ggdad1951 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 ready to paint, plate or whatever the following parts, but want to make sure I have the RIGHT finish on them since I'm TRYING to do the full original resto and don't want to get dinged on "finishes". I've got a window to get some zinc and cadmium done in tandem with a motorcycle restorer and his parts so I'm trying to figure this out in the next week or so, Paint? (color) Clear Zinc? Cadmium? Nickle? Nothing? other? general rules on finish types of the era? clutch/flywheel lower cover crank case breather pipe and clamp crank case "drop" pipe accelerator pedal linkage Transmission/e-brake levers, rods and pins, etc. Distributor cap hinge and spring clips Distributor advance plates Geni tensioning arm water pump pulley crank pulley starter foot pedal horn mounting plates/spacers firewall bracket for speedo/temp gauge/etc. thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Here's a factory photo of an engine. Maybe some of the answers are here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 from the looks of Reg's photo (presumably from one of Bunn's Bibles), the engine/transmission assembly was painted aluminum oxide as a unit, manifolds included, as evidenced by the overspray on the parking brake handle. Oddly enough, the water pump pulley is aluminum oxide, but the fan & mtg.bolts are black. From memory, I reckon the oil fill tube is aluminum, but the cap is black. The generator mtg.bracket is aluminum, but the generator & adjusting bracket are black. The distributor body is black, but the distributor timing/mtg.plates are aluminum. The starter foot pedal, starter pinion arm, accelerator linkage, firewall clamp for the choke & throttle cables + temp.gauge tube, and horn mtg.brackets are aluminum also. But the horn is black, as is the starter and steel fuel pump heat shield. Something I've played with is fabricating an aluminum heat shield for its heat reflectivity; it also won't need painting. I assume the distributor clips are black, since the dist.body & cap are also black. The fuel pump & fuel filter housings were a dull greyish color, and carburetors were coated with yellow or white zinc. I don't recall any of the engine components being of a shiny or glossy nature. Forgot who pointed this out, but might as well replace that freeze plug that is only accessible when the transmission bell housing is removed. Then paint everything before installation back into the truck. Some folks spray paint, but when it comes to cast iron, I use a foam brush to dab the paint into the casting pores. The finish is thicker and less likely to get rusty if the original rust was treated or encapsulated. Also, foam brushing uses less paint, although it does take longer, but ya don't have to worry about inhaling any overspray and getting a case of the rainbow snots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 That all sounds pretty good to me. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 ok....so NO plating on any of the engine/trany parts, just paint...but some on the dist plates and the spring clips (those were obviously plated from what was left of the finish on them). Altho from the picture it looks like the fan is painted gloss black? thanks guys...just want to do the best I can here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fn11950fargo Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I found this somewhere on the forum or on the net. I used it for reference on my 1950 Fargo. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Something I've played with is fabricating an aluminum heat shield for its heat reflectivity; it also won't need painting. FYI, mine is so pitted I'm going to CAD up a new one if you want the flat pattern. Going to aluminum and thicker gauge than steel won't make THAT much of a difference in the flat from mine for steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I recall that list being in one of Bunn's Bibles, but I've had a disagreement with the transmission being a 'natural' color. Both of my '48 & '49 had oil leaks that eventually coated a small part of the original paint on the transmissions. From what I've seen, they were primer red with aluminum oxide top coat. From a manufacturing perspective, engine assemblies would be assembled, tested, then primed or painted for warehousing or shipment. Same goes for the transmission & bell housing assemblies. From the flatheads I've seen over the years, they've been aluminum, Massey red, Clark yellow, Miller blue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 from the picture below and the one from "50farmtruck"'s intro thread....I see a secondary fuel filter right before the carb, also the Shop manual and parts book seem to have pictures in them with this secondary fuel filter. Since my truck had been converted to a electric pump that filter is long gone. Would that by chance the Robert's PN T452? I assume that was the original set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 The unit at the carb is an actual fuel filter; and the one built into the fuel pump is just a sediment bowl (but it has a screen in it). I'm not sure about what Roberts sells but I plan to get an in-line glass bowl fuel filter like shown in the pic below. Danchuk mfg in Santa Ana, Ca (www.danchuk.com) has repro AC filters for chevys, but they're pretty much universal and could be plumbed to fit any fuel line. I've heard one of these can be ordered at Napa too, but haven't tried that route yet. ggdad, if you're doing a CAD dwg of that heat shiels, could I get a copy of the pattern? I need to make me one of those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I'm not sure whether this photo helps you guys out, but my 51 Oz (Canadian) Desoto is about as original as you can get. The fuel bowl at my carby contains a porcelain filter. I've tried to keep my 51 truck original. Disregard the rubber pipe to the left of screen, it is the over flow for the vent which I haven't chopped off yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 The unit at the carb is an actual fuel filter; and the one built into the fuel pump is just a sediment bowl (but it has a screen in it). I'm not sure about what Roberts sells but I plan to get an in-line glass bowl fuel filter like shown in the pic below. Danchuk mfg in Santa Ana, Ca (www.danchuk.com) has repro AC filters for chevys, but they're pretty much universal and could be plumbed to fit any fuel line. I've heard one of these can be ordered at Napa too, but haven't tried that route yet.ggdad, if you're doing a CAD dwg of that heat shiels, could I get a copy of the pattern? I need to make me one of those! I sent the heat shield info in to Bob so he can post it on the Knowledge section of the site. I made the flat for .048 CRS, but it'd be darn close to proper if someone wanted to use .060 aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 This carb in the first pic has a governor under it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 I sent the heat shield info in to Bob so he can post it on the Knowledge section of the site. I made the flat for .048 CRS, but it'd be darn close to proper if someone wanted to use .060 aluminum. fruits of my measuring (BTW, the files are in the Pilot's Knowledge area): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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