange and the manifold. i dont know if the design was changed between the years but i would trust the flat flange more to not leak. Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Here's a hanger you gotta look close Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 (edited) The extension tube would go between tail pipe and muffler. The manifold pipe and muffler, hangers could be used for more models and reduce inventory. Edited April 29, 2011 by Dave72dt Assembly order correction Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 And the exhaust installed. Always heard the properly made exhaust system is welded to the flange with some sticking up to go into the manifold. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 If Ed's muffler is the correct location for the Pilothouse, then the extension would go on the back of the muffler and before the tailpipe and not before the muffler Quote
Scruffy49 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 My 48 218 appears to use a flared end on the head pipe, the collar slips up and bolts to the exhaust manifold outlet. My 56 230 has a tapered tubing extension sticking out past the base of the manifold outlet. Slip pipe over and bolt the flanges together. Needs a welded flange on the headpipe I'd guess. Manifold is cracked so... too bad, the 56 engine has a hot air automatic choke instead of the 48's cable choke. And the big heat exchange flap moves. Not sure what the base plate under the manifold is covering. I think I need a set of headers and twin carb intake... I know the 218 exhaust manifold is going to shatter if I try to drill and whatever it for the 230 choke tube. Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 I can't say its correct for a pilot house but its supposed to be a factory accurate reproduction for a 39-47 truck. Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 I think I need a set of headers and twin carb intake... I know the 218 exhaust manifold is going to shatter if I try to drill and whatever it for the 230 choke tube. Got any pics of where that choke tube hooks up? I think I'll need to do that with my next truck engine. And can I call dibs on the 56 intake if you go duals? Quote
Scruffy49 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Too dark right now, and still haven't found the camera cord... I hate the moving gremlins... Manifold? Are you in need of a john boat anchor? Just kidding, actually tried to pull it this afternoon, the 218 has a good carb, intake and exhaust, correct for the 49 truck (they are factory to the truck). It is going to take a nut splitter, thermite or C4 to pull the 230 parts... Broke a socket on one of the stuck exhaust nuts. And found out the water pump is junk, shaft wiggles. And the fan is bent. :mad:er Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Where is the crack? I'd buy a new water pump anyways. Not worth the risk. Fans are around. You want 4 blade or 5? Quote
Scruffy49 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Still have my 218 4 blade, a brand new pump is only $60. Front port, inner ear is almost completely cracked off. Making one from two is nothing unusual, I also have a Sweptline... Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 The outlet from the broken one can be used to make a dual manifold with a good one. Charlie buys the broken ones for just that purpose. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Posted April 29, 2011 so it looks like the pipes parallel the drive train and the tailend of the pipe angles out. I MIGHT have the bracket Ed shows in his one picture. I'll have to dig thru the pile of rusty metal chunks that never got labeled. Ed, what does the tail end hook to on the last cross member? Can you snag a picture of that? Are there any brackets in front of the muffler? Does it rely on the manifold pipe for support up front? The system I got from Roberts has the little 3/8 or so extension that sticks up into the manifold past the welded flange, it's tight tho and I wonder if it should be? Lord knows I don't want to crack my manifold that came from so far away! Parts book shows some other odd things/plates/brackets as well, anyone have anything that matched that? Also I got both answers for the extension? I hope to get this all remade in SS ($$$) and want to just add the length to the right pipe and not have another junction. Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 so it looks like the pipes parallel the drive train and the tailend of the pipe angles out. I MIGHT have the bracket Ed shows in his one picture. I'll have to dig thru the pile of rusty metal chunks that never got labeled. Ed, what does the tail end hook to on the last cross member? Can you snag a picture of that? I believe all mine has is 3 of those same brackets. One in front of the muffler(I believe this one is broken off on mine) the one towards the front of the bed and a third at the rear. Quote
Scruffy49 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 My basically stone stock chassis has: one midway under the passenger floorboard, roughly 6" from the inner frame flang edge. One on the forward rear spring mount crossmember, again roughly 6" in from the flange edge. And one 2" in front of the rear most crossmember (rear spring rear hanger), 3/4-1" IN from the edge of the flange at about a 20 degree angle. That's stock for a 49, what is left of the original headpipe is still mounted in the truck. I remember the muffler fell out in the shop in 94. It was roughly 1/2 of its own length under the cab. Looked like a basic round tractor muffler. Inside too... Had to go see for myself, you guys made me curious. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 so it looks like the pipes parallel the drive train and the tailend of the pipe angles out. Parts book shows some other odd things/plates/brackets as well, anyone have anything that matched that? Also I got both answers for the extension? . I went back and corrected my first statement. From photos I have of a previous 1 ton project ( Ford, it also needed an extension) and Scruffy's placement comments, Ed's photos, the most logical place is after the muffler. Apologies for any misleading posts. Those other brackets may have been used on bus chassis, panel vans. Finding anything known to be orignal exhaust on a 1 ton will be extremely difficult. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Posted April 29, 2011 during my afternoon off, I made 2 copies of the one hanger that I found in my pile of rusty parts...figured some of the "odd" bends weren't intentional and just made it straight. BTW, yes, all hand bent with a hammer, vice and some round bar stock. Quote
Young Ed Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Where's mine? Looks like great work. Couple bolts with jam nuts and you'll be all set. Quote
Desotodav Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 Good job on the hangers Mark. You just need to make one of these muffler clamps up now. Desotodav Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Posted April 29, 2011 Good job on the hangers Mark. You just need to make one of these muffler clamps up now.Desotodav where does that go? Where's mine? Looks like great work. Couple bolts with jam nuts and you'll be all set. took about 20 minutes to do each one, didja need one? Quote
Desotodav Posted April 29, 2011 Report Posted April 29, 2011 The clamp goes at the front of the muffler. It hangs from a bracket bolted to the chassis. See pictures. Desotodav Quote
ggdad1951 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Posted May 3, 2011 (edited) batting .000 for finding a place to (re)make the exhaust outa SS....oddly lots of places won't touch SS...and the flange on the header pipe has lots of "NO" all over it. So I think for now...coated or plain...someday when I'm rich I can find the SS system of my dreams. Edited May 3, 2011 by ggdad1951 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Posted May 3, 2011 so, since I'm just going with the aluminized pipe I got from Roberts, I still have the question about interference between the header pipe and manifold. I put the caliper on both and it looks to be about .020" on diameter of interference. I don't want to stress the manifold, or crack off the ears trying to draw it up with the bolts. Should it be that tight? Should I get in the manifold with a finger sander/grinder and take some metal out? other? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.