Cylinder head question

[Dozerman51]

Hello gre g and all,

Thanks for posting the pic of your nice looking motor. Yes, that is the exact same head I have right down to the head number. I went out and looked at the head in my WC-12. Should have done that first thing. :(From what I can see, (horn is somewhat in the way), I have a large adapter nut screwed into the 1/2" NPT hole on the head. The smaller Temp. gauge tube nut is then screwed into the large adapter. It now looks like I will be able to screw the temp gauge tube nut directly into the 58 head and It should work. I'm real sorry to have led all you good folks on "A wild goose chase". I will take my Crow medium well. Thanks again for all your input. This is a great forum with great folks on it.

Joe Giraud

[greg g]

Not my engine is off the net. it was without an oil fliter and other stuff in the way the best illustration of a later head I could find. Thought you maybe had an orange in with your apples. That fellow needs some more air fliter surface for a beter runig engine.

Glad to help.

Did you mean crow or Old Crow????

[WatchingWolf]

Thanks for the history lesson Don.

What really gets confussing is when you throw BSPT and BSPP into the mix. (British Standard Pipe Taper and British Standard Pipe Parallel) BSPT is very similar to NPT but is usually 1 or 2 thread count off. I have to work with these fittings on a regular basis. I also deal with hydraulic fittings in SAE, JIC, JIS, ORFS, Metric Straight Thread (why don't they get an acronym?) and DIN, as well as BSPP with an inverted seat. Trying to keep them all straight can be challanging.

Merle

Hey Merle.... are you Parker, Gates or Eaton?

[Dozerman51]

I used to drink "Old Crow", now I switched to the English whisky (Scotch), the cheaper the better. LOL. You all have a nice weekend.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here are some pics of a 1958 Plym head and how I got my 51 Plym temp sender into the head back in 68 when just a kid-no idea what to do so I brazed the bushing into the head core plug and pounded the assembly into the head-still works fine to this day! Today I would just drill and tap it larger-the correct way! Also for reference, pics of the up to 1954 or 55 head bushing and sender bulb and nut.

Bob

[Dodgeb4ya]

This looks like a n x230 engne # so late 50"s, this is what my 56 head looks like.

Are you sure you ar not trying to install the sender into the taped hole forward of the sender that holds a bracket on some engines?

Last year for the flathead-1959 Savoy! Nice unit!

[Dozerman51]

Hi Dodgeb4u,

Nice pic's of the bulb units. As I said, I'm hoping my temp gauge tube nut will screw right into the 58 head. I'm hoping my tube nut is 1/4" npt. looks that way.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the thermal bulb must sit inside an adapter that holds it centered and allows the flare/flange around the bulb to "bottom out"..this adapter is NPT and screws into the head.. the backing nut (threads are also NP but cannot say for certain taper or straight but suspect straight thread) as its purpose is to thread down into the adapter pushing against the bulbs flange on that side as the other side of the flange is pressed against the adapter creating the seal...close look at the adapter will show the inverted cone at the bottom to ensure the bulb flange will make 360 contact..

most kits come with a couple side of adapters for the most popular engines...the bulb must fit inside one of these adapters to form the water tight seal..

[Joe Flanagan]

Recently I installed a cheapie Auto Zone mechanical temp gauge on my engine as a temporary measure until I can fix my original. I used the new gland nut and adaptor that came with the kit. I went through two gauges that didn't work before I discovered that the newer gland nut is designed differently from the original. The original allowed you to tighten the adaptor and bulb snugly without the bulb protruding too far into the head. The new gland nut was constructed in such a way that it allowed the bulb to go so far into the head that it bottomed out and broke, allowing the ether to escape. I went back to my original gland nut and had no more problems.

Just something to keep in mind.

[Merle Coggins]

Hey Merle.... are you Parker, Gates or Eaton?

Neither. I work on construction equipment of various makes, but mostly Volvo's. Every manufacturer seems to use a different fitting style that you have to figure out when adding a circuit or trying to tape into one to check it's function. I do use a lot of Parker stuff as well as Aeroquip which I believe is part of Eaton, and the hoses that we make in-house are Gates.

Merle

[Jim Saraceno]

I have two heads with two different sized holes for the temp sensor. One fits the mechanical sender and the other fits the electric sensor. In order to get the mechanical sensor in the electric sensor hole, I'm sure you'd have to drill and tap it.