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Posted

Yeah I know get your mind out of the gutter;) My question is what method do you use to remove paint? Up until last week I used a 36 grit disc on my grinder. I was at a fellow restorer's house and learned that he never uses a grinding disc to remove paint. The Eastwood co. has this paint stripping system. It has a black pad like a sponge and a finishing pad. I used it today and it is amazing. The metal does not heat up at all also the metal is as smooth as glass. I have not used the finishing disc yet. I only could do the trunk and some of the quarter panel however it is really nice. I even went over some of the area that was grinded with the 36 grit disc and it smoothed that area out as well. I am going over and try to do some more Saturday( I need time to recoperate) I think the process is going to slow So I need to get involved a bit. Plus I miss my car. I like sitting in the back of the Stude and read the paper:) Yeah I know Sounds corny right:rolleyes: What can you do.

Posted

Don't feel too bad about sitting in the Studebaker reading the paper, I have more than once sat in the Plymouth while the tv is on in the garage watching it with a can of suds during the winter months:):)

Posted

razor blade if original older paint..if newer paint you may be better off with a chemical stripper...once stripped of paint from surface..quick DA of area will prep panel for what ever repair, prep needed...using any method that produces sparks is removing metal for no good reason..it makes me cringe to see this method being used..lots of body shops do this method as it is fast but just remember..if they owned that car they would do it another way..any surface rust can be removed/converted with acid and my choice is phosphoric...

as a word of caution..on chemical removal of paint....I do recommend small areas done and not try to do an entire panel at one time..control the chemical and prevent it from getting inside doors and seams that you will not be able to completely remove the chemical through a neutralizing wash/agent..one does not need dried chemical reactivated by a rain storm or car wash to cause new finish being ruined..kind of like the ole brazing rod that grows hair a bit later and yes it does if not fully cleaned properly..be very careful and super clean and neutralize the flux on these rods..it will break your heart..

Posted

Rodney,

In the few years I've been stripping Pigiron I've tried a number of methods, and the cleanest (a relative term) I've found is aircraft paint stripper. It's easily twice the price of the stuff you can buy at Wally World but works twice as fast using a lot less product, which makes the per use cost lower. It has the advantage of being non-flammable and there are several people on this forum who say that if it's non-flammable it's junk, but these are the same folks who don't think balancing an engine is important so I advise you to ignore their advice until you try it yourself. It's also water soluble so getting rid of any residue is as simple as washing it with soapy water and a soft brush.

There were five or six coats of paint on my '48 Plymouth when I began the task and I've rarely needed to use more than two applications to get rid of it all. Although I have tried razor blades with great success when removing the dead paint I find it easier to use a 1 1\2" putty knife with a sharp edge because you get better control and should it get dull (which doesn't happen very often) a few quick passes with a light file gets it back in good shape. I don't recall the brand of remover I use because it's been two years since I bought it but if you're interested I'll dig it out of the trunk tomorrow and check.

-Randy

Posted
Don't feel too bad about sitting in the Studebaker reading the paper' date=' I have more than once sat in the Plymouth while the tv is on in the garage watching it with a can of suds during the winter months:):)[/quote']

This reminds me of how back home we had this television that would quit working when it got warmed up. So it sat in the garage on the work bench in front of the car, and we would sit out there in the winter & watch TV. Oh, and it had no sound, so we had another old TV that had sound, but no picture. That one sat beside the car, and we would roll one window down on that side so we could hear it. This only worked in the winter, of course, be we didn't have time to watch TV in the summer, anyway. I had forgotten about this until I read your comments here....

Posted

I used a product called BIX I got from Home Depot. Workd pretty well and was quite a bit les expensive than the stuff used by the general industry. It comes in twoo types a brush on paste and a spray on deal that you apply with a hand sprayer and let sit for a while then razor off.

Come in a white and orange can. I mistakenly bought a small can of the brush on paste and it did not work as well as the spray on stuff. Follow the directions withthe spray on stuff, it works and was about 7 buck for the large container.

http://www.bixmfg.com/

Posted

I see, You must remember that I am only stripping the botoom half of the car. The top half and mid level strip of the car is the two tone effect. I can not use a chemical because it will run and that means devastation. The reason I posted this stripping disc is because it produces no HEAT. When you are done The metal is clean and smooth as glass. I have used chemical, aircraft remover. I used it on the Plymouth. There was a reason, It had 6 coats of different paint on it. The Stude only has two. This Disc also cuts the old body putty.

The reason I am repainting this car is because after a couple of years from it's restoration it started to bubble in some places. I used chemical when I first did this car. It was my first experence with using chemical. I was told that I did not clean the area. I remember washing the metal down with dishwashing liquid and steel wool. I used hot water. This time I am using the disc and I will wash the metal down with baking soda. The final wash will be with paint thinner or something that will insure that I have the metal clean. What would you guy's use to wash the metal?

Posted
I see, You must remember that I am only stripping the botoom half of the car. The top half and mid level strip of the car is the two tone effect. I can not use a chemical because it will run and that means devastation. The reason I posted this stripping disc is because it produces no HEAT. When you are done The metal is clean and smooth as glass. I have used chemical, aircraft remover. I used it on the Plymouth. There was a reason, It had 6 coats of different paint on it. The Stude only has two. This Disc also cuts the old body putty.

The reason I am repainting this car is because after a couple of years from it's restoration it started to bubble in some places. I used chemical when I first did this car. It was my first experence with using chemical. I was told that I did not clean the area. I remember washing the metal down with dishwashing liquid and steel wool. I used hot water. This time I am using the disc and I will wash the metal down with baking soda. The final wash will be with paint thinner or something that will insure that I have the metal clean. What would you guy's use to wash the metal?

The problem with steel wool is it is saturated with machining oil, via the process by which it is originally made. As such, I don't use steel wool on any painting process. I would suggest using a "scotch brite" pad or similar. From my experience, if the metal is too smooth, the primer / paint has a hard time adhering. I would suggest talking to the body shop that you are going to use to paint your car and following their suggestions regarding preparation. Over the years, I have painted several hundred cars and paint failures can involve many, many factors...the process can be very complicated and expensive.

Posted

Rodney;

If you like I can send you a film clip of me stripping. I tried to post it on photobucket but (not sure why) the administrators rejected it. Are there other sites you can recommend where I can post this?:eek:

Posted
Rodney;

If you like I can send you a film clip of me stripping. I tried to post it on photobucket but (not sure why) the administrators rejected it. Are there other sites you can recommend where I can post this?:eek:[/quote You could use to boo the birds:D:D

Posted

Thanks Don............I just had breakfast....................lol.......trying to picture you stripping..............lol........nah.......not good.........lol....................andyd.

Posted

You know Don I was looking for your Wicked post much sooner , I'm with Andy I had to put my pie away:eek: Oldstovebolt I found out later that using steel wool could hurt my project. I used it extensively on the 40 Plymouth I must have been living right because it came out spectacular. I was lucky. I do use scotchbrite now and it works better and lasts longer. I want to show you all what the metal looks like when using these eastwood pads. I went over today and did a little work o the trunk. I hope to get this thing stripped all the way by next week.

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Posted

Around here this is the time when everybody is working on thier projects. A good friend of mine is working on his 47 Ford convertible. He is a master retorer and does all his own work and some of mine. He got this two years ago and is just starting on it. The floors are in great shape being a convertible and all. They cleaned out the inside last night and WOW not much damage at all. He is the one that showed me the disc and how good it was.

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Posted
Oh my. please NO!:eek: Great way to lose weight:mad: I just put my twinkies down.

Speaking of Twinkies, they along with all other good stuff has just been pulled from all the local school vending machines. Replaced with health bars and other crap.

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